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You guys aren't so easy to stump. "Made in Japan" is close enough! I thought the sling was through the buckle wrong, so I changed it - can't remember but I think it was before I took the pictures. The buckle is completely flat on one side and only slightly rounded on the other. I now have the flat side toward the stock. I think the "JAPAN" marked sling probably dates to the 60's or 70's, but not sure. For a time, you didn't want JAPAN on stuff, then when they started turning out quality items, it wasn't so bad. I called that sling a "repro" but I guess if it came on a Japanese
built carbine, that wouldn't be accurate. Does anyone know (maybe TR?) the origin of those slings? I checked the headspace at the gun show - and it just barely starts to close on a "NO-GO." I read some threads last night that show the books are wrong about the rear sight - it's correct. Seems like I read the same thing about the bolt - I'll have to look again. I too, am thinking it just went through a depot update. Maybe just the bayonet lug, safety, and mag catch were all that were changed. Right now I'm kind of nervous about looking inside. I might need you guys' help on the hammer - I just can't make out Inland hammer markings. From the outside, the blue or black (shiny) trigger looks just like an almost new spare I have that's marked R.I. I've been debating about the checkering - could look worse after I try sanding. Actually the stock looks pretty good the way it is - just not military. I do have an "AI" marked Type 3 barrel band that I could put on, but haven't changed out parts on any of my carbines other than small internal parts because of wear or breakage. When I do open it up, I'm hoping to find a "two tone receiver" and lighter spot on the barrel where Type 2 band was located during the parkerizing. I just cleaned the muzzle and checked with an M2 Ball cartridge and got 7/32" - I think that's better than any other carbine I own. Thanks a lot for all the interest and positive comments! - Bob
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Last edited by USGI; 03-20-2012 at 09:36 PM.
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03-20-2012 09:33 PM
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The "Japan
" thing was a guess based on your hint. But I would seriously do a little digging on the Howa carbines. I wonder if it came from those???? I think the checking does look a bit fancy for a USGI weapon, but it does look like a quality job. You can always save it as a "Sunday-go-to-Meeting" (or range) dress-up stock and get you another - Inlands are fairly easy to find. I think sanding down that checking may put the strength of the stock at risk. You might get away with it if it were an Winchester stock, but not an H.I. Of course, Frank or Charlie could tell you more about that. I am partial to SA walnut M-2 potbellies as shooter stocks - you may want to find one of those and see if you can get that carbine shooting.
Just my two cents...
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I took the action out of the stock today and identified some of the parts. The recoil plate is Type 3 marked W.I. and it has the Type 2 screw with long threads. My books say that screw is wrong for an Inland. Funny thing about the screw is the head is off-center and wobbles when you turn it. Another bad thing about the stock is that even though the recoil plate shelf doesn't look compressed, it's loose in the stock and can be slid completely out.
I can see where the back of the receiver has made an imprint in the wood inside the stock. With the light just right, I can see remnants of a rack number on the bottom of the pistol grip. The handguard doesn't have an ID mark, but looks a lot like a post war "4 rivet" handguard I have on another carbine. The heads of the rivets have a "brass" color to them on both handguards. The Type 5 slide has the part number on the bottom. The hammer looks like it's marked HI. The sear is Type 2, but don't see a mark on top like some of my other carbines. The trigger pull measures 7 lbs. I got a better picture of the muzzle - minus all the lint. The receiver does have a "two-tone" look to it, but I'm not sure I see a lighter area on the barrel in front of the gas cylinder - maybe it's there. Here's a link to the thread that talked about the "two-tone" receiver and the method used to parkerize the barreled receiver on the late Inlands. https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=32401 Do you guys think it's like the one in the linked thread? Thanks! - Bob
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It's been through at least one rebuild for sure. The safety and magazine release were both updated and the hand guard is a commercial replacement and I'm guessing it was done when the stock was refinished. A round bolt would also be correct for it as would a type 2 barrel band.
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Thank You to Bruce McAskill For This Useful Post:
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Thanks for the answer on the handguard - maybe produced by one of the original GI contractors? The recoil plate screw with the long threads remains a mystery - the only information I have on them is from the Riesch book. I haven't taken the action apart yet, but have this notion that the bolt has been in the gun for a long time. I'm trying to think of a reason why it might have the earlier bolt. Maybe the owner's buddy had a carbine and they worked out a trade? Does anyone want to take a guess as to the markings on the bolt and it's internals? I might get it broken down sometime today. 'Tired Retired' wants to know about the wear lines on the bolt and if they match the receiver. Should I be looking at lines going lengthwise or around the bolt, where it turns? - Bob
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USGI,
I'd drip some super glue on the outer edges of the wood recoil plate seat, then screw down a recoil plate with foil wrapped on the bottom to clamp the glued area until it dries. It will fix any move ment of that loose shelf.
I picked up 2 carbines about a month+ ago.
2 Carbines Today + Extras
One a W code Underwood, the other a 5,2 mil Inland with barrel date of 5-44. Type II band marked //. Rear Adj sight PI with the chisel type stake. Flat bolt AI or OI and sideways number. Gas Cylinder marked BI. N marked frt sight. Original finish shows thin spot from position of type II band sitting. I believe this barrel, receiver and bolt to be original. The trigger housing is all WRA including the stock.
I'll try to get a few pictures this weekend of the rear sight stake. Not the punch crater style, more like a triangular punched stake.
I'd have to look back thru the CC newsletters, but I believe after the use of flip sights Inland used this type stake mark before we started seeing the round crater style punch stakes. Could be wrong, but best I recall right now.
W Underwood top,
Inland bottom,
Cheers,
Charlie-painter777
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Thank You to painter777 For This Useful Post:
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Charlie, The wood isn't oil soaked in the area of the shelf - I figure that's a plus. I was debating about sliding the shelf back out again and either going with Elmers or the runny super glue. It takes some maneuvering to get it back in place. Would the super glue give me time to get in place, or would it be better to just wick it in as you described - and is the super glue a better choice than the Elmers? Breaking down my action is going to have to wait until Friday night or Saturday. Thanks for the link to your "new" carbines. My Type 3 sight has round stake marks (front and rear) on the right side only. I know my SA front band is a replacement, but still question that flat bolt until I do some more research on it. Maybe somebody at Inland took it home in their lunch box and when the round ones came out, decided to bring it back and trade for the improved version.
- Bob
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Charlie,
Is this the type of staking you are talking about?
They were using both types I believe at Inland in the spring of '44.
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Hi Bob, this is how I fix the recoil shelf. HTH
Regards.....Frank
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=34249
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Thank You to frankderrico For This Useful Post:
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Originally Posted by
usgicollector
Dave,
I think thats it. I'll have to get a few pics this weekend.
thx,
Charlie
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