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  1. #1
    Legacy Member paulseamus's Avatar
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    TEL SIG No.32 Mk1 - Restoring

    I have recently obtained a 1943 Watson and Watson No32 Mk1 scope (serial 2707) and i am wanting to refinish the Range and Deflection drums.

    How should I go about it.

    Repainting the drums in black is easy enough.

    I am seeking guidance on how to repaint the engraved numbers.

    Is white the corrrect colour?

    What sort of paint?

    What technique/process is required to get the neat painted number finish?

    Thank you

    Paul
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  3. #2
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    tbonesmith's Avatar
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    Is it one from Lawrance Ordnance? If so have you had it cleaned &/or serviced?

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  5. #3
    Legacy Member paulseamus's Avatar
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    Thread Starter
    Tbone

    It was the better of the 6 at Lawrance Ordnance.

    Whilst it is in good nick given its age and history, it could do with a proper service.

    Can you point me to someone locally?

    Did you source the barrelled No4(T) Reciever that you rebuilt from Lawrance Ordnance?

    I have also, with the help of Google, tracked down a local supplier for Engravocolor Paint Sticks. "For brushless color filling of plastics and base metals."

    Thanks

    Paul
    Last edited by paulseamus; 03-26-2011 at 09:41 AM.

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    Why not forget doing it locally and speak to Fultons of Bisley about getting it done? Postage isn't too bad really for a beautiful job.
    I did get my receiver from Lawrance, and the unused barrel too. Not cheap, but I got to select it personally and didn't get one of the DP'd ones.

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    If you want to highlight the drum markings then the stuff we use is called QUICKFYL. It's a hard wax stick. You head the drum up and roll the quikfyl on and it melts into the engraved markings. Let it cool and wipe off the residue with an oily cloth. It lasts for ages and ages. A good alternative is kiddies playground crayons or road marking crayon. Quikfyl should be available from any engraving shop

    However, Watson drums were marked in a different way. The marks were engraved very shallow and wiped over with soft solder THEN chemically blacked. Then heated so that the solder showed through the chemical blacking. These are very difficult to highlight later using wax sticks

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