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  1. #1
    firefuzz
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    Treatment for a slightly crippled 1905 Ross

    Greetings all. I've been sulking in the shadows here and studying for a while but now I'm the proud new owner of a slightly bubba'd 1905 Ross rifle in .303 Britishicon. After examination and remote test firing I've discovered a few problems I'd like your opinions on as to solutions.

    Firstly, here's the gun.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I've got/can get other pics as needed. The bore is in very good condition, no pitting or frosting but I believe the rifle has both an enlarged chamber and excessive headspace.

    Fired brass.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]



    As the pics show the case dimensions have changed rather dramatically in my opinion and the primer is slightly backed out. After finally running down my headspace gauges I confirmed it is excessive, the bolt readily closed on both the "field" and "no-go" gauges.

    So here's the question(s)...what are my options for this rifle? I'm in love with the straight pull action and want to shoot the gun, but am leary of doing so any more in it's present condition. The gun has already been altered so I'm not messing up a piece of history, just trying to put one back in service.

    I've read here that parts are virtually non-existant so finding a new factory barrel is out of the question. As I said earlier the bore on this on is very nice...do I have room to have the barrel set back and a new chamber cut on the existing one? This is my preferred solution.

    If not what are my options on re-barreling the rifle? Stick with the .303 or a wildcat based on that case? Maybe a .30-40 Kragicon? I'd really like your opinions and any information you care to share on this rifle.

    Thanks,

    Rob
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  3. #2
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I don't think you can chamber it to 30-40 because the cases resemble each other so closely. I used to load Kragicon in 303 dies. It worked perfectly. You can't change to that because it's 30 cal bullet will rattle down the barrel. When I saw the first pic of the case it looked like a rimmed 8MM. Definitely oversize. I would set the barrel back if that is OK with you. I think it's the only thing you CAN do. The gauges say it's finished. I wouldn't change caliber.
    Regards, Jim

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  5. #3
    firefuzz
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    That's kinda what I thought. Would you look at this pic:



    Looking at the area just in front of the receiver on the barrel, the area that has been turned down....is that factory or has someone else done it later? Do you think there's enough meat left in the chamber area to set the barrel back?

    Thanks,

    Rob
    Last edited by firefuzz; 09-18-2011 at 05:53 PM.

  6. #4
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    That's the way they are...were. All you're going to remove is about 1/8 " from the back to get one complete rotation of the barrel. Hopefully that's enough to clean the chamber up. It may give you a little trouble in the metal and wood fitment. Just have a look and calculate where everything will sit so you're not surprised.
    Regards, Jim

  7. #5
    Advisory Panel tiriaq's Avatar
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    Your rifle has the oversized chamber that was deliberately reamed into most Mk.III rifles and many Mk.IIs. The barrel contour in front of the receiver ring is normal.
    Set the barrel back one thread and rechamber? This is not easily done with a Mk.II. The quick twist left hand modified buttress thread makes such an alteration interesting, to say the least.
    A Mk.II barrel was intended to be removable without tools. Remove the barrel locking set screw, and you may be able to pop it off, remembering that the threads are left hand. Replace it by turning it in and tightening the lock screw.
    No easy way to correct the headspace.
    What gauges did you use? SAAMI or military?
    Last edited by tiriaq; 09-22-2011 at 06:31 AM.

  8. #6
    Advisory Panel smellie's Avatar
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    I have a couple here that do exactly the same thing.

    NO problem.

    The cartridges are RIMMED, so they can't go too far forward into the chamber and get you into REAL trouble. That's the problem with Rimless ammo. YOU have a situation which can be lived with.

    First thing, head to the store and grab yourself a couple of boxes of fresh .303 ammo.

    Second thing, stop at your local Dollar Store or its equivalent and head for the girls' department. Grab a container (usually in a blister-pack) of those silly little rubber bands that girls use for finishing off pony-tails or braids. Not the wrapped ones, but the super-el-cheapo ones that look like small, thin rubber bands. You put one of these onto the base of each of your cartridges, just ahead of the rim.

    When the cartridges chamber in the rifle, they will be held centrally with the chamber (ED uses a rubber O-ring to do this job: I'm just cheaper than him!) AND they will be held back against the bolt-face.

    Pull the trigger.

    Reload.

    Repeat 39 times.

    Are we having fun yet?

    I hope so!

    Your cases will come out of the rifle FIREFORMED to YOUR chamber.

    All you do now is NECKSIZE (or use one of those spiffy new Lee Collet Dies) your cases, reload them, and head back to the range again.

    Problems GONE.

    It works, friend.

    And, apart from ammo (which you would have bought anyway), the solution has cost you only one dollar (plus tax).

    Hope this helps.
    .
    Last edited by smellie; 09-27-2011 at 01:35 AM.

  9. #7
    firefuzz
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    Thanks for the info guys. I love this rifle and really want it to be a shooter. The reloading trick seems to be a pretty simple fix.

  10. #8
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    Because of the way your stock is cut forward of the band, you could splice it under the band and fit a nosecap. MkII nosecaps are available.
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