Clean a Wood Stock

[EddieM]

Hey Gents

Which is the best way to clean an M1 stock without hurt it? It doesn´t have stains to worry about just the normal wear.
Thank you in advance

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[browningautorifle]

There's lots of product to use. Some just use toluene, some use Acetone, Toluene or Volatile mineral spirits. I've used 1850 (liquid) furniture stripper and scotch brite to just clean and buff... Don't use sand paper or oven cleaner... You'll get the phone book here on this one.

[EddieM]

There's lots of product to use. Some just use toluene, some use Acetone, Toluene or Volatile mineral spirits. I've used 1850 (liquid) furniture stripper and scotch brite to just clean and buff... Don't use sand paper or oven cleaner... You'll get the phone book here on this one.

Hey Jim,
Thank you for your reply, the products that you mentioned will only clean without hurt the finish and color? The wood and finish are ok but really I don't know when was the last time it was clean it, just wondering if would be a good idea to clean it before store it.
Have you ever used automotive wax, like turtle wax or another brand to clean stocks?
Regards

[72 usmc]

Here is a link to some old posts & many different opinions. This will open a can of worms from a light clean to a BLO scrub to a ruined stock... Think preserving original patina...

Stock cleaning advice needed 9 nov 2014 repost - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.org
oil scrub stock cleaning - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.org


Most surplus stock are best kept as found.
Lets see a picture of some stock sections and a close up of the worst section???

I might just suggest a light application of ..."Howards orange oil ( NOT LEMON OIL ) or Kotton Klenser brand "Protective Wood feeder".
Please see the many references and methods used by others.

[Singer B]

I just use Hoppes #9 and barrel patches to remove the grime, dirt, crud, etc. O ce all of those years of grime are removed, you can start rubbing in thin coats of raw linseed oil. M1 Garands and M1 carbines were originally1 finished with RLO. Or, as someone mentioned above, leave it as his as that is what the rifle has experienced in its travels. I personally prefer to clean and rehydrate the wood since it helps to prevent future cracking and will, IMHO, extend the life of that original piece of wood. Just don't sand it! Hope that helps!

[72 usmc]

It seems that Parallax Bills forum is gone ? The great reference may be gone, links to it are dead. Maybe they were saved to the Wayback machine archive? It will take some time to investigate

[browningautorifle]

the products that you mentioned will only clean without hurt the finish and color

That's right only remove grime and hardened old finish like motor oil or whatever may have been put on. Your patina will be gone and the finish will be matt. I've never used automotive wax.

[EddieM]

Here is a link to some old posts & many different opinions. This will open a can of worms from a light clean to a BLO scrub to a ruined stock... Think preserving original patina...

Stock cleaning advice needed 9 nov 2014 repost - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.org
oil scrub stock cleaning - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.org


Most surplus stock are best kept as found.
Lets see a picture of some stock sections and a close up of the worst section???

I might just suggest a light application of ..."Howards orange oil ( NOT LEMON OIL ) or Kotton Klenser brand "Protective Wood feeder".
Please see the many references and methods used by others.

Hey 72 usmc
Very interesting links, thank you for your support.
I´m not trying to refurbish it, my main goal is to keep it as it is because it´s part of its history and character, my only intention is to try to clean in a light way the surface.
Regards

---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

I just use Hoppes #9 and barrel patches to remove the grime, dirt, crud, etc. O ce all of those years of grime are removed, you can start rubbing in thin coats of raw linseed oil. M1 Garands and M1 carbines were originally1 finished with RLO. Or, as someone mentioned above, leave it as his as that is what the rifle has experienced in its travels. I personally prefer to clean and rehydrate the wood since it helps to prevent future cracking and will, IMHO, extend the life of that original piece of wood. Just don't sand it! Hope that helps!

Hey Singer.
Totally agree with you, as always thank you for your support
Cheers

---------- Post added at 01:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 PM ----------

That's right only remove grime and hardened old finish like motor oil or whatever may have been put on. Your patina will be gone and the finish will be matt. I've never used automotive wax.

Hello Jim,
I read that isn´t the best way to use an automotive wax, but as its main purpose is to protect it leaves a very light film but hard to protect the wood surface.
Regards

[72 usmc]

car wax NO.

Check out Toms 1/3 wax. Many like it, but it leaves the stock looking too new & fresh for my taste. Products
Toms 1/3 Mix - YouTube
A thought, I would get some 1/3 wax and a jar of Kotton Klenser wood feeder and try it on an old board and see what you like best.


I use Kotton Klensers wood feeder at the Antique store and on gun stocks to maintain a dull finish that re-oils dry wood. Not on oak. The 1/3 wax works on stocks with a thick finish and produces a nice shine to the wood. OK on oak. Just depends on what you want. Also see the CMP M1 link in the second link about wood conditioning M1 stocks:
Wood Cleaning Article - Civilian Marksmanship Program

[Singer B]

You should not have a shiny finish on a M1 carbine, so you do not want to use wax. Just stay with the RLO for the correct finish and wipe it down with RLO once or twice a year to keep it hydrated and correct in appearance.