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  1. #11
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    Timing?

    I second the defective clip latch spring.

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    I think duckcreekdick has it right. There is insufficient pressure to move the op rod far enough to the rear to strip the next round. If not that then something is causing drag on the op rod. The clip latch and spring seem to be operating correctly since he does not mention premature ejection of the clip. Timing is the point where the op rod catch releases the op rod when the loaded clip is pushed into the rifle. He says with the original bullet guide it was hard to push but did release the op rod. He replaced the bullet guide and it released the op rod as it should, so sounds like the timing is OK. He still has a problem stripping the second and subsequent rounds from the clip unless he operates the op rod manually. That sounds like something is not allowing full travel of the op rod.

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    I finally got the replacement parts from Fulton this morning and went to the range to see what it is. After replacing one part at a time untill the rifle functioned it was the bullet guide that made the difference. All the old parts are now in the rifle except the bullet guide and it runs fine. Thanks for all the advice fellas!

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    I agree 100% with GUTS. Sounds like the bullet guide to me. The cam has to be good. I would recommend the last/newest ones made, stamped with the half moon cut on one side. You can get these brand new in the wrap. The cam is taller to make for more positive lock up when you pull the bolt back to load to prevent Garandicon Thumb. Guys who want to reload fast in competition will file the cam down until it almost won't hold the bolt back, but they know how to load and not get their fingers caught, takes plenty of practice and band-aids. If it's not the bullet guide check the follower arm, they get bent and the two pins on the skinny part get worn. It's definitely a receiver group part.

    Mike Schnittker
    Garand Collector Parts

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