The real reason why none of the ORIGINAL cheek pieces seem to fit properly onto the No4 butt is because the drawings and thus the fit all relate to fitting them to the weapon for which they were originally designed. The P'14 sniper! A close fit but not exact or even good in many cases.
At Warminster we have the original rifles used to test the fitting of the cheek piece and the paperwork that suggests that it was popular with the snipers and staff and is there any reason why this new cheek piece cannot be fitted to the 'new' No4 sniper rifles that are coming on-stream. The rest, as they say, is history. So for you real originality freaks, your Enfield converted sniopers shouldn't have cheek rests!
Hello Paul, you've been very obliging for pictures, I wonder if you could post one of:
- the complete left side of the receiver out of the wood. (I'm interested in your sear stop and whether the hole comes all the way thru the receiver). Or the opposite side of this one: https://www.milsurps.com/attachment....3&d=1367612907
- more of the trigger assembly.
I'm very intrigued by your sear stop and trigger assembly.
Its single stage trigger mod has short crisp pull still heavy as spring isnt modified, the screw that holds the sear is in the one side of the receiver only its tapered on the end so as its screws in or out it adjusts the stopping point.the spring in the trigger guard keeps the trigger pushed up against sear so there's no slop .
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I dunno if I'd use that rear sight! Looks like the whole thing was placed face down on a belt sander after having been beat half to death. Just round up a Long Branch rear sight and clip the fixed aperture off.
The Canadian version is rather more neatly done than the usual British job. (Unlike the pad installation!). But production figures are much less, too.
My friend did a project for someone else - I forget who or what it was about now - relating to these trigger stops. Using all the facilities and pooled brains that we had etc etc. The long and short of it was that if the purpose of the trigger stop was to prevent any further movement of the trigger finger and therefore rotational movement the trigger and sear (is there or can there be any other reason/anything else?) in order to increase the accuracy, then the sear stop idea and theory is a total fallacy.
This is because once the cocking piece is released from the sear, add the lock time and firing of the rifle, then the bullet has departed the muzzle and is well on its way to the target well before any further movement of the trigger finger/trigger/sear could ever even remotely influence the rifle and its accuracy.
It's one of those flawed theory but good in practice ideas - or have I got that back to front?
Last edited by Peter Laidler; 05-07-2013 at 10:41 AM.
Reason: clarify a small point
This is because once the cocking piece is released from the sear, add the lock time and firing of the rifle, then the bullet has departed the muzzle and is well on its way to the target well before any further movement of the trigger finger/trigger/sear could ever even remotely influence the rifle and its accuracy. It's one of those flawed theory but good in practice ideas - or have I got that back to front?
During some developmental work on a lightweight M1/M14/M1A hammer there were several high speed videos done in 1/10,000 second increments to measure the locktime of the test hammers. It was observed that the trigger and finger actually jumped to full rearward position long before the hammer reached firing position. Quite rapidly enough that the impact could very well have an influence. Rather shocking, actually! I will have to see if the videos are still accessible.
ETA: this isn't the one with the trigger movement (No appreciable overtravel), but just a sample. Have't yet found the correct video:
ETA3: Not much better, as it also has an adjustable sear stop, but note the few frames required for trigger motion to cease. Maybe 0.0005 sec. (two part video, second is an early prototype not of my doing.):
Personally, I've found trigger stops of use on some rifles and many handguns. Usually watching the sights during dry firing will provide clues as to whether a stop addition may be useful. But on the few L-Es so equipped, I just use glue-on silcone rubber cones attached to the trigger guard.
ETA2: Only firearm in the collection with a glue on trigger stop that's been photographed, it seems, but it ought to convey the idea:
There must be some reason for the peculiar shaping of the forward end of the cheekrests; the UK pattern is most specific, whether by accident or intent I don't know. I have to say that the walnut(?) Long Branch variety in the second photo looks even worse than the UK pattern for interfering with a proper grip of the stock wrist. No wonder they made haste to come up with the semi-pistol grip stock with cheekrest built in. Too bad generations of British snipers were deprived of the advantage of using it.
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P L, jmore as a Action shooter i have a 686 with a grub screw in the trigger guard behind the trigger it has a piece of rubber inletted into it. The setting for use is the clynder is fully turned when the rubber stops the trigger (feel) then compressed to fire this allows double action speed shooters to have the same sort of let off as the single shot slow fire shooters without the twist of the action affecting aim.
PM
Originally Posted by 
