Fore Stock gap to Butt Socket

[Ridolpho]

ptf18: That sounds more or less like what I'm doing but I'm going to be estimating the thickness of the shim required with main screw in place, then checking visually for alignment of collar/ threads as I sand the shim down. I don't think altering the hole afterwards should be necessary or advisable. Unfortunately I won't be doing this for a while as I'm stuck in Kaua'i for a few more days on a much needed getaway from winter. I'll be posting some photos of my Siamese Enfield repair project after I get home.

Ridolpho

[ptf18]

Fellows: I'll keep you posted of my progress. It may be a while as Ive got other "projects" in line that the wife "asked" that I get done.... first.

[ptf18]

Ive got my Enfield ForeStock Rear Face to Receiver socket repair under way and have included some pictures.

The stock fits up tightly to both the L/H and R/H Draws and to the Rear Face and Reciever Socket as I used blueing to indicate the contact surfaces.

My concern is that the fit up is TOO tight and before I go any farther I'ld like some help.

I placed the barreled reciever into the sock and squeezed the 2 parts together.Through the magazine openning I can see that reciever is not fully contacting its mating surface of the stock. I can also see on the outside that the reciever is not fully seated. BUT its close maybe 1/16" shy.

I need to know how much "squeezing" I should do to fully seat the reciever into the stock? I realize that these parts should fit up tightly and that to remove the stock from the reciever (pulling straight down only) should require some effort. BUT at this point Im almost in need of a C-Clamp to fully seat the reciever into the stock. I think this would be excessive.

So could I get some help on how "tight" this fit up should be?

The blueing Ive applied to the bottom of the knox form is just barely staring to show thats its making contact with the stock and Ive got good contact pressure at the fore tip. The barrel appears to be centered left and right in the stcok channel.

Thanks

[Ridolpho]

ptf18: You've added quite a thickness of material at the rear of the forend. Is it the "draws" that are not allowing full seating of the forend? I ran into this situation on my current project and had to file the draws down to allow the forend to seat- at which time I found that the front triggerguard screw no longer lined up with the hole. This required more filing/ sanding of the spacer I added to the rear of the forend to shift it back which meant the draws had to be re-done. This is tough! However, If you were very careful in estimating the thickness of your spacer originally you may be able to reduce the draws to allow the forend to fully seat and end up with everything aligned. After mucho fiddling mine is now looking pretty good with pretty much uniform contact of the forend around the cheek. And please, take my advice with a grain of salt- like you I'm in the process of learning how to do this (and doing surprisingly well thanks to all the available postings and articles by the experts on this forum).

Ridolpho

[ptf18]

Ridolpho: Thanks: I got all the parts to fitup. The forestock firmly contacts 1) the receiver socket 2) L/H and R/H draws 3) barrel knox form 4) the fwd area and both L/H and R/H "rails" of the trigger guard for about 2" . Also there is good upward pressure of the barrel at the forestock muzzle end, the barrel is "floated" elsewhere and is centered in the stock channel.

After reading much about the type of linseed oil I should apply I purchased a bottle of "organic" flaxseed oil at Wally World. I thinned it with turpintine, warmed it up and currently have the forestock and HGs soaking in the stuff.

Although the beech shim appears thick, it measured .040". It was 2 thin veneer layers that I Accru-Glassed together and to the stock, I had sanded the rear of the forestock to a gap of about .037"... One side had a bit over .020" and the other around .030" before any work began. IMHO the stock was mft this way.

The draws appears near new as you could see the way they were cut and there was absolutely no "wear" (indent) on them.

We will see.

[RobD]

Nice work!