New to me No4 Mk1 - stripdown and curious what the markings mean?

[Mayhem]

I've just picked up a No.4 Mk1, made at the Fazakerley ROF (S/N:BB20***) in March 1943 and I'm hoping that someone can enlighten me as to what some of the markings indicate. I assume many are proofing marks but unsure. Whilst the wood is in very good condition, the metal was pretty dirty, having been liberally greased or coated with a heavy oil. I anticipated this under the wood but not in the receiver, action etc, etc.

Attachment 70674

I know that the bolt is from a later rifle (judging by the S/N on the bolt [FC24919A] and the style of the cocking piece). Other than that, I really don't know much about it. I've read in some places that this should have had the mark 1 sight instead of the mark 2 sight but I have read conflicting pieces. I wasn't chasing an all original, serial numbers matching, collectors item. I wanted a WWII service rifle that I can shoot and I expect that there will be a few anomalies.

I've taken some pictures, mainly of the various marks on it and I have spent this afternoon stripping it down for cleaning. I've uploaded them to my photobucket album, so that they don't suck the life out of this thread. I know some of you may be on dial-up, or can answer my questions without seeing the pictures.

Here are the markings I am unsure about:

On the right-hand side of the receiver, there is a crown with a symbol beneath it (looks like a C and I). The mark also appears on the top of the bolt handle.

On the top rear section of the receiver (where the bolt enters), it appears to have X 7 and possibly another number stamped on the right-hand side.

On the left-hand side of the wrist the letter A has been stamped beneath the serial number.

On the top of the barrel, there is a crown stamp with the number 21 beneath it. On the bottom, a crown with 62 beneath it and N beneath the numbers is stamped twice.

On the left-hand side of the barrel the serial number is engraved and R18 stamped.

On the right hand side of the muzzle there is a symbol that I cannot begin to describe, followed by .303 and 2.22. I know the 303 refers to the calibre but is the 2.22 a reference to the cartridge length (minus the projectile)? Beneath this is reads NP 18 1/2 TONS.

On the foresight blade, there is a mark followed by the letter B. Beneath this is 060, which I assume indicates the height as .060".

In the raised square section of the bolt, SP13 has been stamped inside the recess.

There are several markings on the left-hand side of the bolt head, which may be tooling marks or abuse. On the top the number 0 has been stamped.

There are several marks on the cocking piece. The broad arrow, W and either a L or a 7 appear on the right-hand side, whilst F5 appears on the left.

On top of the cap on the front hand guard, the letters WL appear.

On the bottom of the stock the letter F appears near the wrist. Inside the the other furniture, the letters G or F appear (sometimes both).

The letter G has been stamped on the top of the buttplate.

The magazine body is matched to the rifle and the platform has AB stamped into it.

I'm sure most, if not all, will simply be proof marks but I thought I'd ask anyway.

One thing I have noticed is that the foresight looks to be out of position (i.e., not square to the receiver). When viewed from the front, it appears to be rotated slightly counter-clockwise. It is difficult to photograph however, you can see it in this one. Other than that, it looks pretty good.

Attachment 70675

I can post pictures of the parts cleaned up in a couple of days if needed. Essentially, each component has been stripped down and soaked in mineral turpentine (except the wood) and then scrubbed with a toothbrush to remove as much crud as possible. Next, it is put into the ultrasonic cleaner with hot water, cloudy ammonia and a drop of dish washing detergent. Finally each part is rinsed with boiling water, dried and placed into a plastic bag, where it is liberally doused with G96. The bag is sealed and the parts left for a few days. The receiver/barrel gets the same treatment but is wrapped in shrink wrap after oiling.

Thanks!

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Peter Laidler]

From the position of the foresight, the blade is too far to the left (or right from head on of course). If this is the case and it can only be zeroed for deflection while it is in this position, then the barrel is on the cusp of being scrap because it's either bent or being deflected by a twisted/warped fore-end.

But if the barrel is under tightened, by what you say and the position of the foresight blade then it needs what Armourers call '...tweaking-up a tad' using a breeching up clamp and vice. A real Armourer can help but please avoid your enthusiastic amateur mates at all costs and do it properly

[Mayhem]

Thank you Peter. I had wondered whether the barrel hadn't been tightened adequately, as when looking at it from the muzzle, this is exactly what it looks like. I am certainly hoping that this is the case but couldn't see any evidence of a gap. Mind you I haven't looked since I have cleaned off the gunk. Is the mating face on the receiver recessed? I'm going to take it a gunsmith this week. It is certainly not something that I am going to try to do myself.

From my initial inspection, the foresight appears to be parallel to the axis of the bore but vertically wasn't quite pointing at 12 o'clock. If the barrel was being deflected or bent, would you see this (under rotation) without any deviation from the axis of the barrel? I'm certainly no doubting what you have said, merely trying to understand better.

EDIT: Peter, I saw this comment in another thread on here (a bodged up 4(t) scope mount) and I made we wonder:

l keep repeating myself until I'm blue in the face......... That's the difference between real Armourers that understand the in-depth mechanics and mechanicals of the stuff, the gunsmiths, who are jacks of all trades and masters of...... lets leave that there. And the enthusiastic amateurs.

With this in mind, is this an issue that I can take to a gunsmith with confidence? I don't know of any armourers in my quiet corner of Australia.

[CINDERS]

tbonesmith shipwrights look him up he advertises on usedguns.com as well he repairs the Lee Enfield line, also looking at the crown there is a nice ding at the 8:00 o'clock position on the 11 degree part I have no idea if it was hard enough to displace some metal into the bore.



Try these for the markings https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...BUv5jjEZifA9Bg[COLOR="black"]

[Mayhem]

Thanks Cinders. I've bookmarked his site. However, I live on the same side of the country as you and probably going to swing past Roy Alexander and Sons tomorrow to see if their gunsmith can take a look.

[CINDERS]

Beaton fire arms also work on the 303's the only other ones I can think of is Barry's fire arms, Doug Barnes is no longer working on weapons due to his long illness as he was the go to person to work on the Enfields.
He was the armourer for the Perth Police Tactical Response Group

[Peter Laidler]

Tell them that you want the barrel trued using V blocks across the backsight axis on a sheet of glass and NOT by eye. Between you and me, I'd be sending it to TBone as he's probably more familiar with the ways of real Armourers than your average gunsmith

[Mayhem]

Thank you Peter. I'll pass on your instructions to the gunsmith and see what he says. I've been extremely happy with work he has done for me previously, as have friends of mine. Failing that, I'll look into sending it cross-country.