Stock Finishing

[P.W.Browning]

Actually Dollar, the original treatment was a heated immersion in Raw Linseed Oil or Pure Tung Oil, and I have done it.

The results I got were fantastic, simply great looking wood.

That being said, I found out through experimentation that I got identical results by heating a much smaller amount of oil, and brushing it on using a natural bristle brush. It saved the hassle of keeping and heating a few gallons of oil. Now I can do it with about a pint of oil.

I only used this method on new made, in-the-white stocks.

I really don't understand the almost emotional reaction against using the original treatments, Raw Linseed Oil or Pure Tung Oil.

Neither need to be thinned, just rub a small amount in by hand (about a teaspoon) for 10 to 15 minutes, rub it in enough to generate some heat, no need to cause blisters or anything. Let the stock rest for about 45 minutes, then wipe every drop you can off of with a paper towel. Give it a day to rest and do it again.

I think the problem people have with oil bleed is caused by two things. First overuse of whatever oil treatment they choose. I'm sure BLO is often slathered on unnecessarily heavy too, but since it dries to a candy shell, there is no bleed. Second, the oil bleed from most surplus stocks is due to cosmoline and 50 years of oil applied before you owned it seeping out, not so much from the few coats you (the new owner) applied. The new coats didn't help the problem, but certainly aren't the sole cause.

Remember BLO as you buy it today, is nothing like the heat polymerized linseed oil of 100 to 200 years ago. It's a modern consumer product primarily used to retard oxidation on garden equipment...just read the label. It is in no way related to the wood treatments specified by U.S. Ordnance. It's actually a nasty witches brew of all sorts of stuff you really don't need to expose yourself to. Raw Linseed Oil and Pure Tung Oil are not only appropriate, but so safe they can often be purchased as food grade.

-Patrick