those types of attachments on the front glacis plate with them deployed in the Pacific
Those are just added plate steel, meant to close the ports there. Now you can't sit below and drive. I'm sure there was something about not being able to seal yourself up inside and drive in order to licence it for driving...
75 grand is dirt cheap. Mind you, the engine is wrong and the gun is likely fake. Last I heard a fully operational Firefly runs 300 grand. And all tanks handle well. A Leopard will stop on a dime and give 9 cents change.
A 2001 Mini Cooper is nothing like a '69 Mini.
Well, they're the same classic shape Sunray! (thread 12) Chalk and cheese to drive. I know someone who lives close to me and runs a crane hire company who has a Sherman Firefly. Ex UK Army and sold to the Portugese under a US arranged lend lease disposal plan in the late 40's or so. Cost £600 to buy and £400 (or vice verca) to ship back to the UK back in the mid 80's. The real rub was that when it landed at Weymouth, our Customs made him remove the barrel or cut it off in front of the mantlet.
The picture of the Sherman in post 1 looks like it's got the correct steel shod tracks and not the more modern type with rubber inserts. I was once told that we in the U.K. are NOT allowed to drive tanks or other armoured vehicles on public roads if they have all steel tracks. Only tracked vehicles with rubber shod tracks are permitted on public roads in the U.K. because of the potential road damage. Is this information correct?
I bet that stung Peter to do that to the vehicle I have to wonder at times if the neon lights these people live in like customs gives them sort of brain fade, of course he had a full compliment of shells for it under his bed what a pity to cut the barrel off.
Wonder who got a rocket for this lot go to 00.54 seconds ooops;
Cinder's, regarding your post 9; using 100% Glycol instead of 50/50 water mix. That is not actually a good idea; unless you increase your radiator surface area. Glycol does boil at a higher temp, that's true; but it does not displace the heat as quickly a water. So while the car is not actually boiling; it will probably be running too hot. That's why the Glycol is diluted. In fact in Saudi Arabia we often used to reduce the glycol to between 30 or 40 percent to increase the water content for better cooling; then fit lower temp thermostats to get the system fully flowing early and also have electric fans cutting in full speed well below 100°C .
Peter, It's not really the boiling point that matter's with the waterless coolant; it's the speed that which it transfer's the heat that counts. I'm not familiar with the product you mentioned; but if it does all it say's on the tin; I'm sure the car manufacturer's would use it!
If you've tuned the Mini then maybe you need to uprate the cooling system to compensate for the extra heat generated
I occasionally fantasize about the neighbor's reaction to a big rig pulling up with a tank on the back, Russian surplus is reasonably affordable and easy to get, mostly early to mid Cold War stuff as T34s are going up but not yet unobtainable... it'd have to be something I could take out to WWII weekend in Reading.
Has anyone had a bad experience with (EVANS) waterless coolant in car/vehicle engines. Reason I ask is that I have it in my 2001 Mini Cooper and it's perfect but want to put it in my old 1969 Cooper S but...... I know it boils at 171 degrees and you can run the system without a radiator cap (I have, in order to boil off the water that remained in the system after the change). So, to recap, anyone got anything bad to say about it?
Peter,
I've followed a few muscle car buddies that use Evans in closed systems. Both have late 60's Pontiac GTO's. Which IIRC call for some special mix that was waterless. My Father had a new GTO The Judge he special ordered in 1969, thus my interest in their cars.
I believe the boiling point of Evans is above 350F+ IIRC. Most said they like it because of the capability of the higher heat range (if needed). At the higher heat temps water will turn to steam and steam means pressure build up.... aka blown hoses... etc. Remember that water has oxygen in it, so by not having water in it, it shouldn't cause the related corrosion and electrolssss (sp?) deposit reaction.
It should have a lower viscosity level than water/water mix types which should limit any chances of cavitation (mainly at the water pump)
Evans has to have plenty going for it because I see and hear of it's use under the most extreme conditions by Pro drag racers, Moto cross, baja, off shore racers and even the diesel guys.
I have 1 concern I'll pass along though, maybe you'll agree.
If out on the road and you blow a hose, I'd keep a gallon with me so that after the repair, you'd be able to top off and be on your way.
Being that you couldn't AFAIK mix it with water.
Originally Posted by CINDERS
PM
