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Thread: No. 4 stock finishing

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  1. #11
    Deceased arado's Avatar
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    I use Watco Teak oil. Designed for dense woods. Works well. On my FAL"S I use truck bed liner. Gary

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #12
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    Each country sets its own health and safety standards and the United Statesicon lags behind the rest of the world in this respect. Canadaicon and the UK have higher safety standards than the United States and I’m just warning my fellow Americans to read the MSDS sheets before choosing which linseed oil to use for your hand rubbed finish.

    Please note that American BLOicon contains toxic chemicals and the Britishicon BLOicon does not.

    http://www.newparks.com/PDF/MSDS/SOL...LinseedOil.pdf


    British boiled linseed oil below

    SAFETY DATA SHEET
    PALE BOILED LINSEED OIL
    Use / description of product: No significant hazard.
    Main hazards: No significant hazard.

    ECOLOGICAL INFORMATION
    Mobility: Readily absorbed into soil.
    Persistence and degradability: Biodegradable.
    Bioaccumulative potential: No bioaccumulation potential.
    Other adverse effects: Negligible ecotoxicity.

    http://www.abbey-chemicals.co.uk/MSD...OIL%20MSDS.pdf

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    I've read about all the dangerous chemicals I use at times, scared the crap out me, so I quit reading.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Horton View Post
    Read the MSDS Sheets

    Real boiled linseed oil gives much better durability and water protection, fake non-boiled linseed oil does NOT plus it is TOXIC.

    Toxic Linseed oil
    1. Hazardous Ingredients, Cobalt Neodecanoate, Cobalt 2-Ethylhexanoate, Mineral Spirits, Diethylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether, Manganese Neodecanoate, Manganese 2 Ethylhexanoate
    2. Potential Chronic Health Effects:
    Signs and Symptoms: Effects of overexposure include irritation of the nose and throat,
    irritation of the digestive tract and signs of nervous system depression (e.g., headache,
    drowsiness, dizziness, loss of coordination and fatigue).

    3. Skin Protection: Prevent skin contact. Wear chemical-resistant flexible-type gloves
    (neoprene, PVC, butyl, nitrile or similar). Depending on conditions of use additional protective equipment may be necessary such as face-shield, apron or coveralls.

    http://www.newparks.com/PDF/MSDS/SOLVENTS/BoiledLinseedOil.pdf



    Nontoxic Linseed oil

    1. Linseed oil, CAS # 8001-26-1, % by Weight 100 (100% pure linseed oil)
    2. Toxicological Data on Ingredients: Linseed oil LD50: Not available. LC50: Not available. (no toxic additives)
    3. DOT Classification: Not a DOT controlled material (United States).

    http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Linseed_oil-9924500
    Three are three types of Linseed oil on the market in the USAicon.

    Raw linseed oil, can be food grade and is edible. No MSDS

    What is commonly marketed as Boiled Linseed Oil in the USA, this BLOicon is a combination of RLO and driers to speed film drying and hardness, and well have a MSDS sheet. I would wear rubber gloves.

    You can also get traditional BLOicon, also called Purified BLO now days, it is raw linseed oil that is purified and refined through the addition of oxygen to produce boiled or "cooked" linseed oil. This process eliminates proteins and improves aspects such as the drying time, shine and purity. No MSDS.

    Be sure of the product you are using. Purified BLO is a specialty product and can be found at boat supply shops.


    So, what is the "CORRECT" finish to use on a No4 MkI? BLO or RLO? I've read both.
    Last edited by madcratebuilder; 01-15-2010 at 07:36 PM.

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    Legacy Member jona's Avatar
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    BLOicon is the specified finish. RLO was for wartime emergency. So, if there is no war, use BLOicon.

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    Raw linseed oilicon is available as "flax seed oil" in the health food section of your supermarket, WalMart, and online

    http://www.walgreens.com/store/catal...n=push-product

    Amazon.com: Now Foods Flax Seed Oil, 24-Ounces: Health Personal Care

    Raw linseed (flax seed) oil takes longer to dry than boiled linseed oil, and like all linseed oil it provides poor protection against moisture, but it oxidizes to an attractive reddish hue much more than BLOicon.

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    So I take it its a bad idea to contemplate using shellac on a restoration then, will wax bring an equivalent shine?

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    Quote Originally Posted by EnfieldNutt84 View Post
    So I take it its a bad idea to contemplate using shellac on a restoration then, will wax bring an equivalent shine?
    Neither is proper for "restoration" purposes. A good hand rubbed linseed oilicon finish can get too shiny, it just takes more effort! I'm thinking wax may be a disaster in the long run.

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    Legacy Member Rowdy's Avatar
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    Military rifles were not supposed to be shiney - over the years RLO can oxidise and with use form a semigloss surface.

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