Smoothing up Garand trigger

[mack]

I am interested in finding out the particulars of making a match trigger setup for my latest M1 Garand.

My question is what must be done to modify a trigger group for a better pull-off and less trigger pull. I have built a new rifle whose main function will be that of a shooter.

I have not read any material on this process of modification, so don't be afraid that I may carry some prejudice to this task. I have the trigger group disassembled, in front of me, and am ready to work on this, if someone will direct me.

Thanks in advance to all who read this and to any who take from their time to share their expertise.

Information

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[LavaTech]

This may be helpful...M1 Trigger...it goes along with this...Accurize The M1 Rifle

[Ben Hartley]

Mack...

You might also want to get The M1 Garand Complete Assembly Guide by Walt Kulick with Clint McKee. A section on National Match triggers is included.

The book is available from: http://www.fulton-armory.com/ , among other places.

HTH

Ben Hartley

[goo]

in general,triggers isn't good things to mess with unless you know a lot of stuff.
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http://www.odcmp.org/new_forum/topic...TOPIC_ID=43970
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Accurizing An M-1 Garand - Part III
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What causes my M1 Garand to fire on auto? [Archive] - THR
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AGI - The M-1 Garand Trigger Job

[AKA Hugh Uno]

the NRA "Garand" booklet pub (the old one) has a semi-decent section on how to smooth up a Garand trigger. Smoothing will only take out any grittiness. It WILL NOT REDUCE PULL WEIGHT (although you might THINK the weight is less by a little bit).

Garands have a two-stage trigger that usualy is around 6.5 - 7.5 pounds TOTAL combined weight. This really ins't all that bad, although occasionally you will get one that is a little heavier.

To reduce trigger pull weight, YOU MUST reduce/hone the hammer hooks. Unfortunately, this is an also an excellent way to create a dangerous and somewhat hazardous trigger. There really isn't much more than a few strokes of an oilstone between a nice safe 4.75 - 5.0 trigger (I don't go below 4.75 total weight when I do trigger jobs) and a 3 pound trigger "machine gun" (and illegal for competition).

A good trigger job yields a nice 1.5 to 2 pound initial 1st stage slack pull, combined with a very crisp and positive 3+ pound second stage let off.

done correctly, this involves an initial "clean up" of all the typical mating surfaces to get things smoothed up. Then MANY disassemblies and reassemblies to get to the right point for total pull weight.

I have a couple triggers right now someone sent me, so might do some pictures (detailling the SMOOTHING process).

[rider]

I've had Fulton Armory do NM trigger jobs for me with good results. Some reputable Armorers say that TG/Stock lock-up tension is a critical factor when match-prepping a trigger which means that they would require the entire rifle to be sent to them for a NM trigger job. Good luck with your shooter.

[Neal C.]

You can have an excellent,light and safe trigger by installing a new post-war GI hammer and trigger and hammer and trigger pins. It is best to have access to several of each hammer and trigger to mix and match so that you can be sure you have a set that provides full trigger contact on both hammer hooks. Lightly polish the new park off the contact surfaces with a sapphire nail file only if you know what you are doing, otherwise just let them wear in. Install a David Tubb CS hammer spring and an old style hammer plunger with wings. Lube hammer, trigger and sear hooks with Birchwood-Casey Moly dry lube. You'll like it and it will be safe and last a long time.

[AKA Hugh Uno]

I honestly don't think you can get much below 6 pounds EVER with mixing/matching components only (from any era od pARTS).

In fact, I just completed a couple trigger jobs inclduding one UNIT which was from a collector grade HRA that was probably the nicest slickest trigger pull from any stock rifle I have ever run across (at least among those I have worked on). It was right at 6lbs total.

Likewise, I don't rely upon any lubes. done correctly, the trigger should be smooth and crisp dry as a bone (i do leave a little lube on the spring and inner housing to prevent rust).

[Sights]

Sir,

If I may give some advice. Performing a National Match Trigger Job should be taken slow, especially if you have not had the experience in armory work. It will take many sessions of disassembly and assembly. If you are following directions from some of the publications, please know that stoning the hammer is almost an art. IF you do it at the wrong angle or take too much material off, you will get a single stage trigger or a "tapper". At that point you no longer have a safe trigger and will not be able to predict when it fire. Another point, when I do NM modificatons to M1 or M14 triggers, I require to have the rifle to which the trigger assembly is to be mated. As you work on the trigger, you should consistantly install it in the rifle and check for pull weight. The lock-up tension does effect your trigger pull. If for some reason you would want an armorer to perform a NM trigger mod to your assembly, your rifle needs to go with it. Some say this is poopey, but I have been an armorer for over twenty years and I have learned from many mistakes.

The key is to take good parts, take your time and fit them together properly.Whatever you do, do not grease the hooks! Also remember, except for barrels and sights, there is no such thing as NM parts. We take good parts and perform National Match conditioning.

I have always said that I am an armorer, not a gunsmith. There is a big difference. If possible seek the advice of experienced armorers. They will be glad to help.

All my best,

Sights

[AKA Hugh Uno]

I agree Sights, and having the entire weapon isn't a bad idea at all, but I, personally, have never found much variation in trigger geometry (pull weight) between mounted and unmounted triggers. I certainly usually double check by mounting up a unit to one of my own "tight" bedded rifles, but since I virtually always stop honing at a smidge under 5 pounds (still plenty nice and light considering a 3+lb first stage take-up), there is much less danger (as in zero) of going "under" safe/legal pull weight.