1st post! Ishapore 2a1 sporter restoration

[Seaspriter]

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. linseed oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

Information

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[MosinVirus]

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. Linseed Oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

Thank you very much for this. I didn't think keeping it "locked up" for that long was needed. But I do believe the more the better. I will try this on the second forestock.

So, from what I understand, do whatever cleaning needed, so that if the wood is subjected to liquids, it is done before it us straightened, then, steam and clamp down in whatever fashion needed to straighten, let rest for a couple of weeks as it slowly loses moisture, then oil liberally to lock in condition.

I guess dunking the wood in hot linseed oil would ensure deep and thorough penetration that is consistent throughout. What would be a good alternative if one doesn't have a vat large enough for this? Also, I don't think using BLO for this would work due to added dryers, but I may be wrong.

[Seaspriter]

I guess dunking the wood in hot linseed oil would ensure deep and thorough penetration that is consistent throughout. What would be a good alternative if one doesn't have a vat large enough for this? Also, I don't think using BLO for this would work due to added dryers, but I may be wrong.

Here's the easiest, cheapest way to do this:

1. Obtain a "crock pot" (or similar) that has a heating control that will keep the liquid in the hot (but not boiling) range. (there's probably one in your kitchen)
2. Get a piece of PVC 3" pipe (2" might fit -- check the measurements) cut to about 3' long. Screw or glue a cap to one end.
3. Put the pipe, cap side down, vertically into the crock pot, then fill the crock pot with water, and turn up heat. Tie down the pipe so it is stable.
4. Put the fore end into the pipe.
5. Fill the pipe with boiled linseed oil.
6. Put a meat thermometer in the oil to check temperature.
7. Let this continue for 1-2 days.
8. Remove the fore end and let the oil drip into a pan until it stops.
9. Then burnish the surface with rapid motion with an old towel to remove excess and help polymerize the surface.
10. Don't put it in the sun to dry as that could actually warp the wood.

[MosinVirus]

Here's the easiest, cheapest way to do this:

1. Obtain a "crock pot" (or similar) that has a heating control that will keep the liquid in the hot (but not boiling) range. (there's probably one in your kitchen)
2. Get a piece of PVC 3" pipe (2" might fit -- check the measurements) cut to about 3' long. Screw or glue a cap to one end.
3. Put the pipe, cap side down, vertically into the crock pot, then fill the crock pot with water, and turn up heat. Tie down the pipe so it is stable.
4. Put the fore end into the pipe.
5. Fill the pipe with boiled linseed oil.
6. Put a meat thermometer in the oil to check temperature.
7. Let this continue for 1-2 days.
8. Remove the fore end and let the oil drip into a pan until it stops.
9. Then burnish the surface with rapid motion with an old towel to remove excess and help polymerize the surface.
10. Don't put it in the sun to dry as that could actually warp the wood.

That is some really good info. Thank you,

[MosinVirus]

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. linseed oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

I am going to try this on the second forestock. It has been steamed, now clamped and will remain there for a while. Meanwhile I will be finishing what I already have and figuring out a way to get that oil setup you mentioned.