Monkey Business

[WarPig1976]

My dad was a custom cabinet maker and I apprenticed under him in my youth. I chose a different path in life but a few things stuck with me. A glued joint is always stronger then the wood itself if done properly.

I use good old Elmer's wood glue or depending on the repair 2 part epoxy with dowels,biscuits,SS threaded rod and fiberglass where needed. Wanna get your adhesive deep in a crack? Use a vacuum bag they sell for clothes storage. Glue it, clamp it, put it in the bag over night.

[CINDERS]

That's what I would call a really well stippled trigger, no slippage there by cripes.

[Patrick Chadwick]

PVA remains slightly elastic, but is strong enough that if you glue two pieces of softwood together, and then deliberately break the joint (no hearsay - I tried it myself before starting on the Monkey Tail) the wood will fail rather than the glue.

Here is a photo of the test piece:

Attachment 48682

[tbonesmith]

There is also a great variation in the quality of PVA glues available. The best stuff I have ever used is this Yella Tera: http://www.sunshinecoasttoyshobbies....7&category=111

I always thought it was PVA anyway... Aliphatic resin... absolutely magic stuff.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

I generally use the old "slow" Araldite.

Plenty of time to tweak positions with that stuff, especially in cold weather.

A couple of tricks when using it:

Cut these into long (at least a metre) strips about half an inch (12-13mm) wide and store in a plastic bag with "French Chalk" or any "Talcum" powder; scent is optional.

Cut these into long (at least a metre) strips and store in a plastic bag with "French Chalk" or any "Talcum" powder; scent is optional.

CAREFULLY apply a hot air gun (Paint-stripper on "low" setting) to drive out moisture AND old oil from the damaged area.

THOROUGHLY degrease the wood: "Carburetor Cleaner" works a treat.

If you think the repair requires "hidden" dowels, fit them now: have fun!

Apply a thin coat of epoxy to both parts.

Carefully line up the pieces.

And now for the "tricky bit".

Wipe off any oozing excess glue NOW.

Slowly wrap the rubber strips around the repaired area, stretching it as you go. This applies surprisingly high pressure to the join but leaves no nasty clamp marks and doesn't require fancy jigs.

Put the job somewhere warm (next to the water heater is OK) and go away for 24 hours (like it says on the instructions for the glue). The stock has probably been broken for decades; what's another day?

After a nervous 24 hours, unwrap the goodies. There will probably be the odd spot where the epoxy has bonded rubber to wood; whip out your best scalpel and CAREFULLY trim it back. If necessary, apply heat using a small soldering iron to soften the epoxy under the offending rubber remains and then use the scalpel.

After that, the usual "tidying-up" is required before applying your oil of choice to the very thirsty timber.

[WarPig1976]

I think your talking about rubber hose Bruce correct? I use the stuff they wrap around your arm to draw blood, I get it at medical supply store.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Rubber hose? Do you mean like surgical tubing, the pale brown stuff that is also handy for sling-shots etc?

Being a cheapskate, I use long strips of vulcanised rubber, cut by hand from old vehicle inner-tubes. Your local tyre shop should have a few out the back. The other useful thing about inner-tube rubber is that you can cut it as wide or narrow as you need for a particular job.

I would think you would have to be very careful around solvents and such with surgical tubing, as it is not "vulcanised", hence the translucent brown colour.

[WarPig1976]

Yup, surgical tubing, No, never had a problem but then again I don't remember ever mixing the two either. Inner tube...hmmmm..my boys over the years have built a stockpile of them in my shed. Wish I thought of that..

[Patrick Chadwick]

I generally use the old "slow" Araldite.

Good idea, the trick is to find it around these parts. And the rubber strips are an A1 idea! (Yes, I did have to apply some "jiggery-pokery")

[Bruce_in_Oz]

It is a bit odd that you have trouble finding "the good stuff' in Germany. After all, Araldite was invented just "over the fence" in Switzerland, just after WW2.

I guess everyone is in a hurry these days, but the "5 minute" varieties don't allow time for "soaking into" the wood or "fine adjustment" of the pieces.

HUGE improvement on the dodgy old casein-based adhesives, though.

"Interesting" glue is apparently why some Mosquito bombers had problems with engines "falling off in flight" whilst serving in "tropical" places like India; VERY exciting if you were driving one at the time. Pretty exciting for the locals on the ground too: " Look mum, it's raining Merlins!"