Type 38 - 6.5X51 or 6.5X50?

[Truckman]

The reason I ask this, most of the 6.5Jap I come across (Hornady) is 6.5X51. I've shot some old Hornady (my Uncle's surplus) with no trouble, however I thought it was 6.5X50(but could very well be mistaken - I was more focused on the fact that it was 6.5Jap). A few months ago we picked up some new Hornady 6.5Jap that was 6.5X51. It didn't fit - in fact, trying to close the bolt damaged the outside rim of the cartridge.

Now I find this: PCI Ammo 6.5X50 Jap

After researching and reading here and links from threads, I've discovered that my Type 38 is from the Nagoya Arsenal ca. 1923-1933, if that makes a difference.

So, 6.5X50 or 6.5X51? Did I just get a funky box of the 6.5Jap from Hornady? Since the link I posted is sold out currently, any ideas where I can find some ammo that will work?

Heck, I thought 6.5Jap was 6.5Jap.....

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Milsurp Collector]

6.5x50

I handload my Japanese ammo (6.5 and 7.7) but if you want commercial ammo check out Graf Sons - 6.5x50 Japanese

[Arisaka Hunter]

I have three boxes of Hornady ammunition for this caliber.

One box of my Hornady the cases are PRVI brass and it states 6.5 X 51 Japanese on the case stamp.

The other two boxes of Hornady ammunition have Graf on the case stamp and 6.5 x 50 Japanese.

All three have functioned fine in my T38 Nagoya, and have been reloaded already once, fired and functioned fine again, and has been reloaded since.

I recently received a bag of 100 PRVI brass from Graf and sons. and the label on the bag states 6.5 X 51 Japanese, and the headstamp 6.5 x50

[Truckman]

Dang, and I thought I was on to something with the round not fitting properly. Hmm.....


It was like the round wouldn't go in all the way - sticking out just barely enough to not be able to close the bolt - literally about 1mm - that's why I thought that might be the problem. I tried closing the bolt on one and it actually took off a small piece of the rim of the cartridge (I think that's the right part, I'm a newbie so please excuse me if I've got the wrong terminology).

So what could be the problem then?

[jmoore]

Load the rounds from the magazine to keep from mangling the rims. Reduces the chances of breaking the extractor as well.

[Milsurp Collector]

Load the rounds from the magazine to keep from mangling the rims. Reduces the chances of breaking the extractor as well.

+1. The Arisaka uses Mauser-type controlled feeding. Rounds must be stripped from the magazine. If you put a round in the chamber then try to close the bolt you will have the type of problems you are having.

[Truckman]

Thanks for that tip! That may very well explain the issue I was having, because I was loading from the chamber, not the magazine.... After chewing 2 rounds up, I set it aside....

[Bruce McAskill]

The correct designation for the round is 6.5x50 and not the 6.5x51. If you get stuck for brass you can always make it out of .35 remington brass. Case neck is a little bit short but it works fine.

[DILLIGAF]

I know it's been a while since this thread has been active, but the original questions didn't appear to be answered so I thought I would add my 2 cents.

The original 6.5jap semi rimmed cartridge measured 51mm. For some reason it gained the designation 6.5x50. Most cartridges made in Europe, especially Yugoslav bras is correctly labeled 6.5x51. So it really doesn't matter as long as it is 6.5jap SR. as it depends on the manufacture if they label it 50mm or 51mm.

I also agree that you should load via the mag. Manual loading into the camber and then closing bolt may bugger up your rims. It has only happen once to me once before I found out about this. I don't know why it didn't happen the others times, but I no longer risk it.

Hope this helps out!
-Will