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02-02-2011 06:37 AM
# ADS
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Contributing Member
Patrick, you did see the stock is broken under the forward sling swivel band. since it may have been a duffel cut (I am doubting that as it looks clean but also has a jagged spot that should not be there). look at the picture with that band as I took them with it together and pulled apart. I need to know what you think about putting it back together. Claven2 seems to know a lot on this sub.
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Advisory Panel
Yes I saw that, and there is no doubt - you need Dr. Claven2 for this patient! That broken leg is going to need a splint (2, I think).
Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 02-02-2011 at 05:47 PM.
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Thank You to Patrick Chadwick For This Useful Post:
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That looks like a clean rod base. The rod screws into it.
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Contributing Member
I just took it apart for the 8th time. the bolt side with the hole only goes in 1 inch (just a guess)and ends in wood, the other side, the metal is sunk into the wood and is threaded metal inset plug. could this be a modification or an elaborate repair. the T.St.V for sale didn't have a cleaning rod either? it doesn't appear they have them. also I would like to know what year it is ser#207XX. Said to be only 1000 made? I have the Ball book and will look again. I believe I can take top and front hand guard(this one has onewhether it's supposed to or not) and it looks sporterized and shootable. just need ammo.
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Advisory Panel
Cleaning rod socket - a repair option!

Originally Posted by
DaveN
I just took it apart for the 8th time. the bolt side with the hole only goes in 1 inch (just a guess)and ends in wood, the other side, the metal is sunk into the wood and is threaded metal inset plug. could this be a modification or an elaborate repair.
No, that is the perfectly normal threaded socket base for the end of the cleaning rod.
It seems that Bubba sawed through the stock, not knowing about the socket, and when he hit the rod socket the rest of the wood snapped off. That the hole it runs on a little way into the rear portion is simply production tolerance in the deep drilling. This also confirms that the rifle was converted from one of the '98 family - a custom rifle made from new would not have required the cleaning rod hole.
You could now measure the distance to the muzzle and establish the length of cleaning rod that you would need to complete the rifle. Just for looks, of course. But as a military cleaning rod is not required for this type of rifle, this hole offers an ideal possibility for inserting a glued-in strengthening peg to help bind the two halves together. I was also wondering how to align the two halves when gluing them together - this hole provides the answer.
How about it, Claven2? Hardwood peg? What do you recommend?
Patrick

Leave the handguard on! a) It is a proper part of the rifle b) if you remove it, you will need a different lower band. And the rifle will (in my eyes) just look messed up. Your call, of course!
As to the serial number: the Mauser factory records were lost in the war. Jon Speed has writtten a book that recreates them as well as can be from fragmentary information. But it is expensive, and from the markings we can date the rifle (in its present form) to between 1933 and 1939.
Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 02-03-2011 at 10:01 AM.
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Advisory Panel
Another piece of the puzzle!

Originally Posted by
Patrick Chadwick
Standschützen Verra???Tirol-Vorarlberg
Got it! It is:
"Standschützenverband Tirol-Vorarlberg"
This was a compulsory incorporation of all the shooting societies in the area after the "Anschluß" of Austria
with the 3rd Reich in 1938. Set up to foster paramilitary training. July 1944 was quite possibly the last meeting they ever had. As a Nazi-led organization it ceased to exist in 1945, when private possession of military weapons was forbidden by the Allies. It took some years before private shooting clubs could be re-established.
Patrick
Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 02-03-2011 at 08:45 AM.
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Contributing Member
Yes in deed it would just be for looks(cleaning rod). I have been thinking about how I would put this whole thing together. So that rod base was there originally? I thought about using a proper lengthed rod (and threads to go through the base and into the hole that would be plugged and threaded so it could act as a way to join the two and for stability two small pins or dowels on either side of hole so it fits together and doesn't twist. This would eliminate the need to use glue. I just want to pick it up and not have the top of the stock slide to the front sight. The best thing is, I'm in no hurry.
And thanks Patrick for all your help and invaluable information.
If I hear this correctly................this was probably sawed so as to transport in a duffel bag and the story of a vet bring back could actually be true. We may never know?
Last edited by DaveN; 02-03-2011 at 08:00 PM.
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Contributing Member

Originally Posted by
Patrick Chadwick
Thanks for the photos. Obviously a Gewehr 98-based rifle. Newly made in the late 30s or converted - not quite sure, but I don't see any obvious signs of scrubbed markings on the ring of the action body, so I tend to "newly made, using Gew. 98 parts".
If you want to fire it, then the 8.15x46 material will be available somewhere. This cartridge may be considered to be the
German
equivalent of the 32-40, filling a similar "ecological niche". For target shooting at 100 meters, maybe small- game hunting, but
not sniping at 1000 yards!
I would be interested to see how it shoots. Will you try it out? The major problem will be handling it without damaging the stickers.
An amazing find.
Patrick

Are you saying I can just buy 32 40 and shoot it in this rifle or just that its simularto this round for comparison. I'm searching for the actual round with little luck. just a note, the rear sight is 100-175 and max at 300 meters. It should be fun to shoot.
Last edited by DaveN; 02-03-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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