Internally cracked SMLE stock

[Jack Flat Cap]

While disassembling my rife to take photos of the markings I noticed the previous owner had cracked the stock just above the trigger, around the stock bolt plate. I've read this was common when someone would try to remove the butt-stock without removing the fore-end of the stock first or something to that effect. Is there anything I can do to "repair" the crack/reinforce it? I've fired about 4 magazines through it since owning it without issue but I'm worried about what further range days might do.

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[browningautorifle]

So, you have pictures of this damage for us?

[Alan de Enfield]

While disassembling my rife to take photos of the markings I noticed the previous owner had cracked the stock just above the trigger, around the stock bolt plate. I've read this was common when someone would try to remove the butt-stock without removing the fore-end of the stock first or something to that effect. Is there anything I can do to "repair" the crack/reinforce it? I've fired about 4 magazines through it since owning it without issue but I'm worried about what further range days might do.

It sounds as if you are not sure how the crack can occur (removing the fore-end of the stock first or something to that effect) - how did you disassemble it ?
Could you have caused it ?

Yes it is repairable if you are "good with wood".

[englishman_ca]

Super glue

[Ridolpho]

Jack: I'll reply- not as a repair expert but as a collector/shooter. I find cracks in this area on so many rifles and some don't seem to warrant full-on repair- just squeeze in some glue, clamp it and you're good to go. However, if one or more cracks splay out and separate the actual load bearing portion of the "draws" from the rest of the forend you should probably have it properly repaired before continuing to shoot. Try to post a couple of closeup photos of the problem area. I would guess that nearly 50% of the LE's I've owned had some damage in this area- one of the frustrations of collecting/ shooting LE's that were built decades ago.

Ridolpho

[Jack Flat Cap]

It sounds as if you are not sure how the crack can occur (removing the fore-end of the stock first or something to that effect) - how did you disassemble it ?
Could you have caused it ?

Definitely not, the crack seems fairly old/covered in cosmoline(?). I followed a procedure many others use, muzzle-to-stock, and left the butt-stock in the socket; I didn't see a need to remove it.

I've read that it's due to the butt-stock's fastener being squared-off same as the slot in the stock bolt plate meant for the fastener itself, but as I've not had much experience myself with SMLE's I assume there may be other ways to crack the same spot (possibly higher load cartridges than intended?)

So, you have pictures of this damage for us?

Try to post a couple of closeup photos of the problem area.

Indeed, forgot to post them. Here you go guys!

Attachment 100391Attachment 100392

[browningautorifle]

Looks like it was time and perhaps drying out caused this...not hot ammo.

[Ridolpho]

Jack: How snug was the forend in the draws area? The crack doesn't appear to directly affect the structure of the draws but also can't see impressions that the sear lugs normally make in the wood.

Ridolpho

[Roger Payne]

We could do with Peter or one of the other ex-armourers chiming in here, but IIRC from what has been previously discussed, that crack probably isn't too serious at all, & is almost certainly from 100 year old wood gradually drying out & contracting ever so slightly. It is so common as to be almost the norm. I think it was said before that (all other things being equal) so long as the brass transverse strengthening pin is intact, then the two sides of the crack will not be able to separate significantly. (I guess the stock bolt keeper plate is also helping here). In fact, the two sides of the wood at the very rear of a No4 Mk2 fore end are held together only by the little transverse keeper bolt.

Anybody professionally qualified around.....??

[Jack Flat Cap]

I think it was said before that (all other things being equal) so long as the brass transverse strengthening pin is intact, then the two sides of the crack will not be able to separate significantly. (I guess the stock bolt keeper plate is also helping here).

You have a good point there, I'd probably still reinforce with some type of glue as suggested though just to be sure.

How snug was the forend in the draws area?

Pretty snug to be honest, it doesn't slide off without some careful maneuvering/tugging but it doesn't clamp like a vice when secured in position.