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Grumpy after attempting zeroing....
I had a wonderful day at the range late last week. The sun was shining, the birds were chirping (between clips, of course...) and there was hardly anyone around. I set up to zero my Long Branch No.4 Mk.1* at 25 yards (so I could see the bloody target - 100 yards is too far for my aging eyes) using the iron sights and the instructions kindly posted on this website under the technical articles section (full thanks to the correct individuals for their kindness in locating such gems of information). I shot off 2 warm up rounds in the general direction of the target, then fired 8 rounds to work out the elevation correction that would be needed, if any. When I looked at the target, I had a decent grouping, unfortunately the MPI was 6 inches above where it should have been - yikes! (the text states that the rounds should strike 3/4" above the aim point at 25 yards, and 3 inches above the aim point at 100 yards when the rear sight is set to 200 yards). I looked at the foresight already installed, and it is marked "+0.075", so I do not think I have much more adjustment in that direction. Any ideas as to what the heck might be going on, and how I might be able to make such a large adjustment (or should I even bother)?
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10-19-2009 02:09 AM
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Could be bedding dramas, but its also likely that its ammo related. I've noticed several Enfields that shoot higher w/ lower velocity rounds. 6" at 25yd is quite a bit, though! What's your ammo (Brand, bullet weight, etc.)?
A dinged crown can also move POI w/o destroying accuracy, a washed out one just won't shoot well at all, generally. Bent barrel? Etc. Break out the detective's hat and have fun investigating!
ETA If that's a two position rear sight, I reckon you made sure the short leg was up! Sometimes....
Last edited by jmoore; 10-19-2009 at 03:25 AM.
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spinecracker, One alternative is to buy another front sight and build it up with brazing, keeping the original 'as issued'. Another is to aim off, if possible.
It's the minority of rifles that shoot as we wish them to on the first trip to the range. The likely reason is that our facial structure isn't quite like the previous shooter/owner, placing our eye in a different location in the sight line. It's a good sign that the grouping is okay.
I always suggest using UMC ammo to baseline a 'new' rifle, as it shoots much like good Mk.VII in a comparo I made. I'm not a big fan of 25 yd., or even 50 yd. shooting, preferring to start at 100 yds., just me, not a condemnation.
Brad
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Before you do anything spinecracker, test the rifle with some good old 1955 or so RL, RG or K. ex surplus UK
military ammo. This is what it was designed to shoot. If it shoots this all over the place, then you know that it's the rifle. Before you go brazing the foresight blade higher, you could read an old thread on this forum about a later foresight block, raised by .040". This cured your rifle problem when they were shooting high in UK Military service.
An alternative is to find some old Sten blades as they went past .075" to .090" and .105" but in all honesty, try the correct ammo first then read the old thread
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Originally Posted by
jmoore
ETA If that's a two position rear sight, I reckon you made sure the short leg was up! Sometimes....
Yep, I did make sure of that
. I did read Mr. Laidler
's discussion on fore sights before heading off to the range, and I will try the different ammunition. I had been shooting with S&B 180grs FMJ. The reason for starting the zeroing process at 25 yards was to make sure that the rounds even hit the target, then I was going to move out to 100 yards for fine tuning.
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Anyone have any idea of a good source for the ammunition mentioned by Mr. Laidler
?
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Banned
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Does anyone know a source of the later, raised foresight block and the Sten blades mentioned by Mr. Laidler
?
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If it is still high after you have used the Radway Green/Kynoch/RL Woolwich ammo and done the checks suggested by Ed H, come back to see me and I expect that the Armourers shop will be able to help with a high block, band, foresight. But I suspect that it's a fore-end fitting problem
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Hmmm...I wonder what effect an extremely loose (as in almost about to fall out) front trigger guard screw would have on aim....I thought I had checked every screw, but I must have missed that one - what a newbie move to pull lol. I have yet to get hold of feeler gauges to check for a gap between the fore-end and the receiver socket, but the fore-end did fall off rather easily when I was stripping it off. I have noticed that, since putting the rifle back together, the barrel is now free-floating at the business end (at least in an upwards direction), and a controlled "tug" upwards of a couple of pounds moves the barrel upwards - this was not present beforehand (the fore-end of the barrel was firmly held between the fore-end and the upper hand guard, and there was no movement in any direction).
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