I just shot CORROSIVE AMMO. Will my rifle barrel implode?

[Lock and Load]

I've owned a case of old 1938 vintage 8mm Turk ammo in clips and bandoleers for a few years.
Almost chucked it last week after hearing horror stories. But curiousity got the best of me and I figured I'd give it a try.

Yesterday I shot some of it for the first time out of my Yugo M48a.

Wow, this stuff shoots pretty great after 75 years, with a "feel good" kick.
Good accuracy and no duds, which is better than I can say for the Olympic stuff I've been using. Next trip I'll bring a chrono, but I pulled a bullet and its 155 grain, haulin' butt downrange.

Upon completion at the range I ran a patch soaked with windex down the barrel.
Then I poured a thermos-full of boiling water down the barrel, followed by a Hoppe's #9 chaser. I windexed the bolt face and wiped that down. Got home, cleaned all my guns in the usual way using bore brushes, patches soaked with Hoppe's. Just for kicks I took apart the bolt and cleaned it, though everything seemed pretty clean already.

Am I done, or is there some other ritual I need to perform to avoid a rust tragedy?

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[MIKE33]

Did You run a oiled patch through the bore and al the parts that came in contact with the hot water,after alll that cleaning? I'M a soap and water person so i dray e them coat of oil and check it over the next two days or so. i have a *mm Turk and a lot of old turk ammo,fun to shoot enjoy.

[Skip]

8MM Olympic ammo. You can't buy better ammo. Underpowered, inaccurate and poor quality control. Turk is some stout ammo.

[FTIII]

I would check the rifle for at least 3 more days. When I shoot corrosive ammo I clean using old USGI bore solvent thats made to clean the corrosive salts out or hot water with a couple of drops of dish soap in it but you can also use window cleaner. Be careful to not leave any amonia in or on the metal and oil it after drying. Even with all of this I still follow the 3 day rule, check the rifle for 3 days for rust and if needed re-clean and re-oil. HTH and have a great 4th.

FTIII

[Parashooter]

L&L, it seems you've been reading some popular fiction about cleaning after firing "corrosive" ammunition. If you're interested, here are a few basic facts, unembellished by hyperbole or terror-mongering.

The component in "corrosive" priming mixtures is potassium chlorate. On firing it breaks down into oxygen and potassium chloride, a salt with properties very similar to the familiar sodium chloride ("table salt"). Each shot leaves an invisible trace of this salt deposited anywhere that's been exposed to the little cloud of hot gas and solid waste products generated by primer and powder combustion. Since potassium chloride attracts water from moist air, after a relatively short time - perhaps as little as an hour or two in very humid weather - it can cause rust to form in the barrel and any other steel or iron parts where it's been deposited. Because the primer cup invariably allows at least a small amount to escape, some is usually found on, in, and around the bolt.

Fortunately, potassium chloride is very readily dissolved by plain water, so all that's needed to prevent rust is to clean contaminated surfaces with liberal amounts of water. Warm water is good, cold water works about as well, and boiling water is overkill but does no harm unless you scald yourself or the stock finish. (Windex works because it's mostly water - and has no special advantage over plain water.)

Normally it's sufficient to clean, dry, and oil the rifle before sundown (when falling temperature raises the relative humidity) - and to clean the bore again the next day to finish off any chloride that was hiding in the tiny crevices and tool marks found in most barrels. Disassembling and cleaning the bolt is a good idea - if we use water as part of the cleaning process.

Hoppe's #9 and such oil-based solvents have little or no effect on salt deposits but are OK after a good water-cleaning and drying.

[Johnny Peppers]

If you like using Windex for cleaning after firing corrosive primed ammunition, save the empty bottle, fill it with tap water, and you have a more potent bore cleaner. All the other things in Windex just dilutes the water which is what removes the potassium chloride.

[Capt Mil Coll]

I think the only reason people started useing Windex is because it was cheep and easy to carry in your range bag. I use water with one third ammonia and a lil non-bleach dish soap. I shoot a lot. So I want it to be quick, easy to use and CHEEP.
I tried boiling water but wasnt impressed with the hassle of useing it, compared with the results.

Some will try to tell you you need to "neutralize" the salts. But as Parashooter said you need to FLUSH the salt away and out of your rifle. Heck a garden hose would be ideal to flush a rifle, except for the water getting everywhere.

Ive heard some use Windex, boiling water, warm water, cold water, water with ammonia, water with dish soap, water with ammonia and dish soap (my personal choice), vodka, Hoppes, borescrubber, reds and finally urine.

I flush it with my water/ammonia/soap then clean it as I normally do with Hoppes #9 and then wipe some oil over all metal parts when dry. When you go out shooting with 10 to 15 rifles and handguns like I do you want something to work consistantly. And as I said cheep and easy.

[arado]

When I shoot corrosive or non corrosive ammo I clean the gun with Waxoyl mixed 50/50 with white spirits. Using a bore snake. It cleans, lubricates and preserves in one operation. My guns are rust free. gary

[Johnny Peppers]

For just a few cents you can use any of the commercially available bore cleaners, but for the initial cleaning nothing is cheaper or better than tap water.

What purpose does the white spirits play other than diluting the Waxoyl? It won't dissolve the corrosive salts.

[eiclan]

Old coffee machine with the hot water spout does a good job with out getting to much water everywhere. Cheers