hey guys, first post here, little problem too.

[garand poobah]

first of all, this site looks like a dream come true for me.

i have always owned guns, lol, well, since i was about 5 when my pops got me a little 39a.

here recently, for some unknown reason, i have become completely smitten by the m1 garand. so much so that in the last 3 months ive bought 2, a mid 50's springfield, and a 1944 springfield.

here is the '44





this rifle sometimeshas a little feeding problem. the most common (maybe a half dozen times if i go shoot 100 rds or so) the cartridge will fail to feed, and will lodge kinda cockeyed with the bullet tip wedged in about where the red circle is in this pic.



upon the advice of the CMP, ive replaced the oprod, which actually passed the tilt test, but seemed to have excessive vertical play when observed from the side of the rifle, i think from quite a bit of wear on the little pads that keep it captured in the rails of the receiver(sorry for my lack of proper terminoligy, hope that made sense) it also didnt ride anywhere near center of the barrel.

the other thing i replaced on their suggestion was the ejector. it might be worth mentioning that the rifle always ejected toward about 4-5 oclock.

is there anything i might try before i test it again?

by the way, sorry for my first post being a technical problem, but some of you guys just seem to be, well, you know, smart, lol.

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[Griff Murphey]

The op rod should not be causing that problem. Now I'm taking it for granted you are using GI ball or equivalent? The only thing I can think of is that the follower is not pushing upward hard enough for the rounds to be shoved upward against the feed lips of the clip, thus keeping them aimed straight toward the chamber. This might be cured with a stiffer op rod spring. Gorgeous rifle, although clearly refinished. Is it a Special or what? CMP rifle, I take it? Welcome to the forum and best of luck getting this resolved. Gus Fisher might be able to comment with more authority on that op rod...

[dryheat]

I'd stab somebody(with a blunt knife)for that rear handguard. I have the same problem one one rifle, but the problem is worn oout barrel that doesn't provide enought "oomph" to get things to operate properly. That maybe why they recommended the oprod change. Just a guess. The oprod spring is probably a good place to start. That and of coourse, lots of grease.

[0311Shooter]

Don't know if it's the problem but just looking at the pictures it looks DRYER than the Arizona Desert.

If it's that dry internally, well you're lucky it even functioned at all. My procedure is to thoroughly clean a weapon just after firing, then lube it up as if it was heading right back to the range. All of mine sitting in my vault are ready to go right now, lube wise.

THAT rifle is NOT ready for the range.

[Calif-Steve]

White grease works wonders. Rifle is too dry! No doubt it. Barrel appears OK in the photo, but lube the rifle ASAP.

[Griff Murphey]

0311 and dryheat have made a useful observation... I agree the rifle looks very dry, and I should have noticed that. The action may have trouble getting forward "smartly" because of lack of lubrication. A slower shove forward on that top round might give it more time to assume an odd angle of approach to the chamber.

[garand poobah]

Gorgeous rifle, although clearly refinished. Is it a Special or what? CMP rifle, I take it?

thanks for the compliment. im sure it must have been refinished too. and yes, its a cmp rifle, service grade. i actually made the trip to the south store and picked it and another off the racks. it read about 1.5 on the muzzle, and practically no throat erosion. plus its all springfield, except for the trigger gaurd, which in winchester, and the windage knob, which is hra.

Now I'm taking it for granted you are using GI ball or equivalent?

yes, greek hxp, or handloads with m2 bullets and 46.5g of h4895.

The oprod spring is probably a good place to start.

actually, ive already replaced the spring with one from fulton armory

Don't know if it's the problem but just looking at the pictures it looks DRYER than the Arizona Desert.

lol, yes, i should have mentioned that the pics were taken after the rifles initial cleaning, which was a complete pulldown, cleaned, and then put back together. i keep it well lubed with mobil1 lithuim based grease where it slides, and mobil1 synthetic oil anywhere it rotates.

it was just very thoroughly cleaned for the pics.

i also failed to mention that ive tried different followers and bullet guides.

the reason i think the oprod could play a part is because the pads on the original were so worn that it would almost fall out on its own.i think it also had a tendncy to want to go up and out of the rifle during operation, almost escaping the guides on every cycle, although this is just a theory.

at any rate, the new oprod seems to be centered under the barrel much better, and has much less slop in the guides (although its black instead of the pretty zinc park like the rest of the receiver, but oh well, i just want a dependable shooter)

i will be trying it out with the new rod and ejector tommorow, thursday morning.

[Gus Fisher]

A number of things may be going on.

First, I would always check a rifle like this with a timing block to ensure all the parts are operating correctly. I realize you probably don't have one, so on to the other things.

On CMP rifles, I find that 40 to 60 percent of them need a new/replacement clip latch spring. That's a cheap part, but is very important to proper function. I replace about the same percentage of op rod springs,though that's in all grades. In the Field Grades and especially the Rack Grades, I have to replace a higher percentage.

It looks like you have a rifle with one of the new birch replacement stock sets. Field strip your rifle and look at the half round clearance cut for the tail of the clip latch. I'd almost bet you will see a small flat or square indent in the stock where the tail of the clip latch is hitting the stock. If that's true, shave the wood off until the tail of the clip latch clears the stock. You can put some grease on the tail of the clip latch, assemble the rifle, and work the latch in and out. If there is any grease transfeed, you need to shave a little more. This will cause the problem you mentioned and others as well. This is one thing I have to clear on almost every Dupage stock (CMP uses Dupage stocks) and Boyd's stocks that I work on.

[JimL]

You guys are alll wrong.

The problem is clearly evident in the first two images- he forgot to plug it in!



Just do what those guys said and enjoy.
jiml

[JustPassingThrough]

I had a Garand the other day that had the gas plug work loose and it short stroked and jammed exactly where you show every time. I tightened up the plug and the problem went away.

1. Check to make sure the Poppet in the gas plug isn't leaking due to being full of crap and gunk.

2. Make sure the plug is Tight.. 10-15 ft-lbs

3. Make sure your Gas Cylinder is in spec and not worn out. Since you replaced the op-rod it's likely not a worn piston.

4. Make sure your op-rod spring is new.