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Thread: How far should I disassemble my Enfield before taking it to the range the 1st time?

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  1. #41
    Legacy Member vintage hunter's Avatar
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    I reckon I'm a bit of a fence walker on this subject. I agree with the if it ain't broke don't fix it part but sometimes it's not possible to detect a worn, broken or otherwise malfunctioning part without disassembly. I have an Idian reworked No.4 Mk. 1/2 T that is a good example. On the outside it seemed ok, the forestock was tight and it shot fairly well till the barrel started to warm. This rifle was really dirty when I got it and in the end I had no choice but to disassemble it in order to get it cleaned up. When I removed the forestock the draw patches fell out on the bench along with the two pieces of wood between them and the butt socket. They had been broken out a long time and the best I can figure is that the Indian Bubba armourer did'nt take the time to proprely fit the patches and forced the forestock back on shearing the glue joints, dowels and pieces of the forestock in the process. If I had'nt decided to lump it and tear the rifle down to properly clean it I'd have never found the damage.

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  4. #42
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    Fellows: Again thanks for all of your input. This afternoon I began cleaning the rifle as best I can without disassembling it (other than removing the mag and bolt). I found that a very small pin (retaining pin?) missing that goes thru the end of the screw that secures the rear sight to the receiver. I only found it after brushing off the goop/dirt that was in the area. I started to wonder if the rear sight assembly has been removed/replaced for some reason. Any thoughts? I suppose I should find a pin to install.

    Also the forward sling band has been twisted as if something/one twisted the sling to an extreme for some unknown reason. Can I straighten this out or should it be replaced. Its marked F 53 which is the same date stamped into the reciever (12/53).

    The bore looks great.Thats a plus!

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    Having just read all of this for the first time about thirty minutes ago, my reaction a big "Hat's Off!" to ptf18 for taking such a reasoned and cautious approach to his new purchase.

    Another "Hats Off!" for putting up with the spirited discussion!

    These internets thingies can be useful, sometimes...

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    Quote Originally Posted by ptf18 View Post
    I found that a very small pin (retaining pin?) missing that goes thru the end of the screw that secures the rear sight to the receiver.
    It would be a very good idea to replace that missing pin as the back sight pivot isn’t actually a screw but rather an axis pin. As I’m sure you can surmise if the retaining pin isn’t replaced the pivot pin may eventually work its way out.
    As for the mangled sling swivel I’ve had a few that were a bit bent and had no problem bending them back into shape. I clamped mine in a vice and used an adjustable wrench with a few cleaning patches in the jaw so as not to mark the swivel.

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    Fellows: Heres another issue I have come across. After getting the rifle cleaned up I put a proper screwdriver (Chapman "hollow ground" set of drivers) on the screws I could see to ensure that they are tight. I found the forward screw that retains the trigger guard to the action, I think its refered to as a "king" screw, real loose.

    Before tightening it I thought I'ld ask if I should or is this screw suppose to be loose? On a "normal" rifle I'ld tighten it to 50-60 inch/punds of torque ( I use a torque wrench) but these "odd" Britishicon rifles I thought I better ask.

    Thoughts?

    ptf18

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    Given the loose screw, it might be worthwhile taking both trigger guard screws out and checking for the presence of the requisite washer and bushing under the front one.



    The screws should not be loose - and it's those other rifles that are "odd" here!
    Last edited by Parashooter; 05-30-2012 at 12:24 AM.

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    From my own experience, no hearsay:
    A hunting rifle, sold as in caliber .308 WIN, was actually in 30-06.
    (check that a round will actually load and extract before using the rifle)
    A Springfield `03, where Bubba had replaced the barrel one turn out.
    (A rough check of head clearance is a very good idea)
    A shotgun where Bubba had welded the front swivel to the bore, creating a weld spot inside the bore.
    (Check that the bore is clear).
    A Mauser that when cocked, fired as soon as it was moved, let alone knocked.
    (Check for safety-off fire and slam fire).
    Another with an extractor that was so worn that it did not extract.
    (check that a round will actually load and extract before using the rifle)
    A Gew88, pristine above the "waterline", and rusted to the point of being dangerous below...

    - Yes, I do strip them down before use.
    Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 05-30-2012 at 01:00 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick View Post
    From my own experience, no hearsay:
    A hunting rifle, sold as in caliber .308 WIN, was actually in 30-06.
    (check that a round will actually load and extract before using the rifle)
    A Springfield `03, where Bubba had replaced the barrel one turn out.
    (A rough check of head clearance is a very good idea)
    A shotgun where Bubba had welded the front swivel to the bore, creating a weld spot inside the bore.
    (Check that the bore is clear).
    A Mauser that when cocked, fired as soon as it was moved, let alone knocked.
    (Check for safety-off fire and slam fire).
    Another with an extractor that was so worn that it did not extract.
    (check that a round will actually load and extract before using the rifle)
    A Gew88, pristine above the "waterline", and rusted to the point of being dangerous below...

    - Yes, I do strip them down before use.
    Patrick
    You are an unlucky man, I shan't be asking you to choose my lottery tickets!

    But seriously, good and valid points. When I first shot my new to me No 4 (T) last Sunday, I had the knowledge that Dr Payne and Capt. Laidlericon had had their hands on it in the not too distant past
    Last edited by David TS; 05-30-2012 at 01:19 AM.

  15. #49
    Legacy Member Fred G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parashooter View Post
    Given the loose screw, it might be worthwhile taking both trigger guard screws out and checking for the presence of the requisite washer and bushing under the front one.

    https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../30v1w9l-1.jpg

    The screws should not be loose - and it's those other rifles that are "odd" here!
    Do the Long Lee's use washers on the front of the "King" screw? I've never noticed any before, Possibly they're caught snug up within the hole?

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    It's not, nor has it ever been a 'king' screw. It is and does exactly what it looks like. It is a front trigger guard screw or to be pedantic, the SCREW, front, trigger guard. In much the same as the rear screw isn't the queen screw, but the rear trigger guard screw.

    'King screw.............' who invents these names?

    If anyone's really interested, I 'll tell you how the Britishicon arrive at these sometimes seemingly wierd nomenclatures such as the missing 'PIN, retaining, pin, axis, backsight' mentioned above

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