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Hi Dave, these are on one of my IBM's. The pics are fuzzy but almost identical to your Inland.
Could they have used similar tools and methods?
Regards.....Frank
Attachment 32192Attachment 32193
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03-23-2012 10:10 AM
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On fixing the shelf...
I have had good luck with gorilla glue. I work it in place with a toothpick, the cover the area with a couple of layers of wax paper, I then put an old Type III (junk) recoil plate in place. Then screw it down to provide the "clamping" force until it dries. Its important to make sure you do not allow glue to flow down the screw hole or you are in trouble. I use th gorilla glue because it seems to hold up once I BLO the stock again.
Its a cheap way to using Frank's method (I don't have all the fancy-dancy wood working tools)
Hope that helps...
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TR, your's and Painter's method is fine.
Just to add, don't get any glue on the the threads of the screw.
Gorilla glue is more forgiving time wise.
My example showed the plate entirerly broken away from the stock. It didn't show up until the stock was completly cleaned. My customer sent it to have the crack behind the plate fixed.
Regards.....Frank
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As to your flat bolt. It very well could have been done when the carbine was rebuilt. Early on through the early 50's round bolts were reserved for the M2 and M3 carbines during rebuilding and flat bolts were used for the rest. When carbines were rebuilt it's what ever parts were in the bins that were used and that very well is where the recoil plate screw was changed.
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The metal looks like GM(Inland) just made it yesterday. The wood, what can I say? Would that sandpaper had never been developed. But, if I have a choice I'd take good metal every time.
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Your parts with 'X'.I' were made for Inland and probably are original. I don't think the 'two-tone' receiver applies to the later carbines that were originally Parkerized, only the very early Dulite ones. The stock has been damaged, possibly by firing rifle grenades. Take your runny (watery) Super Glue and let it wick up into the cracks until refusal - do a little and let it absorb, then repeat over and over. Takes about 15 minutes. The next day its a piece of rock. Put your recoil plate in and tighten it. Put the action in the stock with the receiver tang hanging on the plate. The barrel should be an inch or more above the barrel channel. Smack the buttplate with the other hand and watch the action settle. It should stop with the barrel about 1/16" above the channel. Now when you assemble the band to the stock, you should not have to bear down on the barrel - it should already be in position to let the band slip over the nose and engage the handguard and the band retainer spring catch should snap into place. This is the optimum. Your carbine may not be fitted that well but at least you know what its supposed to do.
If the recoil plate is secure with the screw snugged down (not 'gorilla' tight - you may strip the screw or ferrule), you don't need to 'bed' it.
I would not remove the front sight to change out the band - it was put on there at the arsenal and represents the way the carbine was last in service.
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Before I bought the Inland, I noticed some bright areas on the barrel slightly behind the front sight - I was thinking maybe it might have had a blank firing adapter, or something on it. I wondered about the chip behind the recoil plate, but there was no visible crack. After I found the loose recoil shelf, I started thinking the same thing about a grenade launcher. I need to check to see if War Baby! shows about where the launcher attaches. No time left tonight to pull the bolt for inspection, but did take this picture of the rear sight and stake marks. The finish does look pretty new, and more paint left on the sight than any other one I own. Thanks for all the good advice about stock repair, leaving the band alone, etc. On the wicking in of the super glue, I'm thinking of putting some at the front, with the butt down, as well as some on the top with the stock horizontal. There's not much of a crack there looking down from the top. It sounds like I have at least 15 minutes or so to work before I should snug down a recoil plate on top of it. - Bob
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I'm not following what your plans are, but I didn't intend to suggest that you glue the recoil plate to the stock. In fact, I wouldn't do that. There is no percentage in putting the SG on the flat of the shelf unless the wood is rotten and porous, which I doubt. I think we're talking about two different things. I thought you should fix those cracks on each side of the recoil plate shelf with the SG. Unless cracks radiate from the chip behind the tang of the plate, there's no reason to put SG there. The repair for that chip would be to cut it out to a specific shape and glue in a piece of wood. Normally the tang never hits the end of the relief if its tight. The marks inside the stock from the receiver hitting it are most likely from the same event(s) of firing grenades - very high power, but still less than the factory proof round. Possibly the plate was a little loose when this occurred, which is why it chipped the stock and let the receiver hit. If you use the SG in this manner, the idea is to let it cure for 24 hours before installing the plate. Then you would use bedding compound to hold the plate if it will not tighten up.
As mentioned by Frank and others, be aware of the possibility that the cracks extend to the plate screw bore. You can still use the SG, but you have to monitor the bore to see if any glue comes through. All you have to do if it does is to stop and let it cure for 15 minutes which will stop up the cracks and let you continue from the front. If SG gets into the threads of the ferrule, you will have to clean it out with Acetone - so it's not an emergency.
I was thinking that if you stabilized the shelf that the plate might be okay without bedding it in. Even if you do bed it, you should use release compound so it is not glued to the stock - it should be removable. You should be able to take it out of the stock with no tools after pulling the screw out, and put it back in without tools. Ideally, the fit should be such that there is no play with the screw out, but it is a part designed to be removable.
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Inland44, I was referring back to Charlie 'painter's suggestion of putting a piece of aluminum foil in before tightening it down. Since I've already had the shelf completely out, I was debating whether to apply the glue and then put it back in place, rather than wicking it in. The piece that comes out has the top part of the screw hole in it, so I already know that the "crack" goes beyond the screw hole. I was thinking there might be an advantage to clamping it down with the recoil plate (foil in place) before the glue sets. One idea I had was to wipe a film of oil on the shank of a spare screw and use a junk recoil plate just in case. I was thinking the same thing about the original screw possibly being loose - maybe even got bent and that was reason for replacement. I thought Frank and Charlie might have been thinking of wicking some SG in from the top, too - not sure? I haven't totaly made up my mind about "clamping" it. Your method must not use any clamping, just wicking in the glue, right? Thanks - Bob
Last edited by USGI; 03-26-2012 at 12:44 AM.
Reason: fixed a typo
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Bob, look at the picture of the plate ledge in my example. It was completly out. I cleaned up the area with acitone to remove any oils. then put supper glue gel on the stock surface. place the ledge on and line it up. Put a small block on the ledge and clamp. Don't over tighten the clamp just snug it up. If any glue runs out wipe it off. leave it upside down to prevent any glue runing down the hole. I like to leave it overnight before I remove the clamp.
Regards.....Frank
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