SMLE BSA Co model

[badfish]

First of all, as this is my first post an introduction.
I'm James and unfortunately I only have the one Lee Enfield (due to UK licensing laws and lack of space in my gun safe ) it's a BSA Co SMLE. and was wondering if there was any way I could date it? also what were the commercial models like compared to the military models.
Many Thanks
James

Information

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[Amatikulu]

Hello James, and welcome to milsurps.com. With the experts on Lee Enfield Rifles that we have on this forum, they will be able to tell you a lot about your rifle, if you can take some pictures of it, showing the various markings.

[ActionYobbo]

are you sure its a smle
has it got the charger guide/bridge?
I have several BSA.co rifles and they are the earlier LEC style

[Thunderbox]

BSA commercial rifles are probably the best quality of all Enfields - they were a commercial product.

Its often hard to date a commercial rifle, as BSA used a wide range of numbering sequences. Some number batches have been identified, but others are still unknown. However commercial rifles often bear clues in their proof marks or other marks - e.g. many were called up into military service during WW2 and show this evidence.

Post some nice sharp photos of your rifle, and we will try to deduce something.

We need:

- right butt socket
- left side of receiver
- the detail on both sides of the barrel under the rear handguard and just in front of the receiver.

[Beerhunter]

A BSA Commercial will have Birmingham Military Proof marks and so under the rear Handguard you will find the Birmingham Proof House crossed sceptres (they look like crossed swords) with a date code.

[badfish]

Hi thanks for the replies. It is definitely an smle it does have the charger bridge and the snub nose of the smle. I will get some pictures up, is there a special way of taking the wood work off the receiver?

[Beerhunter]

The top rear hand-guard (the only bit you need to remove) just clips on. GENTLY lever from the breech end. (In addition, there may be an article here on how to.)

[Badger]

What can you tell me about my rifle?

Regards,
Doug

[Amatikulu]

Yes, make sure you remove the fore stock first. If you remove the butt stock first, there is a good chance that the butt stock bolt will break the end of the fore stock at the butt socket.

To remove the fore stock, I start by removing the mid band first, then the nose cap. This should free up the front hand guard and you can gently pry the rear handguard lose. Next step is to turn the rifle over and remove the stud closest to where the mid band sits, followed by the trigger guard screw and the "King" screw or front trigger guard screw. This removes all the bits and pieces that hold the fore stock in place. Now all you have to do is turn the rifle back to the right side up and apply downward hand pressure to the forestock around the receiver. The fore stock should come free at this point.

[Beerhunter]

Yes, make sure you remove the fore stock first. If you remove the butt stock first, there is a good chance that the butt stock bolt will break the end of the fore stock at the butt socket.

To remove the fore stock, I start by removing the mid band first, then the nose cap. This should free up the front hand guard and you can gently pry the rear handguard lose. Next step is to turn the rifle over and remove the stud closest to where the mid band sits, followed by the trigger guard screw and the "King" screw or front trigger guard screw. This removes all the bits and pieces that hold the fore stock in place. Now all you have to do is turn the rifle back to the right side up and apply downward hand pressure to the forestock around the receiver. The fore stock should come free at this point.

However there is no need to remove any of this to look at the Proof marks under the hand guard. Additionally I would counsel a novice NOT to strip an SMLE to this level with out a good reason.