Raw Lineseed Oil

[Patrick Chadwick]

I agree with previous contributors, that basically raw linseed oil is what you need. The snag is, it dries extremely slowly, which is why trade painters use boiled linseed oil, and a lot of the art material has added siccatives to promote drying. As jmoore pointed out, comestible linseed/flax oil is ideal, and a little goes a very long way.
The only point in which I would differ from the gist of what has already been posted, is that I would NOT use mineral spirits to thin real linseed oil. Get some natural turpentine and it will provide a better finish. The proof (or at least what I hope is a convincing demonstration) is here:

Treacle rifle before:
Attachment 48246

Treacle rifle after:

Attachment 48247

When you have acquired an adequate amount of the flax/linseed oil, put some in a glass bottle and leave in in a dark place for a decade or so. As the years go by, the oil develops the consistency of runny honey, and can be applied drop by drop with a linen rag dampened with natural turpentine. Then you can achieve a finish as shown above without using anything else - apart from a quantity of elbow grease!

Here are a couple of other stocks treated with the same matured natural linseed oil + natural turpentine method.
Attachment 48248


Attachment 48249


Attachment 48250

Attachment 48252

I think this finish is thoroughly in "the spirit of the original" , and looks good as well!

Of course, if your butt looks like this, then you have a problem!

Attachment 48253

[WarPig1976]

For contrast, all three are finished with BLO and all stripping/refinishing took one week.
Attachment 48266Attachment 48267
Stock Remington 870 finish
Attachment 48268
After I was doneAttachment 48269Attachment 48270
And another one,,Attachment 48271Attachment 48272

[INLAND44]

Bubba; you can take a stock that has been treated with BLO or an old 'black' one that has soaked up decades of who-knows-what and strip it fast with lacquer thinner and it does not raise the grain or leave any residue. At that point a red/brown stain with a little black in it can be lightly wiped on before the RLO/Turp treatment.

[WarPig1976]

Bubba; you can take a stock that has been treated with BLO or an old 'black' one that has soaked up decades of who-knows-what and strip it fast with lacquer thinner and it does not raise the grain or leave any residue. At that point a red/brown stain with a little black in it can be lightly wiped on before the RLO/Turp treatment.

Agreed, I would just add it is vitally important when staining any hardwood to use spirit based stain, NOT oil based. Minwax is out, Chestnut Ridge or Plinkertons is in...

[Vic103]

I just built my own M1 carbine with a Fulton Armory barrel and receiver. I did a lot of searching and came across this web site:

http://www.garandgear.com/new-finish-for-your-m1-garand

I was real happy with the results:

[3154tm]

sure looks purty, where'd you find the stock?

[Vic103]

I also got that from Fulton Armory. It was a brand new unfinished walnut Boyd stock.

[imarangemaster]

Got a quart of raw linseed oil at a local hardware store today for $11 and change, and some more mineral spirits (since I found mine was evaporated when I got it out) for $7 and change. The local craft store wanted $17 for 8 ozs of RLO and didn't even have mineral spirits. Guess I will get started on the stock tonight.... PICTURES TO FOLLOW

[imarangemaster]

Well, first coat of 50/50 mineral spirits/raw linseed oil applied and worked gently in with a soft, worn out, old dish rag. Liberally applied and allowing to soak for about an hour. After 15 minutes, I used a clean white rag, and saw the surface grime already coming off. I was actually surprised because the stock looks very clean. After the hour, I will wipe it down, let it dry some, then tomorrow rub some 100% raw linseed oil in a little at a time.

[Bubba-7]

I do not say BLO will do a good job. It is fine to use on any and everything but a M1 carbine. And Inland 44, I would consider stripping off BLO and re-applying stain, ok but not for collector stocks. I know it will still look good, I am not a good enough wood worker to try it. My goal is to stop as many people from using BLO on carbines as possible in the first place. I know it is an up hill battle.
A stock saved from BLO is a stock saved.
I have used both mineral sprits and Turpentine and turpentine just stinks longer. But it does replace minerals in the wood.