The Phoenix Patchett - No 2627

[Vincent]

Over the next several months I will be gathering and making parts for a semi-auto Patchett build.

Here’s the first parts of the journey… the magazine well and pistol grip.





I will be sending in the form & $$$ for the tax stamp to build an SBR (Short Barrel Rifle) on Monday. While I cannot build the semi-auto Patchett until I have the tax stamp in my possession, I can gather and make the parts I will need. When I receive the stamp I will build the gun.

Information

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[Peter Laidler]

Why only the two parts so far Vince? I was under the impression that you could just go out and buy the whole caboodle as a parts kit - with enough cut parts to make it yourself. That is a very early magazine housing, off a Mk2 or 3 and I'm not sure that you'll find the ejector for one of those easily. But there was a misc instruction detail in the NZ EMEI about converting the current/Mk4 one to fit. When the time comes, remind me and I'll dig it out!

[Vincent]

Thank you, Captain Laidler.

Mk4 Sterling parts kits are readily available here. Patchett parts are very far and few between. This is all I have been able to find so far.

Would a Lanchester ejector work?

I am planning on using a modified Lanchester barrel and making a front barrel support. Since this is going to be a closed bolt I doubt a Mk4 Sterling barrel support would last long. The heavier bolt and stronger springs would probably be too much for it.

[Peter Laidler]

Ah, the front barrel support on the L2 guns were silver soldered AND rivetted with 4x steel 'drive' rivets radially and additionally, they were retained frontally by the front casing being slightly rolled over. So all in all, they were very strongly secured within the casing. They would and could work loose and occasionally come out but I only ever saw a couple where they'd come adrift. Loose ones we'd simply rotate in a small spit, heat and allow the silver solder to re-take. The soft solder would occasionally weep out when we did it and if it interfered with the barrel seating part, that was the end of the line for the gun. But the slight bevel on the barrel helped cure this.

While i was forced to make a few Lanchester barrels for needy guns from Sterling barrels....., you are machining lanchester barrels to make Sterling barrels! Strange world!

Good thought about the ejector but I think you'd be better using the later, more robust Mk4 ejector. Just my view.

Good project. Keep us all up to date with a pictorial essay.

[browningautorifle]

This is going to be another interesting one to watch. With Peter, and some of the other here, it should be quite simple too. Keep us info'ed?

[Peter Laidler]

Just a thought here, but couldn't you US Sterling builders just copy the well tried and already approved Mk6 route to 'making' your long barrelled self loading carbines?

[Vincent]

Yes. The Mk6 clone is the most common Sterling build we do here.

Several companies sell Mk4 parts kits that we use along with the semi-auto conversion parts. APEX (Armory Parts Exchange) APEX Gun Parts has the best selection of Sterling parts. They will be adding more soon.

I plan to copy the Mk6 closed bolt system for this build. It will involve converting a Mk4 bolt and trigger pack. While I could buy them already converted, I get more satisfaction doing things myself. I learn and improve my skills with everything I build. I assembled my computer from parts… it’s just more fun for me than buying one already assembled, and it keeps me active.

I went to sleep last night thinking about your idea of using a Sterling barrel. When I woke up I had an idea. We will see if it works. If it doesn’t… Well, as they say, “Nothing ventured. Nothing gained.”

[Vincent]

Got started on the bolt and trigger pack modifications.



First step was to remove the fouling pin.



Removed the extractor.



This is part I don’t care for… but it’s best to get it over with.







Now it’s clear to everyone that this is going to be a closed bolt.

[Vincent]

On to some trigger pack modifications.

I will be welding a denial pad to the casing that will keep a full-auto trigger pack from easily being installed.



The denial pad will fit into the step where this little fella is.



I cut and drilled some stainless steel round bar to take its place.

[Vincent]

We can’t use the Mk6 inner selector to block the automatic position. Instead a pin is put through the trigger pack to block the inner selector from going into the automatic position. It’s then welded from both sides.