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Thread: No4t Cocking pieces, which is best.

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    Contributing Member harlton's Avatar
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    No4t Cocking pieces, which is best.

    I have often wondered,' noting' it said by several experts, the people who knew what they were doing when done, that when building up No4Tsniper rifles, they fitted the earlier/heavier button cocking pieces, much later than ever needed, instead of the regular fluted type.
    That this was the way to go, is it still true today, or no longer necessary with better ammo. I was reading this in some back in the day information and one of the more common books on the subject.
    I fully realise to get an accurate shot, or at least the best possible, the faster lock time you can achieve is preferable, so the heavier button type seems counter intuitive, from my perspective.
    Although I have gone to the trouble of fitting the earlier button type, with the best finishes to my No4T just because it looks so right, I wonder, is it the best.
    If I take both types of cocking pieces and polish and surface treat all parts, and then treat the slipways, so bolt, and pin internals are both the same, which bolt, should and will provide the best lock time, or was it best lock time and better combustion back in the day.
    I'll Appreciate any answers. As I'm doing this, on two very similar rifles, it would be very interesting to have some others idea's on the answer. Thanks in advance if you choose to answer, and for your time.
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    Advisory Panel Thunderbox's Avatar
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    Question: why didn't the real experts - BSA and H&H, who actually built the rifles - fit button cocking pieces?


    I'd be interested to see the data the OP experts compiled that proves there is any difference in performance between different types of cocking piece...


    IMHO, its a military rifle and should therefore be rebuilt or restored to specification, and not to someone's benchrest novelty...
    Last edited by Thunderbox; 09-29-2014 at 04:27 AM.

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    Advisory Panel Lee Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderbox View Post
    Question: why didn't the real experts - BSA and H&H, who actually built the rifles - fit button cocking pieces?


    I'd be interested to see the data the OP experts compiled that proves there is any difference in performance between different types of cocking piece...


    IMHO, its a military rifle and should therefore be rebuilt or restored to specification, and not to someone's benchrest novelty...
    I think you just hit the nail on the head, who ever wrote that probably was exposed to converted Trials rifles and early converted Savages....which were mostly fitted with "button" cocking pieces.

    Especially as I think the quote may be?? attributable to Reynolds.
    Last edited by Lee Enfield; 09-29-2014 at 02:12 PM.

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    I admit to polishing the shaft of the striker but only to a) get rid of any imperfections and b) it was a simple matter to put the shaft in the lathe or pillar drill, spin it and polish. No other reason than that! As for the lock-time question, different weights of cocking piece and.......... Well, mathematically and physically there might be something but in the real world of the bleedin' obvious, then you would need scientifically accurate timing and weight instruments to............ And don't forget from your physics lessons at school and theory lessons when you were learning about kinetics that while a button c/p might be a tad heavier, it'll take LONGER to accellerate than the light one. And the mainspring weights are ....... and.........

    Nope.......... I suggest that you fit your bolt exactly as we did on the bench Harlon and leave all the hypothesis to the nerds. Just my view of course, probably shared by one or two others I suspect!

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    Contributing Member harlton's Avatar
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    Cock up piece

    Hi All,
    Thanks to all for your responses, well it seems I was way off in my thinking this had anything to do with the purpose of the weapon as a sniper. I would never thought for a second about the points you made, all valid, and I'm so glad I asked. I would still be trying to figure it out, must say it's a damn shame, I love the way it looks, just right to my mind, but I want this to fire small tight groups that's my objective, so I guess the Button cocking piece may have to go if a significant difference is noticed.
    Although I won't be bayonet fighting with it, the half cock/re-cock feature is bloody nice to have, I've only had it happen a few times, but when it does I hate it, much rather hit it again safely and then wait, and I'm confident it's dead.
    Thanks to all for humouring me, and the helpful info too, I would never of thought about that.

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    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    The whole exposed cocking piece was a hangover from the days of black powder and dubious priming mixtures.

    Sure, in certain "special" situations, one could "discretely" cock the rifle before use by hauling on the cocking piece.

    However, on the two way rifle-range, a "dud" round was a lot more likely to be simply ejected and a fresh one chambered in its place. The extra fooling around to re-cock by hauling back the cocking piece means that your firing hand is not in the right place to be ready to fire another quick shot, anyway.

    If the rifle continued to just go "click" on fresh ammo, it was high time to find another one whose owner no longer needed it and to carry on.

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    Contributing Member muffett.2008's Avatar
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    Australianicon troops in Korea requested the larger old style knob, as it was easier to use with gloves in sub zero temperatures,
    most pic's of OZ snipers in Korea show the old knob, my HT also has it, so maybe the No.4's were set up for the same reason.

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    Just one question Muffer and it's this..... Just WHY would they request a bigger knob if you'll excuse the pun! Surely you don't need to use gloves to cock the rifle - you just open and close the bolt. If it was a misfire, then looking on the realistic side, if your rifle misfires when you're on active service, you just reload and shoot again, surely. Or am I missing something? Another realistic view would be that the same gloved hands also lift the bolt (bigger knob perhaps?) and squeeze the trigger (arctic trigger?)

    I never heard of this while in Oz and a lot of our blokes at the time were ex Korea men. Lauri Taggart from Castlemaine certainly didn't need a bigger knob

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    This is the first time that I have heard of this and it really doesn't make any sense to me either - starting with the physics!

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    Contributing Member harlton's Avatar
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    Hi All,
    please don't all get so upset, it was just a question ruminating in my head. I've ' read it' in several places, when reading about No4T's and in loads of pictures of them, a lot have them.
    As I wasn't born until 10yrs after the war was over, I cannot be held responsible for the design of a larger Knob. As to the physics, there are all kinds of things that can be done to adjust for that.
    My question was really why and which, whoever was there, they must have had some reason for the heavier Knob, lock time was where my mind went first.
    It makes the most sense to me, to fit the lightest possible piece, which is why I wondered about the reasoning behind fitting the button type in the first place. Nether the less, someone with more knowledge than I, decided to do so, and for some serious reason.
    I'm sure it wasn't just that I, and others see them as cool looking, on our "benchrest novelties" some nigh 80yrs later. Seeing as they go for nearly a buck a year on ebay these day's, and those real rifles are lucky, that see a shooting position these days, and not just locked up in a vault somewhere.
    As to what I'm polishing, it's the whole pin, the inside of the bolt, then a chemical peening process is applied to the one part, and the springs,it makes it almost frictionless with a light oil. I don't know about lock times as I don't have equipment for that. I have tested this same process on my suspension dyno, and I know it works there, and also on engines, and nice as it's mostly invisible.
    I would think a little preload on the spring, would probably equalise out the heavier piece. making it the same basically, just with a harder hit. I don't know why, but they did they use it, when the other was already in use, there must of been a reason. On a sniper rifle strikes me accuracy would be the main issue. If it was just gloved hands thats good to know, I wondered about the primers back then, I have no knowledge of them. My apologies if I'm wrong, but I thought maybe a harder hit would make sure they went off, never experienced that issue having a larger knob. thanks for the answers.

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