Help! Misaligned Pads on No 4.

[vintage hunter]

I may be totally out to lunch here but does the top surface of the front pad not look a wee bit higher than normal?

I agree, it does look a bit high.

is it possible the front pad is non-standard forcing the installer to put the rear pad higher than normal.

Seems there was a thread a while back involving a repro sniper with similar misalignment issues caused by an out of spec front pad.

[smle addict]

I was thinking the same thing, Ridolpho. I thought my eyes were broken, so I ran out and dug my 43 T out of the safe too. I took two pics for of the front pad for comparative purposes. The OP's pads do look taller (thicker?) than an original set.

[Surpmil]

ok heres the photos.

That there is what we call "FUGLY" over here; I'm sure it needs no explanation.

The rifle's a beaut though; don't give up on it. Any retired tool & die maker should be able to do far better than that.

Brian, when are your going to start doing these for people so they get them done properly and properly collimated, at least on this side of the water?

[Peter Laidler]

Listen in chaps........ The front pad can be 1" higher and thicker providing that once it is correctly aligned for its l/r axis THE REAR PAD IS SEATED TO SUIT THE OPTICAL ALIGNMENT (of the tele) WITH THE MECHANICAL AXIS OF THE BORE. It really doesn't matter how wide or high the pad is - within the bounds of sensibility of course

After sleeping on it, a repair will be a doddle. Maybe not pretty but easily doable with the parts he has. Just my opinion as a time served apprentice

[bigduke6]

After looking at the OP's rifle again it looks like its not long been out the wrapper, (another mistake at some point) but thinking outside the box , I,d remove both pads and plug all the holes and finish as best I could, and return it to a No4 Mk2. It will never be a silk purse again but not far off.

Easy repair and if done correct you would hardly see any of the plugs, I wouldn't bother trying to save it as a T.....

For a T replica etc I,d start again but on an old Sporter or target rifle as the starting blocks...........

[Peter Laidler]

Good advice there Geoff. Then, when you get your ex sporter, get someone who knows what he's doing to set about it as per the details. There must be about 20 others on the forum that have followed them and have come up trumps.

[jr57]

[QUOTE=Ridolpho;356747]I may be totally out to lunch here but does the top surface of the front pad not look a wee bit higher than normal? I dug my '43 T out of the safe and, in the OP's photos it seems a bit higher. is it possible the front pad is non

Hello, The pads I handed over were Numrich ones and I can only assume that he used them.

The scope might not look too bad on the phots but believe me its miles out of collimation way over to the left and low. The ret is optically centred.

[CINDERS]

Just from the depths of what brain I have still intact from fast motor bikes and loose lady's or is that loose motor bikes and fast lady's anyway I seem to recall the screws were slotted and the action and pads heated to the point the silver solder melted into the slot whilst the screw was being done up hence when it all cooled the screws were in there locked as tight as and not moving am I correct in this I cannot remember if it was in P L's book or another one I read somewhere in time......

[Roger Payne]

If you embark on another conversion I'd use a set of pads that Fultons make - they're superb. Not sure if the rear pad comes ready configured to the 'angled' receiver ledge as on your No4 Mk2, or with the radiused bottom to the pad as per most original 4T's (as produced by BSA), but if not it's get roundable.

[villiers]

If that´s the only probelm (`over to the left and low´) the Canadian scope mount could (maybe) solve the probelm. A sloped picatinny rail is not hard (or expensive) to get hold of. And windage can be adjusted to (almost) any extent. The mount is an exact repro of the official Can. Army model. You´d then not be limited to the original Brit. scope rings.