Help on No5 Mk1 flash hider...

[Brian Dick]

That's good. I reckon the price reflects. Most of the repros I've seen over the years were cast crap.

[me2]

My SS flash hider was still attached to a cut off barrel stub about 4" long and the rifling inside the stub was VERY good condition. Seemed a shame but I got what I needed. I read that SOG had the last of the Maylasian imports and many of them were badly rusted along with other problems and makes me wonder if SS bought up a quantity of those #5's which were probably too poor condition to sell as shootable/safe rifles. SS then may have parted them out. Simply lopping the barrel off ahead of the flash hider would be a quick economical way to market an otherwise rare and profitable item. I am only guessing at this scenario.

[Peter Laidler]

Slightly off subject maybe but when we were removing these things, Bren flash eliminators, gas cylinders etc etc. or anything with taper pins (they were all SAE/BA morse taper I seem to remember.....) we had short stubby hard drifts that we'd set up in a hydraulic press. Then when the pressure built up, instead of a xxxxing great thump with a lump hammer (we called it 'the reccy mechs way' as reccy mechs were the recovery mechanics whose smallest hammer weighed5 pounds and whose smallest spanner would be a 1.5" AF) the pressure on the short tough/hard drift would usually shift it a smidgin, break the taper lock and allow it to be removed with a slight tap. The fly press was bad news too..............

Just a thought...........

[rbrittne]

. Installing the replacement involves removing the rear sight,fit new hider on the barrel, laying the barreled action upside down on a sheet of glass (for flatness). Rotate the hider until the sight ears lay level on the glass, reclamp in vice then install the taper pins driving them in from the large hole side. I used masking tape to provide a witness mark on the hider body and the barrel to insure it did not shift while driving the pins back in. If the pins are removed correctly they can be reused. I'm not sure if american pins will be the equivalent of the originals. One more thing the hole locations from flash hider to flash hider can vary, the second one I replaced ($75 from Springfield) had a slightly greater distance between the holes. I had to enlarge one of the slots in the barrel using a small round jewelers file (file & test fit) untill the pin would go all the way in snugly. It can be done, but attention to detail is important. Good Luck!![/QUOTE]

---------- Post added at 11:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:57 AM ----------

Why use the glass to line it up if when you replace the pins it will just go back to where it was?

[Peter Laidler]

Just one thought there RBrit....... As one who has removed, refitted, reamed etc etc many, many of these, here's a question. If the taper pins on yours didn't align (and that's 100% of your attempts.....) what makes you think that the foresight block/eliminator will just align using the taper pins if you don't align the flash eliminator first? In MIGHT of course, but if it doesn't, by just a gnats knacker or so, then the foresight block will be off centre.

This is OK if you can then align the foresight block by slightly breeching up tighter or slacking back a tad. But I would align first THEN ream out THEN fit new pins. Just my thoughts.........

[Cdn303]

And considering the flash eliminator holds the front sight as well, you would want that lined up with your rear sight, more so then the previous flash eliminator's taper holes.