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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
rcathey
Surface prep is key with the cold blue. Degrease *very* well, apply multiple coats, and oil it well.
I used Oxpho-Blue on the top of a Colt 1911 from 1953 where I had to plug holes from an aftermarket sight rail. The color matched well and it’s has stood up to lots of range time. Can’t really say how it wears since I don’t carry the gun but it hasn’t rubbed off from simple handling.
Yep, have used Oxpho before with nice results.
---------- Post added at 11:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:56 AM ----------
Originally Posted by
Eaglelord17
The two gauges that matter for headspace to the general shooter is 'go' and 'field' (should be called 'Min' and 'Max'). That is where the tolerances are for the cartridge. In this case provided it didn't close on the 'field' gauge and closes on the 'go' gauge your set in regards to headspace.
Yep, I should be o.k.
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11-16-2017 11:57 AM
# ADS
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Advisory Panel
headspace on a 1917 isnt done the same as a 1903.
dont cold blue
spend the money and do it right..
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
chuckindenver
headspace on a 1917 isnt done the same as a 1903.
dont cold blue
spend the money and do it right..
The rifle is owned by a relative of mine, who simply wants a deer hunting machine, and probably won't have a shot over 100 yards. I did remove the extractor, and just used the bolt body to check head space. he is a really tight guy with money, so I'm simply going the cold blue road, and I would prefer to slow rust blue it. I re-did a 1924 Savage 99 (that I own), using Pilkington's slow rust bluing, and it came out great.
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Advisory Panel
keep in mind,,, you get what you pay for..
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