No.4 (T) for $20 build thread

[jonh172]

Just did a loose fitting of the parts to see how its coming along... and take a few pictures of course

This is the Bracket I decided to use. It came with the scope in this unfortunate state. I believe (just go with it) that they came off the same rifle as not only had the bracket been mutilated in an attempt to "sporter" but the scope had its identity filed off, for what i can only assume was to remove anything that associated it with a military rifle.... or save weight :/

The scopes optics were very dark so I shipped it off to a specialist in the field of No.32's and he not only restored it internally but gave it a coating of Suncorite 259! Aside from the missing engravings (the metal is now too thin to re-engrave) it is good as new.

The bracket is solid, just ugly, and I cant bring myself to mount a repro on it so I'm sticking with the one that belongs with the scope!

Butt stock is also an old refinished (T), the last pic, blurry as it is, shows an old serial #.

Cheek piece is repro and I am in need of screws, any suggestions?

[CINDERS]

From an old thread ~ Straight out of Peter Laidlers and Ian Skenertons book

An Armourers prospective : .303 No 4 (T) sniper rifle and the Holland and Holland Connection


Cheek mount screw were as follows: Wood screws.

1 1/4" x No 8 front hole
1 1/2' x No 8 rear hole

Steel or brass screws were both acceptable.

The piece can be held with lacky bands and the user of the rifle can fit it to their desired position then just say use a longish nail to pin point the holes and drill & mount.

---------- Post added at 02:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:34 PM ----------

Thats looking really grand John and what a save I would not be fussed on the bracket leave it as it its part of the rifles history I know as you said it appears to belong to that scope one may hope that it may colminate to the rifle but seeing as it wears new pads (Or did you use the old ones) then after you have got her together a range report is the go.
Have you got the trigger guard collar front in place as thats required still its not quite finished yet but very close.

[Peter Laidler]

The fit of the butt at the butt socket and rounded edges - and general condition would not be acceptable. The cheek rest should not be central but canted to the left to support your right cheek

[jonh172]

Thanks CINDERS, I actually have the DVD for Capt. Laidlers book and forgot how in depth the information is in there!
The stock collar is in place yes, but the whole stock is not properly fit yet, I haven't checked for up pressure at the muzzle end nor checked for hand guard clearance, this was just a photo op.
The pads are originals but not to this rifle, generously donated by a forum member! They need to be installed still and I have the silver solder to do it right. Winter project at this point.

This whole project would be nowhere near where it is if it wasn't for the generosity of the group! Pads, pad screws, hand guards and proper taps have all been generously donated by forum members. When I finally get this rifle built I will post a list of everyone's donations so they all can be appreciated for their generosity.

The fit of the butt at the butt socket and rounded edges - and general condition would not be acceptable. The cheek rest should not be central but canted to the left to support your right cheek

I did notice the fit wasnt very good, wanting to use this piece, would it be acceptable to file the edges back a bit to sharpen them back up? Then shave the socket stem back for a proper fit?
Maybe not enough meat left to work with?
The cheek piece isnt installed yet, just resting there for pictures.

[rgg_7]

Your scope pads would be "soldered" to be correct not "silver soldered". If you don't know how to do this PM or email. I've done a few!.On the fit of the butt - I'd ensure its fully seated against the butt socket...appears to be not fully seated. Once this is done there may be enough wood to to gently improve on the over zealous stock "rounding". Cheek riser needs to be fitted on centre..predrill your holes once marked using the riser as a template - I do the front 1st then the rear. This way you don't get misalignment.

Keep us posted on the project - great effort.

Ron(Canada)

---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 AM ----------

Sent you a PM on CGN for correct steel cheek riser screws. Ron(Canada)

[jonh172]

Your scope pads would be "soldered" to be correct not "silver soldered". If you don't know how to do this PM or email. I've done a few!.On the fit of the butt - I'd ensure its fully seated against the butt socket...appears to be not fully seated. Once this is done there may be enough wood to to gently improve on the over zealous stock "rounding". Cheek riser needs to be fitted on centre..predrill your holes once marked using the riser as a template - I do the front 1st then the rear. This way you don't get misalignment.

Keep us posted on the project - great effort.

Ron(Canada)

---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 AM ----------

Sent you a PM on CGN for correct steel cheek riser screws. Ron(Canada)

Oh yes of course! Just solder!
Ive got k98 turret mounts on my mind...

Thanks for tips! Ill PM you if I run into issues!.

[Lee Enfield]

your cheek rest appears modelled on the Australian No1MkIII(HT) version.

[Peter Laidler]

I'd get a new butt because shortening your to remove the rounded edges and pixx-poor fit will alter the geometry of the stock bolt and 'wrist' of the butt. If it has some historical connection with that rifle then save it, but otherwise, in my bit-part opinion, it's toast.

[CINDERS]

Pics of how the cheek rest is fitted to my T just as I purchased it from a chap, scope covers are repro's as the originals were reduced to end caps only.

[rgg_7]

Cheek riser screws mailed. Ron(Canada)