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Well, it hopefully will work without a hitch when I install it into my bolt, God willing and the creek don't rise.
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02-16-2010 04:51 PM
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All you can do is try, and the price is right.
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OT, but around these here parts its Creek w/ a capital "C". As in the "Native" American tribe that didn't take too kindly to the new invaders...especially when the new guys wanted to run off the current residents!
It may help explain the "don't" versus the "doesn't" that doesn't make sense otherwise. "Another bit of useless info..."
Last edited by jmoore; 02-17-2010 at 03:06 AM.
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Interesting notion. I'll keep it in mind. Let us hope my part will work, it should arrive by tomorrow or day after and I should be able to give a range report come Friday. Let us hope the Martini does not decide to give up the ghost and take mine! :P Those pits look nasty to me on the outside, and pushing 46,000 PSI or some such is ALOT of pressure on compromised metal... it was mentioned here that the pitting is insignificant. Why?
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Because it just doesn't matter as long as its on the outside. If it was deep enough to matter, the rifle would be surely U/S in other ways as well.
Of course, if the outside were to meet the inside via a few pits, that might compromise things a bit...
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Originally Posted by
jmoore
OT, but around these here parts its Creek w/ a capital "C". As in the "Native" American tribe that didn't take too kindly to the new invaders...especially when the new guys wanted to run off the current residents!
It may help explain the "don't" versus the "doesn't" that doesn't make sense otherwise. "Another bit of useless info..."
And all this time I thought that was a colloquial saying expressing hope it didn't flood.
When you look at pits consider that dovetails and sight screw hole are often .100 deep. That's a deep rust pit!
Last edited by TheDoubleD; 02-18-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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"Lord be willing and the crick don't rise."
Along the Susquehanna River, it most definitely is about hoping the water isn't gonna come over the dike.
Great thread to read through. Always something to learn.
Pete
i
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Not to jack my own thread, LOL. But good news! I worked with my shop teacher, and we cut off the tip, and used a drill bit to make a new pin. It looks fine. The only problem is I need to file it down and I do not know EXACTLY what protrusion length I need. Right now it reads about 0.068 on my combo feeler gauges protruding from the breech block face. I need to know how far back to file it. Should I leave it as a flat-topped cylindar or file it into a rounded "point"? I don't want to punch through the primer, I hear that's really dangerous.
Here are pictures!

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You nee three things:
A fine-cut diamond file (often sold as a "diamond lap"). Such a file is very useful for smoothing off burrs on trigger parts, FUBARed screw heads and the like.
A watchmaker's eyeglass (also a basic "must have") to examine the work as it progresses, noting the old saying "it is easy to file it off, but difficult to file it back on again".
And finally, patience. Wet the diamond file with oil and wipe off the tip frequently, to check progress with the eyeglass. The tip must be rounded off, to avoid sharp edges, but most definitely NOT pointed. Use that vital eyeglass to examine good examples from any bolt-action rifle to see what is needed. And with a fine-cut diamond file you can get a surface that looks almost polished to the naked eye.
Good luck!
Patrick
Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 03-05-2010 at 03:47 AM.
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