1st post! Ishapore 2a1 sporter restoration

Hello Milsurps!

This is my first thread here, and I hope I fit right in. If you catch me doing something I shouldn't, please slap me on the head with a strongly worded reply, but also let me know how to correct what I did wrong.

I recently acquired an Ishapore 2a1 sporter. Wanted an enfield in 7.62 and wanted a sporter to give some TLC to. The barrel, receiver, bolt body, rear sight leaf, and magazine all match.

Dumb things I did:

• Not firing the rifle before proceeding with teardown
• Not reading articles, books, and posts here before I started

My plan is to:

• Fit new fore stock
• fit nose cap
• fit forward handguard
• re-fix butt stock
• fit butt pad better
• refinish metal to protect it (probably parkerize)
• obviously get as many parts as needed to restore to military configuration

Here is the rifle I got:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...kij3hupb-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...rtlaf3gq-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...hn5urkbw-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1rhumfuy-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...i3v2xgc4-1.jpg

************************************************** *************************

Work has begun:

Broke the rifle down to all the bits. Couldn't remove the rear sight base, but was able to remove the front sight base and key.

Removed the remaining paint patches (mixed paint by the way) and de-blued the parts:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...sadzim2b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...txu3z1ab-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...irvc9ojx-1.jpg

While I was waiting on the fore stock and other parts, I decided to tackle the butt stock:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...dkfc7w06-1.jpg

Will be using a piece of walnut from the shortened, crached, and poorly fitted fore stock:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...d7nnshzs-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...xwusqjrj-1.jpg

New Fore stock arrived. I didn't notice a problem right away, and began fitting at the same time as trying to understand how to properly fit it.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...jhn1rhw0-1.jpg

after getting it on the receiver and then watching some videos I realized that I got lucky. The sides are apparently not required to hug the receiver, so my gaps are not all that horrible, but ugly.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...mlypxf5f-1.jpg

And then I see this!!! The stock is warped!!!

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...gwmtwges-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...d0ghvhxa-1.jpg

Off to steaming the stock:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...x8fjqqwy-1.jpg

And reverse twisting using leather shims under the opposite edges of the stock.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...fainmqkp-1.jpg

Worked!!! But the nose cap machining was actually done on the twisted stock, so the holes are off axis.... This makes the nose cap sit nicely while not secured, but the moment you put the screws in, it cants by 20-25 degrees. Here it is loosely placed on the forestock.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...anas4m7y-1.jpg

Butt stock re-patched:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...mjdw15ti-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...muq2onye-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ngyglkyj-1.jpg

Butt plate fitted a little better:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...dfvfxswn-1.jpg

As I learned, the wood was supposed to be removed from the back side of the fore stock, so I patched up the recesses inside that I prematurely cut (not knowing how to fit the fore stock correctly)

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...blfgxskz-1.jpg

Getting pretty good contact on the back side now, and the fore stock now fits tightly onto the receiver.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...u4b2ant5-1.jpg

Starting to shape:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...xevwr2lm-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1kcui79t-1.jpg

Constantly checking barrel alignment and making sure (according to the now-seen videos) the barrels floats where it should and rests where it should.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ntcevod0-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...atds0h8f-1.jpg

Nose cap slips right on...

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...pqhebbh6-1.jpg

Alignment is not bad:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...nwl2auyw-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...qghidlks-1.jpg

Got some of the gun oil and grease out of the stock using the calcium carbonate / acetone mix

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...rbunmvje-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0ekorl3e-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...kqklyeup-1.jpg

I think I understand how the receiver should be bedded, so...

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ytd9azb7-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...yhr8ak8j-1.jpg

Shaping the fore stock to match the receiver and trigger guard (yes, after making sure the trigger guard is properly straightened and has good contact).

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...m3kznckv-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...aojygoce-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...4wc2h9ft-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...bcrm6owp-1.jpg

And now, I am bedding the nose cap... Since I had to change the direction of the screw holes, and force the nose cap to sit correctly... Will update when that is done.


So... Please let me know what I am doing wrong, etc. (I have another fore stock on hand).

Thank you in advance.
MV.

Welcome to Milsurps. Nice Job. Thanks for sharing. Not many are willing to put the time and effort into restoring a sporter.
(I'd guess Captain Laidler will suggest to you that the oak pegs be put into the repair on the butt adjoining the butt plate:) )
Good luck with the next stages.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Seaspriter

Welcome to Milsurps. Nice Job. Thanks for sharing. Not many are willing to put the time and effort into restoring a sporter.
(I'd guess Captain Laidler will suggest to you that the oak pegs be put into the repair on the butt adjoining the butt plate:) )
Good luck with the next stages.

---

Thank you. I have some pegs on the inside of the repair, as in, I drilled both the patch and the stock, and when gluing together put the pegs into respective holes. Meanwhile I was thinking how if those pegs were "threaded" they would probably hold even better, but I roughed them up nicely so there should be plenty of Grab-n-hold.

Great article and photos.
IMO very good wood work/craftsmanship.
Ed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ed skeels

Great article and photos.
IMO very good wood work/craftsmanship.
Ed

---

Thank you. Still not sure if I will be using this forestock or going with the other one I have. Not happy with the nose cap.

Also, can someone please confirm whether the buttstock should have a slight gap between the receiver socket and the corresponding shoulder on the buttstock, or if I should get the buttstock "married" to the receiver better? I mean u could try and make sure that the head of the stock contacts the receiver at the same time as the "shoulder" contacts the socket wall edge.

There should be a gap between the butt and the butt socket when the stock bolt is done up what we call 'xxxxing tight'. We say about 1/16". This is because the butt is seated tight within the taper of the butt socket and not along that edge..

I know the more expert will disagree with me on this..... but......... There are two types of wood. Wood that HAS warped and wood that hasn't warped - YET! If your fore-end has warped then you can steam and oil and all these other things but it WILL revert back to how the natural tendency of the wood takes it. Fit a non warped one while it's apart! If you refit a warped/straightened fore-end you will never trust the rifles accuracy again. Just my opinion based on nothing more positive than experience

We peg our wood patches to illustrate that they have been done properly, by Armourers and that they'll last for 100 years

Brian at BDL in SC has superb UK Military phosphating facilities. I bet he could set your bolt and CHS up while it's there

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Brian at BDL in SC has superb UK Military phosphating facilities

---

Brian Dick phosphate two Lee Enfields for me, with superb results. Excellent quality -- first class.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

There should be a gap between the butt and the butt socket when the stock bolt is done up what we call 'xxxxing tight'. We say about 1/16". This is because the butt is seated tight within the taper of the butt socket and not along that edge..

I know the more expert will disagree with me on this..... but......... There are two types of wood. Wood that HAS warped and wood that hasn't warped - YET! If your fore-end has warped then you can steam and oil and all these other things but it WILL revert back to how the natural tendency of the wood takes it. Fit a non warped one while it's apart! If you refit a warped/straightened fore-end you will never trust the rifles accuracy again. Just my opinion based on nothing more positive than experience

We peg our wood patches to illustrate that they have been done properly, by Armourers and that they'll last for 100 years

Brian at BDL in SC has superb UK Military phosphating facilities. I bet he could set your bolt and CHS up while it's there

---

Thank you very much for the information. I am no expert in anything, so no arguments here. ;)

I started fitting the new forestock last night. Got it fitting very tight, realized that its inletting will not let it sit high enough on the receiver. I haven't really checked where it makes contact yet, but by the feel of it I think it is at the barrel/receiver joint.

In any case, the new forestock is warped in the opposite direction to the first one , and also bent at the same spot.

So, I guess this one is also junk, based on what you just posted. Do you by chance have a source for better forestock for 7,62?

Thank you for confirming the buttstock fit. I will make sure to leave a gap.

Does CHS mean check head space?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Seaspriter

Brian Dick phosphate two Lee Enfields for me, with superb results. Excellent quality -- first class.

---

Thank you. I will certainly contact him.

Well, since all the forestocks I have are warped and/or bent (or in the case of this one, having been warped before), I decided to experiment with color matching. The buttstock on this was was pretty dark, and my handguards (front is now walnut as far as I can tell) were pretty light. I have a DP walnut set coming, and will see if the wood is good enough to use from that.

In any case, here is what I ended up with:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...xbdgb1tw-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...rf8bucco-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...imxjlvkj-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...dkfo59tc-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...qw1vpvmh-1.jpg

And there is that butt stock gap:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...muunvpcb-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0oh2nhyp-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...zy6jvaeb-1.jpg

So, I just got a new butt stock today. And fitted it. Very tight, with a 1/16" gap between the socket and the shoulder of the stock. Tried to put the bolt in as far as it will go and it only gets to about half way into the socket. With the old stock it sat just under the wall that faces the forestock. I took the new stock off and just tried to see how far the bolt will go in the stock itself to exclude possible misalignment issues with the receiver...

It went as far as before. Or not far enough. The tip of the bolt gets to about 1/4" short of being even with the head of the buttstock.

Could this bolt have been shortened?

peter, a complete novice question here. with a twisted forend, would it be acceptable to plane down the high side, build up the low side, plug and re-drill the mount holes for the centre spring, nosecap and reseat the nosecap square. aka leave the wood twisted but re align/ true up the areas it contacts other parts of the rifle?

i understand that replacing the forend would be the army way, but over here even well used (ROUGH) full wood forends sell for around $250+ each on that auction site. plus they aren't making any more.

basically the thought of scrapping one full wood forend let alone two makes me cringe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by henry r

peter, a complete novice question here. with a twisted forend, would it be acceptable to plane down the high side, build up the low side, plug and re-drill the mount holes for the centre spring, nosecap and reseat the nosecap square. aka leave the wood twisted but re align/ true up the areas it contacts other parts of the rifle?

i understand that replacing the forend would be the army way, but over here even well used (ROUGH) full wood forends sell for around $250+ each on that auction site. plus they aren't making any more.

basically the thought of scrapping one full wood forend let alone two makes me cringe.

---

I have actually seen only the new reproduction or new old stock for that much money. I bought both of mine from Numrich. They are coming warped though (based on the two I received).

Just FYI, I did force the nosecap into position on the first stock, and bedded it, repositioned the screw holes and bedded the screws, so not I have properly positioned holes.

But I would like to do it right. So until I find one thst is not warped, I will experiment, knowing full well that it isn't the right way, and that the wood may find its way back to its desired warped state in the future.

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. Linseed Oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Seaspriter

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. Linseed Oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

---

Thank you very much for this. I didn't think keeping it "locked up" for that long was needed. But I do believe the more the better. I will try this on the second forestock.

So, from what I understand, do whatever cleaning needed, so that if the wood is subjected to liquids, it is done before it us straightened, then, steam and clamp down in whatever fashion needed to straighten, let rest for a couple of weeks as it slowly loses moisture, then oil liberally to lock in condition.

I guess dunking the wood in hot linseed oil would ensure deep and thorough penetration that is consistent throughout. What would be a good alternative if one doesn't have a vat large enough for this? Also, I don't think using BLO for this would work due to added dryers, but I may be wrong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MosinVirus

I guess dunking the wood in hot linseed oil would ensure deep and thorough penetration that is consistent throughout. What would be a good alternative if one doesn't have a vat large enough for this? Also, I don't think using BLO for this would work due to added dryers, but I may be wrong.

---

Here's the easiest, cheapest way to do this:

1. Obtain a "crock pot" (or similar) that has a heating control that will keep the liquid in the hot (but not boiling) range. (there's probably one in your kitchen)
2. Get a piece of PVC 3" pipe (2" might fit -- check the measurements) cut to about 3' long. Screw or glue a cap to one end.
3. Put the pipe, cap side down, vertically into the crock pot, then fill the crock pot with water, and turn up heat. Tie down the pipe so it is stable.
4. Put the fore end into the pipe.
5. Fill the pipe with boiled linseed oil.
6. Put a meat thermometer in the oil to check temperature.
7. Let this continue for 1-2 days.
8. Remove the fore end and let the oil drip into a pan until it stops.
9. Then burnish the surface with rapid motion with an old towel to remove excess and help polymerize the surface.
10. Don't put it in the sun to dry as that could actually warp the wood.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Seaspriter

Here's the easiest, cheapest way to do this:

1. Obtain a "crock pot" (or similar) that has a heating control that will keep the liquid in the hot (but not boiling) range. (there's probably one in your kitchen)
2. Get a piece of PVC 3" pipe (2" might fit -- check the measurements) cut to about 3' long. Screw or glue a cap to one end.
3. Put the pipe, cap side down, vertically into the crock pot, then fill the crock pot with water, and turn up heat. Tie down the pipe so it is stable.
4. Put the fore end into the pipe.
5. Fill the pipe with boiled linseed oil.
6. Put a meat thermometer in the oil to check temperature.
7. Let this continue for 1-2 days.
8. Remove the fore end and let the oil drip into a pan until it stops.
9. Then burnish the surface with rapid motion with an old towel to remove excess and help polymerize the surface.
10. Don't put it in the sun to dry as that could actually warp the wood.

---

That is some really good info. Thank you,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MosinVirus

I have actually seen only the new reproduction or new old stock for that much money. I bought both of mine from Numrich. They are coming warped though (based on the two I received).

---

lee enfields and their parts are more expensive in australia. in a way it's funny as they sold tens of thousands off surplus back in the day.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Seaspriter

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. Linseed Oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

---

I am going to try this on the second forestock. It has been steamed, now clamped and will remain there for a while. Meanwhile I will be finishing what I already have and figuring out a way to get that oil setup you mentioned.

Well, since I am playing with what I have now, and seeing how the handguards meet the forestock, I am now questioning whether they should be blended.
Can someone let me know if the wood pieces should align on all sides with each other? I started shaping to align already seeing how the search for good wood will continue, but wanted to check anyway.

Please let me know. Also, what should I do with the butt stock bolt? Or rather with the Butt Stock? Currently, the bolt screws in, but by the time the bolt head collapses the spring washer, the bolt only goes about half way (if that) into the socket. Is that enough of a grab?

great job keep going

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mmppres

great job keep going

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I most certainly plan to. ;)

Well, I ran into a situation where the new butt stock color (unstained) is much darker than the forestock and handguards (also unstained). However, the DP buttstock with a flat browne Buttplate matches color nicely...

So... do I use the DP stock with a flat Buttplate or go with a darker new buttstock with the cupped Buttplate?

As its a 2A1 I'd stick to what it was issued with, I quite like the flat buttplate, Its one of few things that doesn't look too out of place, if you compare it with MG cars when they stuck a big black bumper on did away with the spoked wheels.....

Think its time I got mine out of the cabinet and continue with its restoration, although mine was a full rifle, like your fore-ends mine is wrapped also but doesn't affect the downloads I put through it, it came to me in a sorry looking state but after the black paint was removed and the varnish it didn't loo too bad, the problem with mine was nearly every thread was stripped and had gunge, bits of paper etc to help lock the screws..... thats why it went in the back of the cabinet.

Price seems to have crept up though in the UK, maybe due to calibre ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigduke6

As its a 2A1 I'd stick to what it was issued with, I quite like the flat buttplate, Its one of few things that doesn't look too out of place, if you compare it with MG cars when they stuck a big black bumper on did away with the spoked wheels.....

Think its time I got mine out of the cabinet and continue with its restoration, although mine was a full rifle, like your fore-ends mine is wrapped also but doesn't affect the downloads I put through it, it came to me in a sorry looking state but after the black paint was removed and the varnish it didn't loo too bad, the problem with mine was nearly every thread was stripped and had gunge, bits of paper etc to help lock the screws..... thats why it went in the back of the cabinet.

Price seems to have crept up though in the UK, maybe due to calibre ?

---

Thank you. So, are you saying you would use the flat brass buttplate and lighter color stock that matches, or the darker stock with the cupped buttplate?

Fit the 2A1 butt plate to the butt that is the desired colour.

I have been meaning to respond to this thread for some time, excellent build, and an interesting project.

Since this is a Ishapore 2A1, which makes it a less common variant of the Lee Enfield, I would do everything to embrace that uniqueness, try to make this rifle stand out in a crowd or at the range by keeping everything as Ishy as possible.

That as issued look will catch more than one person, with the little differences between it and a typical GRI No.1

I'd just do what any Indian EME Armourer woukld be doing and that's follow GSimmons common sense advice. Just fit the correct butt plate to the best available butt! What we Armourers would do if the colour match of the woodwork was wildly mis-matched (look....., we wouldn't give a toss about slight colour matching believe me) would be to toss the lot into a warm stain bath for the night.

But the 7.62 No1 is a bit of Enfield history so keep it ARMY standard. Army standard isn't show queen or concourse but battle ready

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

I'd just do what any Indian EME Armourer woukld be doing and that's follow GSimmons common sense advice. Just fit the correct butt plate to the best available butt! What we Armourers would do if the colour match of the woodwork was wildly mis-matched (look....., we wouldn't give a toss about slight colour matching believe me) would be to toss the lot into a warm stain bath for the night.

But the 7.62 No1 is a bit of Enfield history so keep it ARMY standard. Army standard isn't show queen or concourse but battle ready

---

Alright, so I will go ahead and see if there is enough of a profile left in the DP butt to fit the 2a1 cupped buttplate to it.

Here is how the wood looks right now (the butt stock is not tightened down with a bolt. Just pushed in there with considerable force):

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1cd1muwt-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...wgezangw-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...hii608ue-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...agzdmvae-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...hicrxic3-1.jpg

Here is the first warped forestock that I had to bed the nose cap to (with a few coats of oil), the DP forestock above it, the bent handguard (non-walnut) with a few coats of oil, etc...

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...w0gxfdka-1.jpg

You can see the Newly manufactured buttstock in the corner of this image:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...glfkxj00-1.jpg

Here is how the DP buttstock matches the rest of wood:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...kajlu5gr-1.jpg

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gsimmons

Fit the 2A1 butt plate to the butt that is the desired colour.

---

Thank you. I will see if I can do that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sentryduty

I have been meaning to respond to this thread for some time, excellent build, and an interesting project.

Since this is a Ishapore 2A1, which makes it a less common variant of the Lee Enfield, I would do everything to embrace that uniqueness, try to make this rifle stand out in a crowd or at the range by keeping everything as Ishy as possible.

That as issued look will catch more than one person, with the little differences between it and a typical GRI No.1

---

Thank you. Now that I have seen the replies, I will be fitting a cupped butt to the DP stock.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MosinVirus

Thank you. So, are you saying you would use the flat brass buttplate and lighter color stock that matches, or the darker stock with the cupped buttplate?

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Post 23, I was meaning use the 2A1 butt plate...... as that is what was fitted, flat being the face that fits the butt.

In the process of cutting the cupped Buttplate into the DP buttstock. Trap door doesn't align with the hole in the stock. But oh well.

The DP stock has been cut for the cupped buttplate and was re-shaped (it was much wider/thicker). This picture was taken after it was just oiled, so it is very light in the image, but it got darker as the oil got deeper.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...xmd43rxc-1.jpg

Hello all, and especially Mr. Laidler,

As I was checking out my bolt to receiver fit, I noticed that with a bolt and bolt head in the receiver I get a lot of play forward and backward. It seems to be that this should never be the case, so here are some pictures of how much room I get between the lug and the receiver when I push the bolt forward and when I let go.

I am pretty sure that the absence of extractor has nothing to do with it, but I may be wrong.
This is just stripped bolt head and bolt body.

bolt moved forward as far as it goes:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...bv9rrs7d-1.jpg

Bolt at the front of play:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...nb4sg0ag-1.jpg

bolt at the rear of play:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...omcdl8mt-1.jpg

Lugs:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...jgdmwqws-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...kov7noza-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...8wp2jlre-1.jpg


Do I have a problem here?

No.... there will be slight play and more noticeable as you don't have the bolt assembled ( no striker etc ). In this state is a perfect opportunity to apply some engineering blue to the bolt lugs and see if they are equally contacting the shoulders of the body....... there is an article by Peter Laidler covering the fitting of a bolt head but covers this simple test to start with, (its one of a few things I do before stripping a rifle for restoration etc).

Link to Peters Article: http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...0boltheads.pdf


Its probably one of the rifles that I'd be more cautious with from the start, although mine was in an appalling state (Threads secured with bits of paper, card, gunge etc)

I don't know if this was done in service, or on the family kitchen table, but if the finish of these is anything to go by it does make you wonder........ the other thing is the calibre of these, was the previous owner or owners stoking up his home loads or using the same loads he uses in a modern target rifle ?

I,ve witnessed this although it was No4, the lad was trying to open the bolt with a hammer........

Big Duke is right. There IS a bit of forward movement of the bolt when it is stripped. This is how we test for the correct bearing of the bolt locking lugs (read article). With the bolt assembled you won't realise this because the extractor acts to cam the bolt rearwards

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bigduke6

No.... there will be slight play and more noticeable as you don't have the bolt assembled ( no striker etc ). In this state is a perfect opportunity to apply some engineering blue to the bolt lugs and see if they are equally contacting the shoulders of the body....... there is an article by Peter Laidler covering the fitting of a bolt head but covers this simple test to start with, (its one of a few things I do before stripping a rifle for restoration etc).

Link to Peters Article: http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...0boltheads.pdf


Its probably one of the rifles that I'd be more cautious with from the start, although mine was in an appalling state (Threads secured with bits of paper, card, gunge etc)

I don't know if this was done in service, or on the family kitchen table, but if the finish of these is anything to go by it does make you wonder........ the other thing is the calibre of these, was the previous owner or owners stoking up his home loads or using the same loads he uses in a modern target rifle ?

I,ve witnessed this although it was No4, the lad was trying to open the bolt with a hammer........

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Big Duke is right. There IS a bit of forward movement of the bolt when it is stripped. This is how we test for the correct bearing of the bolt locking lugs (read article). With the bolt assembled you won't realise this because the extractor acts to cam the bolt rearwards

---

Thank you both. I panic-ordered a bolt body and bolt head, but I figure I could always use spare parts.
I will certainly read the article and perform the test you mentioned to see if the contact is even on both lugs.

Thank you again for being a part of the forum and sharing your knowledge.

EDIT: Just read the article. WOW!!! Great information with a lot of detail. I will do some checking on my bolt for sure.

Just wanted to say thanks for documenting this - I'm deeply impressed by your skills; this has been an extremely informative thread!

I wend ahead and started checking my bolt against the article written by Peter. Once again, great thanks for making this information available.

I don't have any gauges, so for now I decided to check everything else.

Upon closer examination of the Lug contact areas I have discovered that both sides of the receiver engagement surfaces are peened/deformed. However, as expected I found the lugs do contact the receiver evenly (no surprise since the lugs peened the receiver). I used layout black that transfers on contact, applied very little on both engagement surfaces of the receiver using a dry brush, put the bolt in while forcing it forward, and then moved it back and forth when in locked position (as per the article)

Both engagement surfaces peened:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...gda5tzfs-1.jpg

Looking at the short lug on the bolt, I found peening and deformation on both sides, which makes me suspect the bolt body is softer than it should be.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ej9n1chc-1.jpg

Then I proceeded to check for cocking piece lift when the bolt head is fully screwed on. No lift or not enough lift. Also noticed that the cocking piece was actually deformed from slamming into the back of the bolt body.

Here is an image of the contact when the bolt head is fully screwed on, and the cocking piece is in "fired" position. You can see the deformation on the inside corner of the "L" shape

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...xwdsqe4z-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...vrznqwqx-1.jpg

The striker is screwed in all the way to be "level" with the back of the cocking piece

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...6tqstx8r-1.jpg

Protrusion (I haven't measured it because I would first like to figure out the more important things).

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...3yoa37ql-1.jpg

Here is how the bolt head tennon face looks. Doesn't seem like it was machined, and there is definite evidence of peening (again, peening), so that may explain why the cocking piece doesn't lift off enough.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...xmein8vu-1.jpg

Here is me experimenting...

Turn the striker out one turn,

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...akdwupis-1.jpg

And, we have lift (obviously) when the bolt head is screwed in all the way. I start to feel contact with the striker sleeve 3/4 turn before the bolt head stops.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...i1utg7jz-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...qeswpknd-1.jpg

I figure that the protrusion shouldn't really change since the Bolt head tennon is preventing the striker from coming forward more.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...4cybx2te-1.jpg

As before, I would appreciate any feedback and direction as to how to proceed. At this point I have a new bolt head, cocking piece, bolt body, striker and striker spring coming.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MosinVirus

It went as far as before. Or not far enough. The tip of the bolt gets to about 1/4" short of being even with the head of the buttstock. Could this bolt have been shortened?

---

I presume that the "new" buttstock is not, in fact, ex-factory, but also a reclaimed component from a stripped-down rifle. In which case, there may well be a (spring) washer of some sort firmly stuck down the hole. I have experienced this on a No.III butt. If you fail to spot it and add a second washer on top, the stock bolt is going to be too short. Been there, done that, had to make a tight hook on a piece of steel rod to hook into the washer and get it out - together with a fossilized leather washer!

Otherwise, you're doing well. Keep it up!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick

I presume that the "new" buttstock is not, in fact, ex-factory, but also a reclaimed component from a stripped-down rifle. In which case, there may well be a (spring) washer of some sort firmly stuck down the hole. I have experienced this on a No.III butt. If you fail to spot it and add a second washer on top, the stock bolt is going to be too short. Been there, done that, had to make a tight hook on a piece of steel rod to hook into the washer and get it out - together with a fossilized leather washer!

Otherwise, you're doing well. Keep it up!

---

Thank you. I will try and check it out. Currently I can only see a flat steel washer in there, but I will try digging and see if something else is under it.

Your firing pin protrusion looks to be on the high side. It should be .040 low and .050 high. I'd worry about the hardening in the locking recesses in the body being worn through. If that's the case, it's ZF. Most know my opinion on the RFI 2A/2A1. The barrel may be clean looking but that doesn't mean they haven't been shot to death, literally. The 7.62 caliber stresses the body to it absolute limitations.

Sorry, are you saying that the receiver is basically done?

I don't think that he's saying that at all. What he's saying as I read it is that it needs to be thoroughly re-set up and gauged. If it conforms to all of the gauge limits or can be brought back to conform to the limits then all is well. Same as any Lee rifle really. But that firing pin protrusion indicates something amiss to me. There's only one way that you can get FPP like that and that's by taking metal off the tenon - that's the threaded part of the bolt head.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

I don't think that he's saying that at all. What he's saying as I read it is that it needs to be thoroughly re-set up and gauged. If it conforms to all of the gauge limits or can be brought back to conform to the limits then all is well. Same as any Lee rifle really. But that firing pin protrusion indicates something amiss to me. There's only one way that you can get CHS like that and that's by taking metal off the tenon - that's the threaded part of the bolt head.

---

Thank you Peter,

I have discussed with Brian sending the rifle and bolt to BDL for inspection.

I also got a new bolt head and bolt body from Numrich. Still waiting for a new striker. This is just to be able to have parts on hand if some of the originals are deemed non-usable.

The new Bolt Head has a smaller firing pin opening, and a longer tenon. The firing pin protrudes only about half of the amount it does using the original bolt head. I also get cocking piece lift using the new bolt head with the striker fully screwed into it. However, the bolt head currently doesn't turn in all the way to align with the long lug on the bold body. I assume it is better to remove material from the bolt body face to allow the bolt head to turn in to align.

Well, I did take the rifle to my local smith and told him what the correct gauge information is (provided by Brian at BDL), and my bolt closes on No-go gauge.

So now, the search for a longer bolt head starts.

Does anyone have a chart of bolt head sizes for no2 rifles? Are the sizes different from no1 rifles?

Thank you in advance.

On the basis that the face of the bolt head doesn't wear away but bolt locking lugs do, I'd be prepared to try a new bolt first. But your bolt head that is allowing approx 4mm of firing pin protrusion (FPP) is useless. So it's try a new bolt and bolt head in your case.

I'm suprised that a US gun smith would have the CHS gauges for an Indian 7.62mm rifle. That said, if he knows the spec then a KNOWN gauge, gauged and calibrated in conjunction with a feeler gauge would sort-of suffice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

On the basis that the face of the bolt head doesn't wear away but bolt locking lugs do, I'd be prepared to try a new bolt first. But your bolt head that is allowing approx 4mm of firing pin protrusion (FPP) is useless. So it's try a new bolt and bolt head in your case

---

Thank you Peter,

Tried the new bolt body and bolt head. The new head is stamped with letter "s". This is the one thst closes on no-go gauge but snugly. The original bolt head closes on No-go +.003" so that one is really out of the question.

The new bolt head is .636" from face to tenon shoulder.

My smith recommended I try to find a head that is .642-.646" in length so that it puts me in a sweet spot for both 7.62x51 and .308

I am just not sure how the different sizes are identified and if they even go that far.

Per Brian's recommendation I will also get an unnumbered bolt body to see if it will give me more "meat" at the locking lugs.

Where could I get the largest/longest bolt head? Are there any places that would take the time to measure their stock?

Springfield Sporters used to offer new, unfitted bolt bodies for the SMLE. The ones I had were BSA manufacture if memory serves. That would be the place to start.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brian Dick

Springfield Sporters used to offer new, unfitted bolt bodies for the SMLE. The ones I had were BSA manufacture if memory serves. That would be the place to start.

---

Thank you Brian.

Do you know if there is a size chart available for the bolt heads? And are no2 bolt heads the same with no1?

You'll need to find a long SMLE bolt head and fit it properly. It's a measure and select fit process. No.4 bolt heads came in different lengths but the process is still a measure and select fit process. The measurements can vary greatly and don't necessarily coincide with the number stamped on that supposedly denotes the size.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brian Dick

You'll need to find a long SMLE bolt head and fit it properly. It's a measure and select fit process. No.4 bolt heads came in different lengths but the process is still a measure and select fit process. The measurements can vary greatly and don't necessarily coincide with the number stamped on that supposedly denotes the size.

---

Thank you. I called up Numrich, and asked them to send me 3 longest heads they can find, above 0.640".

Should unused bolt bodies and heads clock/index by default? If they underturn, do I remove metal from the cheaper part? If they overturn, can I use a properly sized steel shim?

I'll pass on my limited experience........ again. You need to start with a new bolt body first. Once the new bolt body has a perfect bearing fit - as per the detailed bolt fitting instructions - then you can set about trying to get CHS with different bolt heads. Bolt heads do not necessarily index with a new bolt and vice verca but they're pretty close. If the bolt head underturns then carefully machine a sliver of steel from the mating surface of the bolt head until the bolt head aligns exactly with the long locking column of the bolt when tightened up. This is the BEST option and ensures that the......... anyway. If it overturns a very small amount then so be it. You CANNOT under any circumstances use shims of any sort.

I am with Brian on this if the hard facing is cactus in the body then you are setting yourself up for a potential failure and the NATO round operates at a much higher pressure than the 303 probably around 14 - 16,000psi higher just my untrained eyes can see the burring on the lugs and how it has affected the lug recess in the body. Personally I would be wary and I guess there are those that will cane me and say its fine to shoot to which I would remark well and good as your not the bloke shooting it the owner is. I have become allot more cautious since an episode I had with a modern rifle let alone one that has been in India and probably of skeptical checks and balances.

Its your rig Mosin I know you have put allot of effort into this project but let others well versed in the lee enfields air their opinions and see what they say in the end your the one who is going to shoot it but from my point the bolt lugs and the peening in the body says to me it has had a very hard life your call.

.642 to .646 are pretty scarce fleabay has them but I have seen them go for hefty prices in the region of $120/AU

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

I'll pass on my limited experience........ again. You need to start with a new bolt body first. Once the new bolt body has a perfect bearing fit - as per the detailed bolt fitting instructions - then you can set about trying to get CHS with different bolt heads. Bolt heads do not necessarily index with a new bolt and vice verca but they're pretty close. If the bolt head underturns then carefully machine a sliver of steel from the mating surface of the bolt head until the bolt head aligns exactly with the long locking column of the bolt when tightened up. This is the BEST option and ensures that the......... anyway. If it overturns a very small amount then so be it. You CANNOT under any circumstances use shims of any sort.

---

Thank you Peter. I am by no means dismissing or undermining your instructions. I have two unnumbered new BSA bolt bodies on order, and three bolt heads from gunparts coming.

I will start with a bolt body and see how the locking lugs engage. Then stone the high spots (if any) to increase the engagement surface.

Once that is done I will start looking at the bolt heads. I will measure them first and see if I got lucky and got a long one in the order. I will not use shims (as you instructed). In case it underturns I will ask my smith to put it in a lathe and remove just enough material to make it turn in with perfect alignment with the long lug and be snug against the bolt body at the same time.

I will follow your instructions completely making sure the cocking piece lift is there and the firing pin protrusion is proper.

I am just ordering parts to have parts on hand and to be able to have somewhat a selection of parts to play with. Again, I will be following your procedure entirely and step by step. I don't mind having to spend a bit more money and ending up with more parts than I need.

Once again, I really appreciate all your help, and Brian's and everyone else's on this forum.

If I appeared to be jumping over steps, and dismissing in any way, that was not my intention. I do want to learn, and I do want to learn the right way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CINDERS

I am with Brian on this if the hard facing is cactus in the body then you are setting yourself up for a potential failure and the NATO round operates at a much higher pressure than the 303 probably around 14 - 16,000psi higher just my untrained eyes can see the burring on the lugs and how it has affected the lug recess in the body. Personally I would be wary and I guess there are those that will cane me and say its fine to shoot to which I would remark well and good as your not the bloke shooting it the owner is. I have become allot more cautious since an episode I had with a modern rifle let alone one that has been in India and probably of skeptical checks and balances.

Its your rig Mosin I know you have put allot of effort into this project but let others well versed in the lee enfields air their opinions and see what they say in the end your the one who is going to shoot it but from my point the bolt lugs and the peening in the body says to me it has had a very hard life your call.

.642 to .646 are pretty scarce fleabay has them but I have seen them go for hefty prices in the region of $120/AU

---

Thank you. I completely understand, and if there is no way to get this rifle to headspace correctly, and if Brian will accept to take a look at the rifle and says I shouldn't shoot it, I will abandon the project,

There’s man who sells receivers at our local gun shows for $20. Let me know if you need one. I might be able to get him down to $15 if he a lot of them. He strips the guns for parts and sells them on internet auction sits. There’s not much call for the receivers.

Just as a little aside, we don't know for sure whether this body (or receiver to you wild colonials over there) has been swaged. It's not clear to me from the photos or from dye marking evidence! But there's more. If the body HAS been swaged, then surely that swaging WOULD bring it into CHS. After all....., that's the purpose of swaging it!

Does it need a new crank, a new set of mains or a new block? That's the question. Time it was sent to a garage for an expert to have a look at.........

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Just as a little aside, we don't know for sure whether this body (or receiver to you wild colonials over there) has been swaged. It's not clear to me from the photos or from dye marking evidence! But there's more. If the body HAS been swaged, then surely that swaging WOULD bring it into CHS. After all....., that's the purpose of swaging it!

Does it need a new crank, a new set of mains or a new block? That's the question. Time it was sent to a garage for an expert to have a look at.........

---

Hi Peter,

What should I look for to see if it has been swaged? And how is swaging accomplished on the body (adopting your nomenclature ;) ) is that something Brian could do?

Thank you

---------- Post added at 04:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:46 PM ----------

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vincent

There’s man who sells receivers at our local gun shows for $20. Let me know if you need one. I might be able to get him down to $15 if he a lot of them. He strips the guns for parts and sells them on internet auction sits. There’s not much call for the receivers.

---

Does he have any 7,62 receivers?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MosinVirus

Does he have any 7,62 receivers?

---

I will ask him at the next gun show.

When someone swages something it's usually pretty obvious. I'm sure that the only other word for a swage is a bodge. It is a bit like that other well known bodge of 'ring punching'. They're a quick fix but nothing permanent and doomed to fail, quickly. Mechanical instructions try to make it sound technical using words like '.....gently swage the end to prevent.........'.
I'm not sure how you would swage a No1/SMLE body locking surfaces especially the inner/left hand side one!
Anyone could try to swage the locking surfaces but I can tell you that Brian definately wouldn't - and nor should you or anyone you know!

6 pages spent on this rifle that has achieved nothing apart from some 'new' wood. I suggest that it's time to let an expert assess it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

When someone swages something it's usually pretty obvious. I'm sure that the only other word for a swage is a bodge. It is a bit like that other well known bodge of 'ring punching'. They're a quick fix but nothing permanent and doomed to fail, quickly. Mechanical instructions try to make it sound technical using words like '.....gently swage the end to prevent.........'.
I'm not sure how you would swage a No1/SMLE body locking surfaces especially the inner/left hand side one!
Anyone could try to swage the locking surfaces but I can tell you that Brian definately wouldn't - and nor should you or anyone you know!

6 pages spent on this rifle that has achieved nothing apart from some 'new' wood. I suggest that it's time to let an expert assess it.

---

Thank you. I see no evidence of swaging, and now I understand that you wouldn't recommend it.
I get the point on not touching this thread until I have made some headway with the rifle.
Thank you for your help.

well, I am done for now. Simply because I am tired and still need to find a non-warped forestock. Yes, Mr. Laidler was right in saying warped wood will tend to go back to being warped. Exactly what happened here.
I did find a good bolt head to use with this rifle. Headspacing is good for .308 and 7.62x51.
Parkerizing came out grayer than I hoped, but it is ok for now. At least the metal is protected.

I did learn a lot from all of you, so thank you. And yes, I could have done a better job if I didn't spend time on things that eventually didn't work out, but I am stubborn and learn from my mistakes better than from listening to others (yes, I am dumb that way).

Here are some pics.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...fmeewegt-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0220nuhc-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...c4ee5zih-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...z2wyzn4r-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tqsjlxew-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...jufiurjr-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0rjhjjuv-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...hlgdfzzu-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...kdzow2zx-1.jpg

You better turn that lower band around before you get yelled at my someone more prominent! Screw heads face left lad! :)

Oops! Will do that. I was feeling very disappointed by the re-warped forestock and my mind went blank.

It looks very nice aesthetically. Well done

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

It looks very nice aesthetically. Well done

---

Thank you very much, sir. I was pretty unhappy with the re-warped stock, so you were absolutely right, it went back to where it wanted to be originally. The nose cap now contacts the front sight base on the left side, so I am very disappointed. Will be looking for new wood (unwarped).
So it has the looks, but I am not sure how well it will group. Will find out soon and report back.

It certainly has come a long way from the first pictures you posted. Very nice job. :thup::thup:

Certainly looks 100% better, nice job on the parkerizing too, I gather thats a Zinc based solution? Don't be disappointed either, I,m sure a few on here would be happy to give it a home.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vincent

It certainly has come a long way from the first pictures you posted. Very nice job. :thup::thup:

---

Thank you very much.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bigduke6

Certainly looks 100% better, nice job on the parkerizing too, I gather thats a Zinc based solution? Don't be disappointed either, I,m sure a few on here would be happy to give it a home.

---

Well, I ordered another forestock. Perhaps third one will be better. I am calling them tomorrow to make sure someone takes a look at it before it ships. And if it is not warped, I will simply fit the new one to everything else.

Meanwhile I will be taking it to the range soon and seeing what it can do. Will try to take video and pictures.

Oh, by the way, funny story. So I ordered a few bolt heads, and got the longer ones I asked for. One was so long that it didn't allow the bolt to close on .308 go gauge. And it was apparently swaged on the sides. Even though I removed that excess material it still wouldn't close on the go gauge. We then turned to the one down in size. Voila! Perfect size. Get it parkerized, I take the rifle home and assemble. Only to realize that the bolt head is machined off center. Meaning the face and head is at a 5 degree angle to the tenon. Maybe it was bent. Regardless, with a face at an angle I would be getting good contact with the back of the case... so scraped it. Luckily I had a third bolt head that was overturning just a slight amount, but when in place, it produced just the right amount of headspace. So that is why you see an unparkerized bolt head on the rifle.

What you have learned along the way Mosin will help you to get a new fore stock fitted in no time at all, from what it started as and finished as is testament to the good work you have done. But more than that you have listened to what was being said by those with the qualifications and years of practical experience & gained knowledge to assist you (Even if you were a bit stubborn) :p

As a quick lesson in life:
There is never a dumb question in life just a dumb answer, in my years of crane operating I have seen many a driver expound the fonts of knowledge only to come up short when the acid test happened and when things were going pear shaped.
In fact one guy who I had a history with because he white anted me wrecked a 110 ton American lattice crawler crane I watched the whole affair happen basically he left his boom pawls engaged with a heavy load and was walking it down hill with the load in front of him (Dead wrong), the crane got a bit tippy toe so he stopped put the load down over the side of the crane onto the ground forgot his pawls were in and placed the load on the deck.
By the time he realized boom spring back was going on and it was against the boom backstops A) he could not release the pawls jammed by boom pressure so he could not boom down he had actually boomed up beyond minimum radius a big NO NO** B) The resultant spring back onto the boom stops caused the boom to fail and fall backwards over the crane @200' of boom wrecked and the car body of the crane even the butt of the boom was bent over the car body.

I went to see him after the dust had settled asked what went wrong he fed me a load of b*llsh*t and then said " They wont sack me I am too good of a crane driver " thing was the new owners of that crane were coming down to see it from Perth not a nice sight their new brought crane. By the way they sacked "Hundreds and Thousands" (his nik) on the spot.

** Booming up beyond minimum radius in a lattice crane means the pennant ropes are not taking any load and you get a compressible load effect on the boom basically the boom can fail and concertina straight down**

I think you have done a stellar job MosinVirus.
It is a credit to your perseverance, many would have given up.:clap:

You have inspired me to continue with my M38 Swedish Mauser project, it too has a warped stock which needs replaced & the replacement needs plenty of work to get up to a decent standard. ;)

I sure did learn a lot. And the instruction given here was simply irreplaceable. I very much appreciate the sharing of this valuable information and couldn't have done half of what I was able to do on this project. I will consider this project in process until I can get everything right.

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kiwisteve

I think you have done a stellar job MosinVirus.
It is a credit to your perseverance, many would have given up.:clap:

You have inspired me to continue with my M38 Swedish Mauser project, it too has a warped stock which needs replaced & the replacement needs plenty of work to get up to a decent standard. ;)

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Thank you. I hope I will get it to be good even by my standards. New forestock on order. Hopefully that one will be straight.

The rifle looks top rate now...very nice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

The rifle looks top rate now...very nice.

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Thank you. Hope it shoots well too. Will find out soon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigduke6

Certainly looks 100% better, nice job on the parkerizing too, I gather thats a Zinc based solution? Don't be disappointed either, I,m sure a few on here would be happy to give it a home.

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This is a manganese solution from Brownells.

Another update.

Took the rifle to the range. Here is a video: https://youtu.be/etmZAs3kgQY

Recap:

• Front sight on it is -045, and currently it shoots about 18-20" high. The stock and nosecap could be contributing, but I did order 060, 045, 030 and 015 sight blades.
• Got a new forestock and voila, this one is straight. But it is soaked in some preservative like gun oil, and only the front of the stock, which is where I suspect it warps - at the barrel band recess.
• The extractor seems to be a 303 extractor. I had very inconsistent or non-existent extraction. I used a no4 rifle extractor (at least I believe that is what it is) that was sent to me by Numrich as no2 rifle extractor, and reshaped it to work with my rifle.
• The round coming from left in the magazine didn't always want to feed. I reshaped the lips of the magazine, and now both sides feed properly.

I will try to straighten my existing forestock once more using the hot oil method. If it doesn't work, I will move onto the new forestock.