M!-Garand/ New Barrel & Can't Hit Anything!

[Mike in NC]

From your post, I took it you live in Raleigh, NC. You might want to consider driving up to the Richmond, VA gunshow next weekend, January 9 & 10. Gus Fisher (Gus's Garands) can do an inspection on it and let you know if something is really out of kilter. I think he only charges something like $25 to $30 for a very detailed inspection, not exactly sure, it has been a while since he did one of mine. He can fix most problems right at the show, unless it needs barrel work. He was the USMC chief armorer for the NM M14 rifle team when he was at Quantico. He really knows Garands, carbines, M14's, and just about any millitary rifle / pistol. Best to get to the show early because the work piles up early for people wanting Gus to work on their rifles.

[Charlie59]

If the front sight had to overhang the base on one side or the other to zero, then it was out of specifications.

Thank you.

[jmoore]

As a bit of trivia that many here already know, the wide base gas cylinder was adopted to allow more M1s to pass post test fire/zero inspection. It gave the assemblers a bit more leeway and saved a great deal of time.

BTW Charlie59, just hit the thanks button at the bottom right of a post- It also saves time!

[cuppednlocked]

Were you shooting at the Wake Co range? I shoot there fairly "regularly" with my Garand. I'm FAR from an expert, but can give you some help. Bring your old barrel and I'll gauge it for you too (to see if things were as bad as the smith said).

I suggest coming to one of the Garand matches held in the eastern part of the state (Pitt Co Wildlife Club and Down East Garand Shooters). An old USMC armorer comes to both when he's feeling well enough and can help you out with any problems you may be having.

[Mark in Rochester]

Do any of you guys know what the plus/minus tolerances were, or did the barrel have to be dead nuts on the money? BTW, I'm anxious to see if this lets us know if his rifle shoots alright.

Charlie

think barrel alignment spec is +/- 20 minutes

[Calif-Steve]

Let me get this straight. A gunsmith told you your barrel was fine so you replaced it and your troubles began. Can you get that rifle to Gus Fisher? Do it!! He has worked on 3 of my Garands and they all run better, not worse. By the way, Gus is silly cheap. Good luck.

[Bob Womack]

Let me get this straight. A gunsmith told you your barrel was fine so you replaced it and your troubles began. Can you get that rifle to Gus Fisher? Do it!! He has worked on 3 of my Garands and they all run better, not worse. By the way, Gus is silly cheap.

...and a nice guy.

Bob

[Devil Dog]

"think barrel alignment spec is +/- 20 minutes"

That may very well be true, but how do you measure 1/3 of a degree?

[Dave Waits]

Gentlemen, Gus Fisher imparted his indexing method to me and it's simplicity at it's finest. All you really need is a barrel vise, a receiver wrench, and a 360-degree Electrician's protractor with a Magnetic base(I picked up mine at Sear's hardware for $15.00)

1.) Slide barrel into vise all the way and tighten.
2.) Slide Gas-Cylinder most of the way on.
3.) Set protractor on front sightbase after removing front sight(And making sure it's flat with no burrs) perpendicular to barrel. Read protractor arrow and mark it with the sliding red dog on the protractor face.
4.) Handscrew receiver onto barrel until handtight. Start final draw with wrench applied to front of receiver, stopping shy of straight up.
5.) Lay protractor across rear of receiver right behind sightbase on the flat where the hashmarks for windage are, commence final draw.
6.) Watch dialface and needle, stop when needle is 1/3 of way to Dogmark from last degree-mark on dial( You may have to eyeball this as it's less than 1-degree). Recheck front mark by putting protractor on front sightbase to make sure it didn't move, needle should be pointing at Dogmark.

One more thing, when correcting an underdrawn barrel always check headspace for minimum safe headspace(Close on Go-Gauge).
You're done.

I've done approximately 25 barrel so far with Gus' method and every one was dead on at 100 with front and rear sights centered. all that was needed was elevation adjustments.

[Mark in Rochester]

"think barrel alignment spec is +/- 20 minutes"

That may very well be true, but how do you measure 1/3 of a degree?

The level divisions equal 0.005" per foot

that equals .0004 degrees or 0.24 minutes

so if you have a level in the front and one on the back and they are less than one division apart you are good to the spec