Enfield 4T questions

[Stetam]

Picked this sporterized No4T up last night for $250. The guy needed rent $. I have some nice walnut lumber, a rear sight and all the bands to restore it but its missing the middle sling loop and pad screws. Are the screws that Sarco sells the same thread? And any idea where I can get a sling loop? He also said his dad has one with the scope and mount that he uses for deer hunting. I am trying real hard to acquire that one also.

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[browningautorifle]

If you place a WTB in the forum provided here, I'll bet you'll get everything you need. You're going to have a job of work getting it all squared away though. It's not quite as easy as clapping parts on and it shoots MOA...but we'll try to help.

[Surpmil]

First find out if he has the missing screws, sling loop, backsight and bolt(?)

If not, someone will help you get the appropriate 4BA screws for the front pad. If the front pad is still attached, probably best to just to run the new screws in with Loctite: no heat or solder as the spigot on the pad was machined AFTER it was fitted to the rifle, and if you heat it to solder the new screws in, you may move the pad and thus lose the collimation of the bases to the bore. Center punch the heads of the screws into the recesses left by the previous punch marks, unless by some good luck, the screw slots line up with the previous punch marks.

I've probably got a spare sling loop you could have, I'll check.

[Peter Laidler]

Er............. I'm not sute that I would necessarily agree with Rob about using loktite in this particular operation - or EVER on a No4! The screw heads are countersunk to match the pad on the rifle so they WILL self centre (that's the reason they use them) and align exactly. If you are going to do it, do it properly. There is a short article about how to refit the pads properly using heat and soft solder.

Maybe you ought to take a few days to trawl through some of the articles oin this forum in order to set the mood. But if I were you, and this is just an opinion based on nothing more than experience, I'd take on board that your No4T rifle is quite valuable (or it will be when it's finished, even if it is scopeless) and get your rifle rebuilt and assembled properly right from the start

[jmoore]

Er............. I'm not sute that I would necessarily agree with Rob about using loktite in this particular operation - or EVER on a No4! The screw heads are countersunk to match the pad on the rifle so they WILL self centre (that's the reason they use them) and align exactly. If you are going to do it, do it properly. There is a short article about how to refit the pads properly using heat and soft solder.

I would hazard a guess that minor adjustment will be needed after any front pad repair. A a couple or three thouandths shift fore-aft, and maybe one or two R-L. Not enough to create drama, especially with a new bracket and all needed...


Just an observation vis. the concentricity of most flat head screws: It's generally pitiful from a machinist's point of view! I use 'em all the time whilst getting certain aircraft parts ready to run on the lathe, but only expect about 0.010" or so repeatability. Using multiples helps average out the error, but probably beyond the worry factor for this sort of repair. Just being "anorackish"...

[CINDERS]

Be interesting to see pics of the whole action/brl front sight etc ~the collar is missing as well from the Guard Trigger Front (think thats how the guys caption it?) close ups of all the markings may shed light on where it has been.

[Roger Payne]

I've got plenty of the correct instrument head front pad screws if you need some.......just pm me.
It needn't be too much of a drama refitting the screws. I'd pinch the new replacements up tolerably tight before I even got the pads & receiver hot, then apply the heat & as the solder melts just pinch 'em up that little extra. Indeed, Peter might even advise that you go a step further & tin the screws before inserting them. But whatever you do make sure everything's very thoroughly clean & degreased before you start. I suspect you'll find the pad won't move a great deal.

Good luck with your restoration project; it'll be well worth while.

[Peter Laidler]

You might as well start with a longer commercial and readily available cheaply trigger guard sling loop assembly. Simple to shorten to No4T non-twist spec too (see a thread of how it's done). If your barrel has been sporterised that could be a bit of a problem

[Stetam]

Thanks to all for your input. The rifle hasn't been messed with except forestock was cut back. A few small bits to replace and then the hunt begins for a scope/mount. And Peter, you have been just as helpful now as you were a few years ago when I had questions after stumbling upon an SMLE sniper.

[Surpmil]

Thanks to all for your input. The rifle hasn't been messed with except forestock was cut back. A few small bits to replace and then the hunt begins for a scope/mount. And Peter, you have been just as helpful now as you were a few years ago when I had questions after stumbling upon an SMLE sniper.

Might as well tell us about that too while we're here!

And you'd better go with Peter's advice if it don't agree with mine!