+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: some questions on a new No4mk1*

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #11
    Legacy Member 5thBatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Last On
    04-25-2024 @ 03:13 PM
    Location
    Zombie Town, now with a H
    Posts
    774
    Local Date
    04-29-2024
    Local Time
    12:09 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ssj View Post
    However they are still numbered starting with a letter? and then a 2?
    Cant really answer that for you ssj, I'm not into the No4 so don't have a great deal of knowledge on them, i only have one as i feel i have too, a 1943 Savage (Stevens ) Mk1* & a close relative, a No1 MkVI


    Last edited by 5thBatt; 08-30-2013 at 09:45 PM.

  2. Thank You to 5thBatt For This Useful Post:

    ssj

  3. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  4. #12
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    jessehh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Last On
    01-14-2015 @ 08:47 PM
    Location
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Posts
    42
    Local Date
    04-28-2024
    Local Time
    06:09 PM
    Thread Starter
    Could they have restruck it? I really can't see any cross outs. If they did grind the metal down on the receiver is it even safe to shoot?

  5. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  6. #13
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    conec's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last On
    01-27-2015 @ 10:53 AM
    Location
    Prescott, Arizona USA Earth
    Posts
    136
    Real Name
    Chris
    Local Date
    04-28-2024
    Local Time
    05:09 PM

  7. #14
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    ssj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last On
    11-13-2017 @ 01:21 PM
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    651
    Local Date
    04-29-2024
    Local Time
    01:09 PM
    If you have any worries I'd suggest taking it to a gunsmith. I looked at a mates new toy last night, a very nice 1942 LB, both lugs had a huge contact area and it only went 2/3rds down on the no-go....the barrel was so mirrored it hurt my eyes.....lucky so and so....

  8. #15
    Legacy Member Detroit-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Last On
    06-19-2023 @ 08:16 AM
    Posts
    202
    Local Date
    04-28-2024
    Local Time
    07:09 PM
    Are we sure the she is a MK1 or a MK1*? I live in Waterford and sure would like to see that rifle.

  9. #16
    Advisory Panel
    Peter Laidler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:48 AM
    Location
    Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The home of MG Cars
    Posts
    16,513
    Real Name
    Peter Laidler
    Local Date
    04-29-2024
    Local Time
    01:09 AM
    I have to say that I am not tooooooooo happy about this recent forum method of checking bolt locking-up cam bearing with whiteboard marker or indeed any other method than the loooooong time approved method. A couple of pointers first. The matching bearings of the bolt to the body have no consequence to or in any other situation except when the bolt is fully locked down and ready to fire. Whether just one or both or anything else has absolutely no bearing (if you'll excuse the pun.......) in any other position whatsoever.

    Sorry to be a tad ruthless but let's nip this pure sxxxx in the bud straight away. Here is how to do it properly and forget all the rest of the crap, please......... That is for amateurs or the so called enthusiastic amateurs who really shouldn't be ......anyway! Bless 'em!

    Remove the bolt and bolthead. The bolthead and CHS play no part in this, contrary to what you might read here or elsewhere........ Clean the rear surfaces of the bolt locking cam surfaces and the forward faces of the hardened body locking surfaces with clean methylated spirit. Now put a THIN smear of engineers blue onto the rear surfces of the bolt locking lugs OR the front surfaces of the bolt cams.... BUT NOT THE BOLT AND THE BODY!!!!!!!

    Now squeeze the trigger to lower the sear and push the bolt FULLY in so that it overrides the locking cams. Now lower the bolt and you will see that the rear of the lugs are well clear of the locking/bearing surfaces of the body (you won't actually see the left one of course......). Now, while the bolt is still down AND locked, gently draw the bolt rearwards until the shoulders of the lugs meet up with the locking surfaces of the body. Do it slowly again and now push the bolt forwards, lift it up and draw it rearwards.

    Only NOW will you see the witness surfaces that were bearing while the bolt was LOCKED in the firing position. This is the ONLY position that counts..........

    Now do a couple of dry-runs to test and play before you do it for real. The next thing............ Pull the trash can a bit closer and now lob that bloody whiteboard marker into it!

  10. The Following 4 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:


  11. #17
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    jessehh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Last On
    01-14-2015 @ 08:47 PM
    Location
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Posts
    42
    Local Date
    04-28-2024
    Local Time
    06:09 PM
    Thread Starter
    This is what I have on the rifle. This area looks scrubbed down a bit. If you look in front of the SN you can see an area that has been ground down smooth. I am not terrible concerned about the value of this rifle as it has a 1963 date and FR (my mistake saying it was FTR) stamp on the wrist. Now I'm thinking that everything was ground down nicely and restruck.

  12. #18
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    ssj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last On
    11-13-2017 @ 01:21 PM
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    651
    Local Date
    04-29-2024
    Local Time
    01:09 PM
    Peter thanks, however when out buying there isnt much opportunity to strip. Now Ive used marking blue and yes its the best...and your method is the way...but i find white baord marker similar and easy to transport, unlike a pint of marking blue....

  13. #19
    Advisory Panel
    Peter Laidler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 11:48 AM
    Location
    Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The home of MG Cars
    Posts
    16,513
    Real Name
    Peter Laidler
    Local Date
    04-29-2024
    Local Time
    01:09 AM
    Bolt don't fit correctly, wrong number, bodged/bubba re-number and he won't let you do a simple check like removing the bolthead, then don't buy or if you really must, thenreduce the price. And using ANY form of marker, whiteboard, blackboard, shaving foam or engineers blue (ours is in a grease form and comes in a very small tube) without removing the bolthead WILL NOT PROVE what you're trying to prove or disprove!

  14. The Following 3 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:


+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Similar Threads

  1. 1941 Fazakerley No.4 Mk.1 missing pieces - questions, questions, questions....
    By spinecracker in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 11-05-2011, 05:31 PM
  2. New No4mk1/2
    By McCraggen in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 09-19-2011, 11:08 AM
  3. Savage No4Mk1*(T) Questions
    By gsthreeeight in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 05-31-2011, 09:00 PM
  4. My new No4Mk1(t)
    By Garandrew in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-13-2011, 02:46 PM
  5. No4MK1 Pics and questions
    By pred66 in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-13-2008, 04:47 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts