Help! Misaligned Pads on No 4.

[bigduke6]

** Must point out due to the fix below the rifle is now a .22, **

A few pics of a fix I did on my own No4, the rear screw hole had been drilled at an angle, and therefore the screw from a sarco mount went in at an angle, the rifle shot well but was never happy with it, as the pad fixing screws were never drilled there was hope, only problem was due to the angle the hole had to opened up then tapped to take a (IIRC) a 10mm bolt that was used as a plug, there was a bit more to it but you get the idea.

as it was,



Plugged



Tap used to make a slight indent on the plug ( as seen on above),



Drilled and Tapped hole, the outline of the plug gives an idea how far out the original hole was, although there is a small taper on the plug, (think countersunk screw)



The DRP Bracket in the white and ready for bead blasting fits like a glove,



Rear pad still holding out with the lock tight, and ready for the fixing screw holes to be drilled and tapped



Finished article, bead blasted, phosphated and ready for its Suncorite

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Roger Payne]

Cheers Peter. I feared the holes may have needed tigging, & then with the heat, the risk to the hardened area.......etc. Knowing that silver soldered mild steel plugs will do is useful & may come in handy one day.

[Peter Laidler]

Listen in chaps........ The front pad can be 1" higher and thicker providing that once it is correctly aligned for its l/r axis THE REAR PAD IS SEATED TO SUIT THE OPTICAL ALIGNMENT (of the tele) WITH THE MECHANICAL AXIS OF THE BORE. It really doesn't matter how wide or high the pad is - within the bounds of sensibility of course

After sleeping on it, a repair will be a doddle. Maybe not pretty but easily doable with the parts he has. Just my opinion as a time served apprentice

[bigduke6]

After looking at the OP's rifle again it looks like its not long been out the wrapper, (another mistake at some point) but thinking outside the box , I,d remove both pads and plug all the holes and finish as best I could, and return it to a No4 Mk2. It will never be a silk purse again but not far off.

Easy repair and if done correct you would hardly see any of the plugs, I wouldn't bother trying to save it as a T.....

For a T replica etc I,d start again but on an old Sporter or target rifle as the starting blocks...........

[Peter Laidler]

Good advice there Geoff. Then, when you get your ex sporter, get someone who knows what he's doing to set about it as per the details. There must be about 20 others on the forum that have followed them and have come up trumps.

[CINDERS]

Just from the depths of what brain I have still intact from fast motor bikes and loose lady's or is that loose motor bikes and fast lady's anyway I seem to recall the screws were slotted and the action and pads heated to the point the silver solder melted into the slot whilst the screw was being done up hence when it all cooled the screws were in there locked as tight as and not moving am I correct in this I cannot remember if it was in P L's book or another one I read somewhere in time......

[Roger Payne]

If you embark on another conversion I'd use a set of pads that Fultons make - they're superb. Not sure if the rear pad comes ready configured to the 'angled' receiver ledge as on your No4 Mk2, or with the radiused bottom to the pad as per most original 4T's (as produced by BSA), but if not it's get roundable.

[Seaspriter]

If you embark on another conversion I'd use a set of pads that Fultons make - they're superb.

When Brian Dick restored my Long Branch Sniper (which was missing the front pad), I had already sent him one which I had purchased from Sarco (probably the same supplier as Numrich). Brian's response was to reject it, and went back to the UK for one that was 100% MoD quality. Evidently the US supplied pads (which are probably sourced from Wayne in Taiwan, but not sure) do not have close enough tolerances.

[villiers]

If that´s the only probelm (`over to the left and low´) the Canadian scope mount could (maybe) solve the probelm. A sloped picatinny rail is not hard (or expensive) to get hold of. And windage can be adjusted to (almost) any extent. The mount is an exact repro of the official Can. Army model. You´d then not be limited to the original Brit. scope rings.

[Brian Dick]

The pad as supplied from Sarco was crudely made, Lord only knows where. It wouldn't even come close to fitting the original body and the screw holes didn't line up. Cholly Steen should be ashamed to flog such crap but I have a feeling he isn't!!