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Legacy Member
Ok, for anyone who's interested. As you can see there really is no difference in the lots. I screwed the bedding up on my No4 so I can't give a accurate report on accuracy as it wasn't too hot but I know it's the rifle. I can say it was consistent across the lots,,,if that makes sense.
The 69' lot "found I had 2 boxes"
High-2486
Low-2413
SD-73
The 75' lot
High-2438
Low-2356
SD-82
The 76' lot
High-2476
Low-2394
SD-82
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The Following 3 Members Say Thank You to WarPig1976 For This Useful Post:
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11-23-2014 01:30 PM
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Legacy Member
I hocked some stuff and got a bunch. All '76 dated; all clean and looking like just off the press.
Really surprised to see HXP on the market at this good price.
I guess there is a Santa Claus.
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Contributing Member
Originally Posted by
limpetmine
I guess there is a Santa Claus.
I guess hat explains all the snow over there then, nothing to do with Global Warming after all.
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Legacy Member
First Impressions
I took opportunity of a slow day-before-Thanksgiving to take my two No.4MkI "T" rifles to the Crooked Oak range in northwestern Alabama to try out some of that Greek .303 HPX ammo at 50 & 100 yards. Twenty-two bench rest rounds later, I have the following observations.
First, all rounds fired as they should and made nice regular holes in the targets. Happy to find that the windage of both rifles was excellent.
Second, the accuracy at 50-yards - for both rifles - was about 2 inches. Each rifle shot the first round significantly higher (3 to 4 inches) than those which followed. The groups were both about 4 inches above dead on, 6 o'clock hold at 50 yards. I used the battle sights which were both set at a nominal 200 yards.
Third, the 100-yard accuracy - again, for both rifles - as measured by 5-shot groups was about 4 to 5 inches with 4 rounds within about 3 inches and 1 "flyer" which opened everything up a bit. At this range the shots were still about 4 inches above dead-on.
Fourth, it's been quite a while since I shot these, or any other centerfire rifles, and by the last few rounds, my technique was beginning to suffer and I think that, in part, opened the 100-yard groups. As you all know, the 100-yard sight picture with 5-inch bullseye target makes everything look like the dot on top of a front sight "i" which stretches my competence a bit.
Fifth, the barrels sure came back dirty! After an initial soaking with Ballistol to neutralize any salts, I dried the bores and, so far, have been subjecting them to Patch Out which does a great job on copper. Both barrels are in their second soaking of Patch Out as I write this. When it finally comes out clean. I'll follow up with Kroil and Eezox.
Finally, I'm encouraged to the point that next I'll mount my steel Weaver K3 post-reticle on a wonderful reproduction mount which Brian Dick mounted and see what they will do with the telescopic sights. Certainly, I could go to higher power scopes but I have the feeling that the K3 will be just about right for these milsurp rifles shooting ball ammunition.
Cheers,
AQBill
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Thank You to aqbill For This Useful Post:
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Advisory Panel
Bill, don't you have a No.32 scope? It's been a few years but I thought your "T" with the DRP bracket as fitted up here was complete. Forgive me if I remembered wrong. I remember your rifle but….. Anyhow, try shooting at a 2" black square on a piece of typewriter paper at 100 yards. Birchwood Casey even make perfect "shoot and see" ones you can get and just stick them on. You might find your groups tighten up considerably using the aiming mark instead of a six o'clock hold on a military bullseye target. A 2" square was the official 100 yard zero target for a reason. Enjoy.
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Thank You to Brian Dick For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member
Nope, Brian Dick, don't have the original scope although it might be somewhere in a big ol' family farmhouse in Vermont where many of my dad's boxes remain. I'm thinking about going on a treasure hunt up there this coming spring. However, I did snag a nice Weaver K3 with a post reticle which is pretty close to the No. 32. Once the scope is sighted in I will try the 2-inch box at 100 yards. I thought the Brits used this sighting box at 25 yards, though, not 100. I'm pretty sure I can't see a 2-inch box at 100 yards with the battle sights and not sure I know many who can! With the scope, sure. Anyway, I'm having fun with the T's and grateful to have your support & interest.
Thanks,
Bill
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Advisory Panel
The 2" square at 100 yards is perfect for the No.32 or facsimile with a post and crosswire. Turn it to a diamond for crosshairs. It takes a lot of guesswork and variation out of sighting using such an aiming mark. I use 1" pastors at 25 yards to check zero and bedding. Same principle. Just set it on top of the pointer or front sight if a straight service rifle. You'd better go find that No.32 scope.
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Brian, Sent another dozen downrange today. This time with the Weaver K3. Took about 8-9 rounds to get zeroed in...not like my .22s when I can shoot at a small piece of rock on the range berm and see where it hits. Had to have a friend watch and it started about 2 ft low and 1 ft right at 50 yards. Once zeroed - 2-inches high at 50 yards - the last 3 rounds hit 4-inch square plate at 100 yards. Held a couple of inches low and smack on each time. I could get to like this!!!
Official 100 yard target - going to try your 2x2 diamond - photos to be posted next week. Can't believe how dirty the bore gets with just a dozen rounds. Maybe I'm working down through multiple layers which have been accumulating for a long time. Patch-Out is slow but persistent. I'll also take pictures of the patches I'm running through. Spent the rest of the morning working with my .22s for the silhouette match this Saturday and I must say that my CZ 455 cleans up much faster than the No.4 Mk.I. I'm guessing that these old bores are pretty darned rough. The Greek HPX ammo is the "bees knees" so far!
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Advisory Panel
It's not that the bores are "rough" so to speak, (although some certainly are). It's just accumulated fouling. Shooting and cleaning hot is the best method to get a handle on it. I use Shooter's Choice. If it's good enough for the current British Snipers, it's certainly good enough for me. There are other more brutal solvents. Boretech Eliminator comes to mind not to mention good old Sweet's 7.62 but it's designed more for eliminating copper fouling and is heavily ammonia based. I also stock Slip-2000 copper solvent which is very similar. When I had hundreds of the Greek issue Long Branch No.4's, I found it an endless task to get the barrels spotless. The bores of all were in very nice shape but even when they looked clean as a pin, the crap just kept coming out of them. Enjoy!
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I bought 450 rounds on clips and 480 round of loose from CTD. Clipped stuff looks very nice, the loose stuff has about a box full of ammo that probably was not grade A. Clipped stuff arrived safely, the guys in the brown truck did their best to destroy the boxes housing the loose stuff. All boxes had to be tossed but the ammo seems OK.
Fired 50 rounds of 1976 headstamp today in two rifles. One dud, which I tried in both rifles. I was somewhat surprised by this given all the excellent reviews...