M1 Carbine cracked receiver

[I.H.1989]

Well, i am new to these forums but i have a question and i want to know if anyone here can answer it.

I have a Quality Hardware M1 Carbine made in 1943. I bought it a few years ago at a gun show, and when i was cleaning it the other day, i notice a crack on the receiver. I have shot this gun on several occassion and I was wanting to know what i should do with it.

Would it be best to have it repaired or to just get a new one?

Information

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[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

First off I.H. welcome to the forum. Longtime and newer members abound.

Do you have a picture of the crack? Where is it located? There are re welded receivers. And I'm sure varied opinions on them.

[DaveHH]

exclusively, it is not uncommon for the shroud over the spring tube to have cracks. It was the same on Winchester Spring tube receivers. Quality did some subtle changes and eliminated most cracks.

[I.H.1989]

I don't have a picture, but i can show where it is on the receiver. the crack goes all the way through.

I want to know if i can get it repair and still have it safe to shoot, or if i should trade it in for one that is in better condition?

[I.H.1989]

exclusively, it is not uncommon for the shroud over the spring tube to have cracks. It was the same on Winchester Spring tube receivers. Quality did some subtle changes and eliminated most cracks.

It doesn't have a shroud over the spring tube. it's actually detatchable

[manteo97]

If it is cracked right through in the location you indicated on the thumbnail, then it is basically scrap. USGI receivers are made from forged 4140 Cr-Mo steel, and for any welding at all you have to use pre-heat. The only area recommended to weld (TIG) on a receiver is a repair of broken ears on the dovetail cut for the rear sights.

USGI receivers have a Rockwell C hardness spec of 38-45, and the high temperatures associated with welding will significantly reduce the strength in the welded area (called heat affected zone or HAZ). Your particular cracked area is a high stress region, right behind the bolt locking lug.

Brazing will not reduce the hardness as much, but the brazing filler metal (brass or bronze based) doesn't have the strength required.

Retired metallurgist.

[I.H.1989]

If it is cracked right through in the location you indicated on the thumbnail, then it is basically scrap. USGI receivers are made from forged 4140 Cr-Mo steel, and for any welding at all you have to use pre-heat. The only area recommended to weld (TIG) on a receiver is a repair of broken ears on the dovetail cut for the rear sights.

USGI receivers have a Rockwell C hardness spec of 38-45, and the high temperatures associated with welding will significantly reduce the strength in the welded area (called heat affected zone or HAZ). Your particular cracked area is a high stress region, right behind the bolt locking lug.

Brazing will not reduce the hardness as much, but the brazing filler metal (brass or bronze based) doesn't have the strength required.

Retired metallurgist.

Thanks for the info. Will most WWII carbines have that same problem or is mine a special case. Also, does my carbine still have any collector value?

[manteo97]

Never seen one cracked in that region before. Have seen crack-right-thru on the receiver ring (scrapped too) on a Rock-Ola....a shame

You may want to think about parting out your carbine, that is, selling individual parts. There are a few spots to do this, gunbroker.com being one. Your barrel will even bring in some $$$ but I would remove the broken receiver (hard to do without right tools) or just hacksaw the receiver in two leaving the receiver ring attached to the barrel.

You can get some good advise on this forum about part ID.

Good luck!

[I.H.1989]

i actually made a mistake on the location. i'm on a military base so i can't actually have it with me to properly place it, but the crack is actually in the notch where the bolt would fall in on the receiver.

[browningautorifle]

I don't think there's much you can do with the receiver in this case. You better not weld it like the above description tells, it could be a parts source at best. Unless It's a perfect example of some stage of manufacture, it won't be valued as a collector item as is.