Trigger work?

[c east]

Anyone done any...My is 2 stage, and I like that in a trigger, but the pull is very heavy and the second stage is CREEEEEPY... I have three carbines and all 3 are pretty much the same...My 03 springfeild has a fine trigger and wonder if anyone has played with them...? I finally got my FAL to smooth out, so maybe I can do the same with a carbine. Charlie...

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[Curt]

Um carbine is a single stage trigger. Phil Arington did a trigger job for me on my match gun. Really all they can do is smooth it up.

[imarangemaster]

I had a NPM mixmaster about 6 years ago that had at least an 8 lb trigger. Made accurate shooting difficult. I tried stoning it, but it did not help much. I swapped a sear and hammer, and that help quite a bit. My current Underwood mixmaster (all Inland trigger guard and parts) has about a 3 lb. Very sweet.

[c east]

Wow I am amazed ,it sure feels like a 2 stage...Anyone know of anyone doing this kind of work?....How do I contact Phil Arington ?....Charlie

[jimb16]

As far as swapping a trigger and sear goes, you can do it yourself, easily. If you want to know how, just ask. Most of us could do it in 5 minutes or less.

[painter777]

c east,
read back thru this post.
JimF gives a nice view of how to easily swap out a trigger and sear,

Desiring M1 Carbine knowledge - Military Surplus Collectors Forums

Cheers
Charlie-painter777

[Curt]

I did find the best combo of trigger and sear I could by weighing them then I sent the trigger group to him and he got it smoothed out little better, His web site is Arrington Accuracy Works. I think trigger jobs are $65. They can only do so much to a carbine trigger, the ones he did for my Garands and M1A were amazing though.

[jmoore]

Quote from C EAST:I finally got my FAL to smooth out, so maybe I can do the same with a carbine.

Carbine and FAL FCG's are basically brothers. Some differences in details, but the theory is the same (as long as there's no select fire parts involved). Carbines are actually easier to work on than FALs once you've have done the disassembly/assembly routine a few times in a row. Parts don't cost much either, so if you wanna try your hand at it - have fun. Don't expect miracles- too little sear engagement or rounded edges can get you in trouble. Just remember, you can't decrease the trigger pull weight of a carbine trigger return spring like you can an FAL's; its really light to begin with! Hence the "single stage" notion.

[OlManDow]

I trust that you have the late-style parts already installed? The early '20-coil' spring, sear with no hole, and 'dog-leg' hammer had an atrocious triger pull. You should be working with the '26-coil' spring, late sear with the hole or grind mark (or and M2) and the late hammer. they were adopted to alleviate exactly the issue you are addressing.

Assuming you have the late style parts, you can decrease the travel and pull a little bit by grinding the bottom of the hammer to reduce the depth of the notch, exactly like the procedure used by the Canadians on the C1A1. A bit too much and it wil follow-throughof fire doubles, but hammers are cheap, so try it on a spare hammer.