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No32 telescope case No8
Just looking through the No32/L1A1 telescope EMER for some technical stuff and came across the spec for refinishing the No8 case at Field and Base workshops.
To be thoroughly cleaned by either acid dip or bead blasting. Where phosphating facilities exist it is to be phosphated and painted
PAINT, finishing, spraying, alkyd vehicles, high gloss, deep bronze green
Where phosphating facilities do not exist then
PAINT, priming, red oxide of iron or zinc-chrome, spraying or brushing. Followed by;
PAINT, undercoat for finishing paint, alkyd, vehicle, brushing or spraying, dark admiralty grey
PAINT, finishing, spraying or painting, alkyd vehicles, high gloss, deep bronze green
I expect there will be some health and safety issues with this paint but nobody really cared then or now.....
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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08-27-2016 06:51 AM
# ADS
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Legacy Member
Proper and full health and safety precautions are supposed to be and should taken when using Zinc chromate primers because there are said to be fairly "nasty" chemicals in them. I would guess that his would mean using an air fed mask and visor when applying this paint is advised/recommended. Personally when using it occasionally at home for small jobs my health and safety precautions amount to using a filter mask if spraying or if brushing it having my shed door open. This doesn't amount to advice to others on what precautions to be taken when using these types of paints but it is what I do when applying it.
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Thank You to Flying10uk For This Useful Post:
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For brush work, I'd go for Hammerite Red Oxide primer, used on my phone box and left it for many weeks to see any faults etc, even though I'd got it back to bare metal, some metal that was slightly pitted with minor rust just come up as black spots...... no breakdown in the paint just a colour change (only a few bits) its what I'm using on my WD Matchless, then oil based Service Brown.
My brother always mentions going to the paint shop (42 command workshop REME) and how the air was just an oil paint mist that used to stick to you...... as Peter has mentioned before I would say probably least of the worries as most Mechanics at the time used to dip there hands in the trichloroethylene tank to get them clean........
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Oh........., Flying 10, stop it! I only mentioned the dreaded H&S as I just knew you'd come back. I was required to enforce the regime occasionally and saw at first hand how stifling and convoluted it all became. One day I'll mention the HUGE trich vapour bath but it'll drive you apoplectic. Mind you, most of us felt that way after a few hours near it
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Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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I always advise others to stick to recognised health and safety procedures but I don't always do so myself when it is only me that could be affected by any potential outcome.
Occasionally I spray 2K type vehicle paint wearing only filter type masks but I don't use it very often. I never advise others to do the same as myself; I always advise that the correct type of mask should always be used which has it's own air supply.
I don't believe that true red oxide paint has been available, in the U.K. for years due to some sort of environmental/health and safety concerns. The stuff that is available now and people call red oxide isn't although it is red in colour.
Last edited by Flying10uk; 08-27-2016 at 06:14 PM.
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Advisory Panel
Speaking of paint, I assume those of you in the UK
have availed yourselves of the remaining stock of Suncorite being offered on ePay UK? The price for a litre was quite reasonable IIRC.
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
Edward Bernays, 1928
Much changes, much remains the same. 
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The clever/wise ones decant it into aerosol spray cans. But you have GOT to keep it regularly stirred or shake the xxit out of it. That's why it has got a sell/use by date. Once it's settled, its toast as you'll never(?) get it to mix properly again.
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Legacy Member
My paint supplier advises stirring vehicle paint every six months in order for it to "keep well" and it also provides an opportunity to discover if the tin is starting to go corrode inside. If this is the case it should be decanted into another tin with as little of any associated rust as possible.
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I regularly invert the suncorite tins just to help keep the 'sludge on the move', as it were......
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