Newbee

[Interlake]

Just got an eary 2 million Springfield M-1. It's in great shape and will be a good shooter and is mostly all Sprinfield. A couple of questions. It has an un-cut op rod #D65382-9 SA. I thought the 65 means post-war amd I thought all rods were changed before the end of the war. Also, used a lot of force to get the gas cylinder lock off and it wouldn't. I was afraid to force it. Also, on the sights I have the lock bar. I can't turn either of the knobs. Again, didn't want to force it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. As far as the op rod, I guess I order a war period rod and put the other on ebay or gun broker.
Thanks

Information

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[browningautorifle]

Love to have a look at this one. The gas cylinder lock is likely just REALLY tight, as long as you're unscrewing it there shouldn't be a problem with damage. The Lock bar was likely tightened by the same guy. Should unscrew lefty loosie... The op rod number 6535382 SA I think will be found on production rifles from 1952 onward 4.2 - 5.8 mil serial number range. Wait for more on that. Check your number again?

[ssgross]

used a lot of force to get the gas cylinder lock off and it wouldn't. I was afraid to force it.

Welcome! Give your gas plug a good hit of penetrating oil. Sometimes they are on there real tight, especially challenging to remove when it is awkward to get a good grip with lots of leverage. To get a good grip without a vise, Schuster MFG makes wrench that does the trick. It's here.
http://www.schustermfg.com/m1-garand/
Just as easy to set it muzzle up in rubber jaws on the bench vise, but that little dohicky is nice to have on the range.
Why would you want to swap out gas plugs on the range you may ask? You will also find on that link they make an adjustable gas plug so you can shoot hot (or normal, depending on who you ask) factory or hand loads without fear of damaging your op rod or, if you are like me, prevent the bolt from cycling so you don't risk losing expensive brass at the range.

We do love to see pictures.

[Durango56]

Depending on what your serial number is the D65382-9 SA op rod is possibly correct.
Is your gas cylinder screw single slot or does it look like a Phillips screw? Try not to bugger it up when removing. turn lockbar counter clockwise and you should be able to move elevation and windage knobs if not use penetrating oil and patience. Sound like a nice rifle.

[Durango56]

D35382-9 SA should be correct for your rifle depending on your exact serial number. I mistyped above.

[Interlake]

The full serial number is 2037193. I have the type 2 lock bar sight. I was going nuts because ther were no range numbers on the elevation knob. Turns out they were just so worn that you couln't see them. I ordered another knob so I will be able to sight it in. My problem wasn't the gas plug it was the gas lock-the thing you take off after the plug. It's tighter than hell. I got a shuster adjustible plug. With the uncut op rod, I'm hoping, If I use normal loads, the op rod won't break. It will also lessen up the pressure and make it easier on the system. Another question, I ordered 2 bandoleers, with clips, off ebay. Getting the eigth round in was a bitch so I thought maybe they were crapy re-pops, so I got a package from CMP. They a real tight too. Have to cram that last round in too. Is that normal. Lovin this gun(rifle). Can't wait to shoot it.

[ssgross]

They a real tight too. Have to cram that last round in too. Is that normal

pretty normal. you can work them with your hands to break them in a bit.
At the range you will likely notice the parkerization on the new ones are typically very rough - sometimes requiring great force to get the first round out, sometimes even causing the second round not to cycle. I give my brand new ones a half hour in my case tumbler with walnut media. No problems whatsoever after that.

[browningautorifle]

With the uncut op rod, I'm hoping, If I use normal loads, the op rod won't break.

They aren't made of glass...and yes, your adjustable gas cylinder lock screw will take all the excess gasses off. Make sure you have a look at the instructions and read a bit about guys using them so you have a pre existing idea what's going to happen. Also you see Schuster makes the wrench for your gas cylinder lock so you can unscrew an abnormally tight one. I used a 14" adjustable wrench myself...you really aren't going to break this WW2 veteran... The clips are tight and I agree with post 7 on them. You'll get used to them.

[Interlake]

I have the wrench you speak of on order. Ihe fit of the cyclinder to the hanguard is real tight. Also, I noticed a horizontal crack in the butt stock. It's about six inches long an ends at the butt plate. I taking off the butt plate, you can see the crack reaching one of the holes in the butt stack. I love the rifle and will keep it but am concerned that it could become a real issue. Thought maybe the arsenal would have caught it. The rifle is six days old. Do you think the CMP would do anything about it. Thanks for all your help guys
Ed

[ssgross]

What CMP grade was it? if it was rack or field grade they won't be helping, but will sell you a replacement stock. If it was "Service Grade", and the crack doesn't go all the way through, they may have let it pass. Hard to tell without a picture how bad it is. If they just didn't notice it and it is unserviceable, I have to think they will take care of you, since the whole point of the CMP service grade is good enough to have been issued to the troops and used dependably.
For reference, my service grade came with an all new stock and handgaurds - not new-old-stock, but brand new very well fitted replacement stock. I expect the 2 service grades I ordered back in Oct. will have new wood too. I imagine that original stocks would get swapped over to rifles of higher quality that would be more valuable with a good original stock that is still serviceable.