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Springfield Armory's stocks don't need oiling because they're in a temp and humidity controlled environment. Look at antique firearms, instruments, furniture. If it wasn't cared for the wood shrivels like Mr. Happy in the pool.
The 4:1 mix? That's basically "Gunny Paste" which is in reality a wood waxing recipe going way back before there where Gunnys.
I wouldn't use it because, well, why wax a milsurp stock?
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to WarPig1976 For This Useful Post:
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10-23-2017 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by
WarPig1976
Springfield Armory's stocks don't need oiling because they're in a temp and humidity controlled environment. Look at antique firearms, instruments, furniture. If it wasn't cared for the wood shrivels like Mr. Happy in the pool.
The 4:1 mix? That's basically "Gunny Paste" which is in reality a wood waxing recipe going way back before there where Gunnys.
I wouldn't use it because, well, why wax a milsurp stock?
Well why is the stock missing that glossy finish I see every other m1903 rifle have? (Btw mine is a Remington)
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Mauser1947
Well why is the stock missing that glossy finish I see every other m1903 rifle have? (Btw mine is a Remington)
Deja vu!
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Mauser1947
Well why is the stock missing that glossy finish I see every other m1903 rifle have?
That's been answered.
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Legacy Member
Like others have mentioned, decades of handling causes the wood fibers to themselves be polished. Regardless of the type of penetrating oil you apply, the hardness and smoothness of the wood fibers on the surface are responsible for the look you are going for. Try a little 000 steel wool to slightly buff the wood fibers when you apply another coat of BLO
, or whatever penetrating oil you are using. Rough wood (how it was originally) will never take on that aged, deep semi-gloss look unless the wood fibers are compressed or smoothed. Handling, and many years of polishing and oiling will create the perfect look, but polishing the wood with a little steel wool, or other fine abrasive, will come close.
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Researching while I was restoring an O3A3 and I found that handguards were frequently broken and replaced. This resulted in the handguards being of a different finish than the rest of the stock. This was born out when I found many replacement handguards still available. Apparently the military ordered a large number and had them on standby for replacing the broken ones.. So hand guards of a different finish than the rest of the stock is very common.
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Contributing Member
All I would add is this, as a military rifle, the finish should be a nice Semi luster, only my opinion, but I hate a glossy Military stock, strictly the preserve of sporting rifles...
I always find the best way of achieving this (assuming the wood is dry and clean) is to use a 3M red scotchbrite to give the wood a silky finish and slightly compress /Polish the fibers, then Raw linseed oil
until it stops drawing in, followed by buffing with a microfiber cloth to the desired finish.
Works for me anyway, everyone seems to have their personal favorite approach.
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Originally Posted by
Mauser1947
I've been trying to put numerous coats of
BLO
on the stock
After first putting multiple coats of BLO
on it.... How is it that one could expect RLO to penetrate the now sealed in Hard BLO finish?
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Thank You to Brian Dick For This Useful Post:
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Brian,
I agree 100%
Just worried if he keeps lathering on the RLO OVER THE BLO
he may end up with a sticky mess.
If the BLO
will allow some RLO to penetrate, I'd go real easy on the RLO.
If mine, at this current point, I'd leave as is also.
Over time with buffing and regular handling, down the road he could then try and see if she'll accept RLO.
Cheers
Charlie-Painter777
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