CMP Special Stock Help

[vintage hunter]

Why do you got 5,000 stocks??

Read '' The Legend of Barnwood'' up in the sticky threads.

[Bob Seijas]

Rick is The Man on stocks. After years of hard work, he found "The Barn" and bought what was left. Although that was mostly wood that was rejected by previous collectors, Rick is a repair expert and will get the most out of them. Yes, he sells them.

[mac1911]

I used minwax tung oil finish on my rifle I shoot in matches. It's easy to work with. Applied correctly it will not be glossy.
It does appear to have more of a sheen than 100% tung oil.
The problem with the CMP new stock finish is its only a very light sprayed on finish. From Mark Johnson's of the CMP own words.
It's a sprayed on stain/finish to even out and match up the wood.
I personally found the cmp finish to keep any other finish from soaking in. Good thing is the cmp finish is very thin and I was able to sand the finish out with out much wood loss.
I have a few unfinished cmp stocks I used walnut and red mahogany mix then 100% pure tung oil.
I apply as directed. I let tung oil dry or cure for no less than 5 days between coats. Once I get 4-6 coats I will use 600 grit cloth and tung oil and wet sand it. I love the smooth finish this creates.
My last new wood stock was a bugger and the front hand guard just did not take the stain well. Blotchy, owell it's a match gun and will get used and after handling it won't show as much. I'm no wood finisher but after getting some prices locally on stock finishing ( mind you these are standard walnut stocks under 200$) I said for that price I can afford to ruin a few.

[Seaspriter]

Mac1911 -- that's good advice and really works well on stocks. First use pure Tung Oil, which should also be applied to the interior in all areas. After the first coat sets, I switch to the Minwax Tung Oil Finish for the last 2 or 3 exterior coats. Minwax, I believe, has a little bit of varnish mixed in to keep the finish hard and resilient. Then apply a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and mineral jelly (mixed in a double boiler) to all areas where metal and wood contact each other to prevent rust to the metal and gun oil from seeping into the wood.

Two things I've found (after years of working on antique furniture and guns)
1) is to stay away from any type of sandpaper and use fine grades of steel wool instead. Steel wool is like a fine razor blade "planing" the wood smooth, whereas sandpaper "gouges" the wood. Using steel wool with oil produces a super-smooth finish.
2) After the exterior Tung Oil finish sets for several days, then apply a coat of good furniture wax (I use Briwax available at Ace Hardware) applied with 0000 steel wool for both added protection and to even the lustre to a soft glow.

[Bob Womack]

How many Garand owners does it take to refinish a stock?

100

One to refinish the stock and ninety-nine to stand around and say, "I can do that better!"

(Adapted from a guitarist's joke)

Bob