Help, a little trigger advice puhlease ...

[jmoore]

The nose of the long arm of the cocking piece should be rounded. As to what radius........., well, in simple mechanical terms, it could be the radius of the centre of the axis pin hole to the end of the long arm but I always make a neat slightly smaller radius. As JM says, all the working you do must be vertical/top to bottom on the sear and cocking piece

Now that's new! It makes sense, but it would be REALLY hard to detect over such a short distance as the face of the sear. So, a stoning jig w/ an undersize locating pin which bears against the rear of the pivot pin hole ought to do.

I reckon hand stoning would naturally tend to do the same, but it would be real easy to go too far.

I believe the US '03 Springfield forum guys had a much, much larger version of this same debate not long ago.

I will comply in the future!

[Edward Horton]

RJW NZ

In reference to the Canadian manual and bending the trigger guard to adjust trigger pull. NOTE: Wood crush between the bottom of the receiver and top of trigger guard assembly (fore stock). I have one manual that states if the trigger guard bushing falls bellow 1/2 inch the fore stock was to be replaced. Another manual states that if you have more than .010 wood crush the fore stock was to be replaced.

Bottom line, bed the rifle FIRST before adjusting the trigger pull and we don't throw good stocks away if they have a shorter than required bushing/collar or if they have too much wood crush.

The above reads as "sometimes" its necessary to bend the trigger guard to get an acceptable trigger pull, if due to wood crush the angle of the trigger guard exceeds normal limits.

This is why the Canadian No.4 manual states this about having a bent trigger guard:
"This condition may have to be corrected prior to adjusting trigger pull"

May meaning depending on the amount of wood crush the fore stock has.



My cocking piece bent was stoned to a 15 degree angle for a very slick pull.