Rebarreling a 1918 ShtLE III* - A Couple Questions

[Hcompton79]

I have a short Lee Enfield III* manufactured in 1918 that unfortunately has a shot out barrel, many years of cordite loaded ammunition and probably neglect in civilian hands has resulted in a barrel with severe throat and muzzle erosion and pitting that shoots foot groups at 25 yards.

Anyway I have decided to work on rebuilding this rifle with a new barrel, fixing up the draws and perhaps a reblue/suncoriting. I know this is not necessarily a financially wise decision, but I have a bad habit of working on basket cases and like projects like this that can be a learning experience.

I have acquired a very nice looking replacement barrel, though it is somewhat sparse on markings and I am unsure of its origins. I have included pictures of it if anyone has any ideas, particularly what the "LC" (edit: perhaps "large cone"?) marking indicates.

Using a proper barrel vise and action wrench, I was able to get the old barrel off without damaging the receiver though it did require some heavy handed persuasion to do so as many years of corrosion and gunk in the threads did a good job of locking the barrel in place. This was easily cleaned away with a wire brush.

I thought I might ask here if anyone, perhaps one of the experts had any suggestions with putting on the new barrel. I have reviewed the fine article on breeching up the No.4 rifle by Peter Laidler, however I recognize that there are some differences with the No.1 rifle since it breeches up on the "inner ring" of the receiver vs. the very front shoulder as on the No.4 rifle

Fortunately this new barrel clocks at around 1/16 of a turn in underturn when tightened up by hand which from what I understand is just about perfect for a replacement barrel as it will clock in correctly when tightened up.

Now I do have some concerns with attempting to put on the new barrel, should the threads be dry vs. some kind of lubricant or anti-seize and hopefully not the suggestion I have seen elsewhere of Loctite? Also, where is the better place to clamp on the new barrel, the Knox form or the thinner portion of the barrel?

Then after the barrel is on and clocked correctly does anything else need to be done other than checking for correct headspace before test firing. I have seen some mention of a proofing charge being used that would expand the barrel and lock it in place, however I have nothing to corroborate this and it seems unlikely, as any charge large enough to expand the metal of the barrel would become a safety issue.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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