ALL non-build-related chatter has been cleaned up to make this thread capable of being followed again by readers. Please keep any future posting relevant and on-topic.
Thanks!
Союз нерушимый республик свободных Сплотила навеки Великая Русь. Да здравствует созданный волей народов Единый, могучий Советский Союз!
The idea is to add a second disconnect function to the trigger mechanism, independent of the tip of the tripping lever making contact with the bolt. Even if the trigger mechanism is sealed and not readily removable, an open bolt gun can be made to fire auto by grinding the tip off the tripping lever, (inserting a grinding tip through the cocking handle slot), or by cutting a lengthwise slot through the sear engagement surface of the bolt to clear the tripping lever. With this modification, as soon as the tripping lever moves far enough to release the sear, the wedge added to the tripping lever contacts the selector, and cams the tripping lever away downwards, so the sear will reset. Perhaps a modification like this might make the idea of an open bolt design more palatable.
Thoughts?
Another slightly more involved way to achieve the same result.
This stops the bolt handle from being removed, and consequently the bolt. The screw is fixed with permanent locktite and the allen key recess is drilled out.
I think it would be awkward to grind the trip lever as is it hardened steel and held up by a rather weak spring. When force is applied it disapears into the trigger housing as it is designed to do.
Cut the handle off. Drill or grind the stump until bolt can be removed. A matter of minutes. Once the bolt is out, drill out remains of cocking handle from both sides, if the bolt is to be reused, otherwise just replace it.
Welding the recoil spring guide retainer solidly to the head casing would keep the bolt in longer, the stock could still be removed.
It is not easy to cut off the handle or grind the stump down as it has been hardened. ( Forgot to mention that: ) Getting the remains of the handle out would be no easier a the handle is a loose fit in the hole. Yes the bolt could be replaced, but it would be quicker to replace the entire gun, or use a rubber band
Welding the recoil spring guide retainer in place would not be acceptable to me as it would be almost impossible to clean the gun.
Hardened steel is irrelevant to a cutting disc and grinder. Or a carbide drill bit. A common hardware store masonry bit will cut steel if sharpened.
It could be argued that what is acceptable to you is secondary to what is acceptable to the good folks who have classified your guns as prohibited. And it is important that the Mk. V cocking handle function as it should.
I am now in a postition to be able to ask exactly what modifications are acceptable for FRT numbers to be issued, as they are returning the guns for modifications to be made. I will post what's acceptable when I have it in writing.
PM
