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Last edited by Bulls-I_24; 04-13-2010 at 12:25 PM.
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04-10-2010 12:02 AM
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Ummm, I THINK you push back on the extractor to release it, shouldn't be hard then, or am I thinking of something else?
It's been a while, but it ought not be too hard to pull apart...
ETA- several hours too late- Yup, I'm delusional- pulled apart a bolt w/o messing w/ the extractor- it just drives out from the side opposite the extractor.
Last edited by jmoore; 04-10-2010 at 04:36 PM.
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You just aren't pounding on it hard enough.
I think you run into a thing where you feel you are going to break the blasted thing if you hit it any harder and you just have to overcome that feeling and hit it harder.
Get yourself a good hard surface that you can drill a hole into so the pin has somewhere to go and pound away.
I bought a Yugo
about a month ago and watched a video online step by step and that was the most frustrating portion but it did finally come out.
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Thank You to Aragorn243 For This Useful Post:
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Harder?
Yeah in the video I watched the guy said the pin would tap out hard put he was just using a ball peen and tapping pretty hard, harder than Ive ever seen for a pin. I had a block of wood with a hole drilled, the bolt was sitting flat and sitting on hardwood floor. I had a 16oz claw hammer and was smacking the crap out of it. If I swung any harder id be afraid of hitting my hand.
Im kinda ****ed anyway cause when I bought it the guy said it was unissued and all the #'s matched, which the ones you could see did, but the bolt and a couple other internal parts were replacements.
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Rather than messing up the bolt for no purpose, I'd be content to just clean it with solvent and compressed air. If a little grease is bothersome to you, just boil the bolt in water, blow it dry with compressed air and lightly oil.
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Part of the reason I wanted to get it apart is I'm considering getting a replacement firing pin that uses a spring to prevent chain fires. I wanted to see if I could get it apart before spending the money on the new pin, they aren't cheap.
Still haven't decided if I need one as of yet. I expect this is something that could happen but very rarely does and as I'm not very likely to ever use this outside a range in a pretty controlled environment, I don't think it's much of an issue.
When I did get it out, it was already pretty clean as I'd sprayed Rem-oil into it which dissolved the cosmoline
. My rifle wasn't coated with it to the extreme as some I've seen. It just had a light coating around the moving parts in the bolt area. Springs were pretty gooey.
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i never had that much difficulty with any of my SKS , i would soak it in solvent over night .
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Originally Posted by
Aragorn243
Part of the reason I wanted to get it apart is I'm considering getting a replacement firing pin that uses a spring to prevent chain fires. .
you should have know probs with slam fires if the pin floats freely now and you keep it clean
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I had the same issue with mine. You really do have to beat on it with a punch and hammer! I have never had to use that much force on any other firearm but my local gunsmith says that it is typical with the SKS. The flat flange on the opposite side needs to be hammered back in fairly firmly as well when you reassemble the bolt.
Jeff