Chamber reaming M1 Garand-need help

[boatbod]

As I understand it, the proper procedure would be to first check/lap the bearing surfaces of the bolt lugs to ensure equal distribution of load within the receiver. If you still have a headspace problem after that, you'd then use a pull through finish reamer with the stripped bolt until the bolt just closes on a GO gauge. Some say you can use the reamer as a go gauge, but why take that chance?

When you use the reamer, it is vitally important to keep is well lubricated and chip free. You don't want an accumulation of chips to build up and cause the reamer to cut unevenly or score the chamber.

The other thing to bear in mind (and it was mentioned earlier) is that a pull through reamer is only designed to cut at the shoulder and throat. If there are problems in the middle or rear of the chamber, the reamer won't do anything to sort them out. For that you'd need to pull the barrel and use a conventional reamer.

[Redleg]

If this is a factory original receiver and barrel, stop.

Disassemble bolts entirely.
No extractor or ejector-period. You cannot slip a hs gage into an assembled bolt and get an accurate reading.

Clean chamber with proper brush and solvent.
Then try to check headspace with both bolts.

If it is a new barrel and old receiver--have it checked by someone else before reaming.
few factory barrels were short chambered in my experience in checking dozens.

A little goes a long long way with a reamer, fast.

[boatbod]

A little goes a long long way with a reamer, fast.

Exactly! There is only 0.008" difference between GO and FIELD, which really isn't very many turns of a sharp reamer.

[Mark in Rochester]

Suggest you consult this book



you may be in the lapping range if it looks like this

[boatbod]

you may be in the lapping range if it looks like this

Yes, especially since the OP said his bolt was new, thus unlikely to evenly engage the receiver lugs evenly.