Hello all..first post here-been doing alot of reading, especially on the subject of fitting the fore end to my No. 4 Mark II I just recently purchased.
After removing the years of cosmolineicon, after oiling wood and metal, when assembling the rifle, I had a huge amount of play in the foreend-at the axis of the king pin.
Searching the forum, I discovered Mr. Laidlers article on fitting a fore end correctly...specifically, this paragraph pertaining to my problem:

" NO it shouldn’t! If it was meant to, it’d
be made of spring steel! Now for a little tip. The COLLAR. You
MUST have a collar and spring washer. This is what WE used to do.
Put the front trigger guard screw into the trigger guard and body
WITHOUT the washer or collar. Reverse it (that’s anti-clockwise …..)
until you hear it click over the start thread and tighten it BUT COUNT
THE TURNS UNTIL IT TIGHTENS AND LOCKS. Say, that it’s 7 ¼
turns to lock. Now do this with the collar fitted if it’s now, say 8 ½
turns, shorten the collar, a smidgin at a time, until the screw tightens up
at exactly 7 ¼ turns. That way, you KNOW that the screw is tight, the
fore-end is tight between the trigger guard and the screw and you are
not crushing the living daylights out of the fore-end. And if it feels a
little loose in a years time, then you can safely turn a few thou off the
collar."

Here is my problem...without the collar and lock washer-my king screw tightens up at 7 1/2 turns-no slop in axis movement.......with the collar and lock washer...it tightens up at 5 3/4 turns-lots of slop in axis movement....

It would seem to me-that the collar is too high, yet, according to Mr. Laidlers article...the need to reduce the length of the collar is dependent on the number of turns being HIGHER with the collar than without?
Is this a typo in the article-or am I not seeing/ understanding something?

Any help/info would be much appreciated

PS: I didnt notice any slop previous to purchasing/ cleaning-but there was a huge amount of old cosmo packed in there.
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