dot 1944 help

[technova]

I have a sporterized non-matching dot 1944, I would like to get it back close to original. I do not need numbers matching, I want it to look like it would have if carried in WWII.
Mix master is OK if period correct.
I don't really know what I have and what I should be looking for.

dot 1944 and a symbol with 63 on top the receiver. receiver was drilled, tapped then plugged for scope mount.
same symbol and 63 twice on RS of ring
Nazi eagle on LS of ring.
mod. 98 on LS receiver
9244ad on LS of barrel
Bent non-matching bolt and Redfield peep on rear of receiver.
Front site base may be correct but looks like aftermarket sight (black painted brass) base has groves for a shroud.
in the dovetail.
Barrel has lathe turn marks in the middle but none on front or rear. Is this because the hand guard covered the middle so appearance was not an issue?

Questions:
Can bolt handle be straightened?
What stock should I look for to be period correct?
Where should the bayonet lug be? On barrel or band?
What barrel bands should it have?
What front and rear sights should it have?

I have searched the net some but am confused by all the variations and markings.
I prefer to restore what I have because I can space the money out a little vs. buying one that is correct. I also have a known good shooter with good bore and metal finish.

Information

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[kar98k]

Can bolt handle be straightened? - It should have a bent bolt, not straight
What stock should I look for to be period correct? - it would be a laminated beech, cupped buttplate stock.
Where should the bayonet lug be? On barrel or band? - the bayonet lug was attached to the front of the stock.
What barrel bands should it have? - should be stamped bands. I don't know if this is late enough for welded bands.
What front and rear sights should it have? - should have standard Mauser sights; front blade sight and the rear is a graduated (graduated from 100 meters to 2000) ladder sight.

honestly, this thing sounds like it's in pretty rough shape. it might end up costing more to return to military spec than it's worth.

[Calif-Steve]

Not worth it, sorry. The parts almost amount to a rifle and will exceed the cost of a nice WWII Mauser. Just hit the big gunshows and buy one off a table, have cash and do know what you are doing.

[mike webb]

I agree with Steve. If you want an example of a German K98k you are farther ahead financially to buy another rifle especially where yours is drilled for both a scope mount AND a peep sight. You could part out your sporter and be well on your way to a decent K98k. Even the Redfield peep will fetch around $100 by itself.

[technova]

I go to shows 2-3 times a month in the winter, I have not seen a k98 at any of them in over 3 yrs, other than sporter ones. I won't buy a barrel, bolt or action unless I inspect it first. I'll leave what I got in the cabinet for awhile and keep looking. I heard today of a smith who makes hunting rifles out of 98's, gonna see him and try a swap before he butchers a good one.

[Calif-Steve]

I see Kar98's all of the time at the BIG gunshows. Do not at the small, local shows. You may well have to drive out of state to locate one. Tulsa show is great and you need to ask the show promoter at your local show where you could find a nice Kar98. Start talking around to the military dealers. They will help you.

[technova]

Can't afford something like Tulsa, next to impossible with work I can't take any days off when I want. Missed Louisville by one day, by chance I was thru there.
I have done the others, dealers keep the 98's and trade/sell all the other countries.

[Calif-Steve]

Louisville, Knob Creek, Tulsa are all good shows. Tulsa has 1-2 shows a month. I have driven to Reno, Portland, San Diego, all good shows. Commerical row at Perry has piles of military rifles for sale. Shooters at Perry sell extra stuff. Just get active, good luck.